Heater, 6V to 12V, Testing

Started by rooster, February 23, 2005, 12:20:22 PM

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rooster

I picked up a heater for gregs 49 Chevy. The guy said it was from a 37 plymoth, the core lays in the bottom, it has defrost on it witch is needed for the type off inspection he will need. Testing for leaks I guess I could use a garden hose. Can these small moters be run on 12V?

enjenjo

You can run it on 12 volts to test no problem. If you convert to 12 volts, you can use one of the old reostat type heater switches to drop 12 volts down to 6. If the motor is bad, you can replace it with a 12 volt motor.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

47 ragtop

The heater is actually a 42 to 48 chevy deluxe heater. I have one in my convertible and I use a 3 speed reostat type after market switch. It runs full 12 volts on high and the fan will turn som serious rpm. On the slower positions it will be resisted down below 12 volts. My heater has been in use for over 20 years and mostly been run on high 12 volts - drafty convertible- and has never given a problem. Good heater go with it.

rooster

Quote from: "47 ragtop"The heater is actually a 42 to 48 chevy deluxe heater. I have one in my convertible and I use a 3 speed reostat type after market switch. It runs full 12 volts on high and the fan will turn som serious rpm. On the slower positions it will be resisted down below 12 volts. My heater has been in use for over 20 years and mostly been run on high 12 volts - drafty convertible- and has never given a problem. Good heater go with it.

Looking abit closer its got a Chevy emblem on the front of it. I hooked it up to my battery charger and it runs on 6V but runs alot faster on 12V. I havent tested the core for leaks, it shows no signs of leaking in the past! As for the switch, im lost. Where did you get it?

enjenjo

You can get the switch at NAPA. It's listed in the catalog as a universal heater switch.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

47 ragtop

Go to a real parts house. There are many different brands like Cole-Herse and Standard brands that have many variations of these switches in their catalogues. Good luck finding a real parts house !!

DrJ

testing for leaks...
cut a small diameter (27"?) bicycle tire tube into a tube with the valve in the middle and  hose clamp it to the heater core and inflate it thru the tube's schrader valve to the 7 pounds you're likely to run for a pressure cap.
You don't want to run higher than that on that poor old tired core anyway, and besides, the tube will blow at higer pounds.
If it leaks, the hose/tube will deflate, become flacid?.
If it doesn't, cool, no leaks, but if it does carefully put water in the core without spilling any on the outside and repeat with the pressurized hose/tube, whi;e checking to see where the water leaks out.

(Everything I know I learned from someone else, including this. I just can't remember where I learned it.... :roll:  )

rooster

Quote from: "DrJ"testing for leaks...
cut a small diameter (27"?) bicycle tire tube into a tube with the valve in the middle and  hose clamp it to the heater core and inflate it thru the tube's schrader valve to the 7 pounds you're likely to run for a pressure cap.
You don't want to run higher than that on that poor old tired core anyway, and besides, the tube will blow at higer pounds.
If it leaks, the hose/tube will deflate, become flacid?.
If it doesn't, cool, no leaks, but if it does carefully put water in the core without spilling any on the outside and repeat with the pressurized hose/tube, whi;e checking to see where the water leaks out.

(Everything I know I learned from someone else, including this. I just can't remember where I learned it.... :roll:  )

Perfect! I know where to go for that tool, Ive been triping over it for about 4 years now.

As for the switch I looked at 1 today at NAPA. I tought it was abit pricy at 15 bucks. Ill look around no hurry.

For the ducts going to the window defrost intakes it looks like maybe a vac hose, probly have a half dozon of them around here somewhere. Might be a junk yard idem.

Thanks for the tip.

No worries

GPster

Does he really want a heater? I know a defroster is a necessity (see my new post) but back in the '50s and maybe clear up into the Larks, Studebaker had a dandy little defrost unit that was sepatate. Had it's own little water coil that was round and had a propeller fan that was in the center. If only a defroster is needed he might do just this. Also some later model cars had a rear window defroster with an electric heater in it that might pass inspection. Dan thinks he needs a heater in his and he's got an engine. Maybe he'll trade. GPster

rooster

Quote from: "GPster"Does he really want a heater? I know a defroster is a necessity (see my new post) but back in the '50s and maybe clear up into the Larks, Studebaker had a dandy little defrost unit that was sepatate. Had it's own little water coil that was round and had a propeller fan that was in the center. If only a defroster is needed he might do just this. Also some later model cars had a rear window defroster with an electric heater in it that might pass inspection. Dan thinks he needs a heater in his and he's got an engine. Maybe ##### trade. GPster

Can't say if he wanted one or not, I bought it with him in mind, but could use one in the 37 ford myself. Looks to be easy setup.The Stude setup your talking about would do the trick also. If we take it in for inspestion in the summer thay may not even check it. What kind of cars had ele rear window defrost?

GPster

Quote from: "rooster". What kind of cars had ele rear window defrost?
Maybe I went too far. Enjenjo suggested a rear window defrost unit out of a Monte Carlo one time for a project I was considering in that it had a blower and maybe I was ASSuming it had a heater too think that that was a long way to plumb hot water. Now to go out and shovel 4" of snow off the hood of the Ranger and see if there's a loose groubd wire on the blower motor. GPster

enjenjo

The Monte rear defroster doesn't have a heat coil in it, but my 2000 Bonneville does. Probably others too.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

rooster

Quote from: "47 ragtop"The heater is actually a 42 to 48 chevy deluxe heater. I have one in my convertible and I use a 3 speed reostat type after market switch. It runs full 12 volts on high and the fan will turn som serious rpm. On the slower positions it will be resisted down below 12 volts. My heater has been in use for over 20 years and mostly been run on high 12 volts - drafty convertible- and has never given a problem. Good heater go with it.

We found a new replacement heater motor 12V, thought I would pass this on! Thay also have them for 53,54 chevys (may fit other years)!


http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006011520512487&item=10-PM3515&catname=electric