Battery in trunk questions, please.

Started by 48builder, January 11, 2005, 12:38:06 PM

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48builder

I'm making some big progress on the '48, and I'm working on getting everythinig under the hood in place.

I realized I don't have a whole lot of room for the battery. On my '39 I put it behind the tire under the right fornt fender. What a royal PIA any time I need to get to it.

My wife wants a clean(er) firewall on this car, so I can't mount it high on the firewall. The PCM takes up room where it might go otherwise.

So, I'm thinking trunk-mount. I did that 25 years ago with my first car, and it seemed to work fine.

A couple questions. I used welding cable before, I think number 1 or 2? It was stranded so it was easier to work with. As I recall, I soldered a terminal ends on it, and put some shrink wrap over the ends. I figure I'll mount it in a box where my spare tire hole was. Make the box oversize and then have room to store tools, etc.

Now, should I spend the extra $$$ for an Optima battery, or just put a vent in the box and use a standard battery? What's the pros and cons?Should I route the cable along the frame rail, or try to put it inside the frame rail. I think I did that once before. Anything else I'm missing?

Thanks,

Walt
'48 Chevy Custom sedan in progress-Z28 LT1 drivetrain, chopped, shortened, too many other body mods to list
'39 Chevy driver

kb426

try Westco batteries. I have one in my Miata. Sealed like an optima, less money. As far as cables. Bigger is better depending on the starter draw. If your starter doesn't pull to many amps, you could use standard cable sizes and be ok. Westco has a website as well as dealers.
TEAM SMART

Bruce Dorsi

Quote from: "48builder"Should I route the cable along the frame rail, or try to put it inside the frame rail.

--------------------------

Hi, Walt!

In the above quote, you mention "cable."  ....I'd suggest you ammend that to "cables."  :D

....I'm not a fan of using the frame as a ground for the heavy draw of the starter, and I prefer to run a negative cable from a trunk-mounted battery, to a starter mounting bolt.  ....A smaller ground wire/strap from the engine to the body/frame should suffice for other grounding purposes.  

Welding cable works great, provided you can keep it from wicking moisure into the ends.  The solder and shrink-wrap you propose should prevent that.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

If being smart means knowing what I am dumb at,  I must be a genius!

n.c.rodder

Some guys swear by Optima batteries - I just can't justify the cost!! My battery is in the trunk, and going strong for over 6 years.

Now that I said that ,watch it take a dump this spring!! :cry:

Mike
Till we meet - On the street

reborn55

Haven't chimed in in quite a while, but Interstate make a sealed battery similar to the Optima. Not near as expensive.  Mine is mounted in trunk of my 48 Dodge.  2 years old--so far so good. :D

1FATGMC

I got a battery box and cable from Summit years ago and it has worked great on my pickup.

I'm getting to be a big fan of the Optima's and will end up with them in everything I own.  There are similar batteries, but still not quite the same.

Like Bruce said be sure and take care of the negative side of the battery.  I ran one heavy cable  down to a bolt going through the frame.  Also attached to that bolt is a large cable to the body and a large cable to the motor.  This allows me to have one cable off of the battery and then the others join it at the frame.  This setup has worked flawlessly all of these years with no starter problems.  I have headers and have a remote solinoid for the starter in the cab behind the seat where my main disconnect switch is for the 12 volt positive lead.  This along with a heat shield over the starter has taken all of the sbc starter problems and put them to rest.

Don't skim on this stuff and you won't be let down on a cold or hot day.

c ya, Sum

Ohio Blue Tip

Quote from: "n.c.rodder"- I just can't justify the cost!! My battery is in the trunk, and going strong for over 6 years.



Mike

SIX YEARS!!!  Better change that battery before spring or I'll see ya on the edge of the road!  Just use those $10.00 in pennies I sent you a while back and you will be able to get that Optima.  :P  :P
Some people try to turn back their odometers
Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.
I\'ve traveled a long way and some of the
roads weren\'t paved.

Ken

river1

Quote from: "n.c.rodder"Some guys swear by Optima batteries - I just can't justify the cost!! My battery is in the trunk, and going strong for over 6 years.

Now that I said that ,watch it take a dump this spring!! :cry:

Mike

i don't know about the rest of them but my local costco has OPTIMAs for under a hundred bucks. that puts them in the range of top diehards and the like.

later jim
Most people have a higher than average number of legs.

n.c.rodder

That $10.00 is long gone  - I'm sure it was turned in for beer money!

Mike
Till we meet - On the street

Ohio Blue Tip

Quote from: "n.c.rodder"That $10.00 is long gone  - I'm sure it was turned in for beer money!

Mike

I got the oil, but can I have my jar back? :twisted:
Some people try to turn back their odometers
Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.
I\'ve traveled a long way and some of the
roads weren\'t paved.

Ken

kb426

I checked Westco, they now cost the same as Optima.  NAPA sells an optima that is a different color that is a little less money.
TEAM SMART

jakesbackyard

This has been great info, as I plan on setting up my "A" with the battery in the trunk.

Has any one on here ever used or know anyone who has used the "dyna-batt"? It is advertised in many magazines. It is only 7" x 3" x 6.5" high and weighs 13.5 lbs.!  I know a rod builder using one for the first time in a BBC car, but has yet to fire it up and put it to any use. If they are any good I may have room up front for it.

They have a web site - performancedistributors.com

Thanks.
Jake

Pope Downunder

Quote from: "1FATGMC"Snip ...

Like Bruce said be sure and take care of the negative side of the battery.  I ran one heavy cable  down to a bolt going through the frame.  Also attached to that bolt is a large cable to the body and a large cable to the motor.  This allows me to have one cable off of the battery and then the others join it at the frame.  This setup has worked flawlessly all of these years with no starter problems.  I have headers and have a remote solinoid for the starter in the cab behind the seat where my main disconnect switch is for the 12 volt positive lead.  ...snip.
c ya, Sum

I have my battery underfloor, and have an isolation switch in the positive lead as well.  I welded a threaded stud to the chassis boxing for the earth point, and similarly to Sumner, use this as the common bridging point as well.  I used brass washers and nut on this stud, and 'silver-frost' painted the actual stud.

Sumner, can you tell me more about the 'remote solenoid'; is this the Ford style wiring?  Do you need to modify the Chev starter?

48builder

Should I consider running the cables in some type of conduit for pretection, or can I just clamp them to the frame rail?

Oh, man. I'm getting so close to firing this thing up. I haven't heard the engine run in 4 years.
'48 Chevy Custom sedan in progress-Z28 LT1 drivetrain, chopped, shortened, too many other body mods to list
'39 Chevy driver

Crosley.In.AZ

I run good sized cables from the battery to the starter and the engine on my Dodge & Falcon.  As mentioned .... think ground wires too!

I have Optima batterys in both daily driver pick-ups, the Dodge & Falcon
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)