Mysterious A/C service port problem, 1999 Grand Prixs

[idrivejunk]

I have two of the same car with the same issue.



Ever seen that before? I took the GT to a pro who asked me what sealant I had put in. I'd never uncapped the high side. He walked off and sprayed brake cleaner in the port and got the "black sealant" out and when I walked up two of them were staring at it puzzled. I looked in the port and see only smashed or broken brass, flat.

"Needs a line." and I and the car were dismissed.

Came home and uncapped the same port on the GTP. Switching to cartoon explanation now, just follow the numbered drawings-



Sentences followed by a question mark are my inquiries. :?:

Shown below are the low side schrader valve, the modified tool used to easily remove it, and the mysterious rubber piece from the GTP high side which can only be from a port cap.



I can depress the flat grey object visible in the port now, as though it is the pin in the valve. It is the same size as the hole above it with no space around it but if pushed down with pick, the pick slides off and the point gets caught between port wall and flat grey object by spring tension on the grey object. It can be pulled out though.

Thinking somehow the pin head must have magically mushroomed to a nail head when I picked out the rubber piece makes no sense. So I checked the low side valve core and see that is not possible and...

I better just stop writing. Theres no... It can't... They don't... All of them are... Why doesn't...

Yeah yeah rock auto shows all the lines cheap. But I can't even buy a valve core tool to fit the car, so why should I think...

Vehicle replacement seems the only road to conditioned air. I already went last year with no air and have a compressor bypass pulley on the GTP. And all I wanted was the low side valve replaced on the GT, then to charge it up. All I got is something no living soul has ever seen the likes of, it seems. No help, no matter, no dice. Everything gigantic and critical always gets crippled by things too small to see or grasp and thats something I can't deal with. If anyone can make sense of what happened, I'd be grateful if they was to explain it to me.

Thanks and sorry. Whichever applies.

[WZ JUNK]

I have used repair fitting that are similar to a ferrel (sp) for copper but these are for the aluminum lines.  Maybe use a repair section with the connector you need and splice it into your existing line.

[idrivejunk]

I have used repair fitting that are similar to a ferrel (sp) for copper but these are for the aluminum lines.  Maybe use a repair section with the connector you need and splice it into your existing line.

That appears to be an applicable solution, thanks!  

However, my research indicates the cost for pieces would be more than a new line. The concept of unions like that on the high side of an A/C system seems way too sketchy to me too, but I understand that anything I think must be disregarded because this is now and last week's gospel is this week's lie. I just dug out the 12v fan from el Camino days and will have to fashion a mount for that, rig up a couple of cardboard sunshades for above and beside me, and keep a roll of sweat rags in the car. Mom asked Friday what it would take to get AC in my car (hates sweaty hugs) and as it turns out, I have no answer. Its a dead end, I realize that. But I will be forever curious why the tool never fit and what happened inside the port. I don't believe the line on either car is damaged. I did see also the "easy-out" extraction approach but theres no pin to pull out first and on the GTP it would just spin the flat grey round object in the port.

The guy was right Friday. Needs a line. I just have to get over my need for answers, dump a grand and not be puzzled over not having AC yet. I know you know the feeling John and do appreciate you pointing me at something I wasn't aware of. The whole Dorman tray kit is $375, pieces are like $40. I'd need two plus a port and none of the lines are over $80 at rockauto. Question is, would a core removal / installation tool fit into those service ports? Who knows?  

[WZ JUNK]

Another option would be to have someone tig weld you in a section with a valve.  Find another line on a junker and cut that section out.

[kb426]

The local Carquest does hydraulic hoses so they have a crimper. They have the splices that John is talking about that will splice into the line. If the service port wasn't leaking and a new service one would allow filling, you could be on the road. That's assuming that there isn't another problem lurking under the hood.

[idrivejunk]

I think any junker will have the same problem. But again, that IS an applicable solution. Only person I know with a TIG welder avoids me like the plague though.    Absolutely will not respond to communication and outright ignores face to face contact.

[kb426]

Matt, Rock auto shows replacement valve assemblies that are threaded into the system components. Are yours removeable as a unit? I have no idea what yours are like.

[idrivejunk]

The local Carquest does hydraulic hoses so they have a crimper. They have the splices that John is talking about that will splice into the line. If the service port wasn't leaking and a new service one would allow filling, you could be on the road. That's assuming that there isn't another problem lurking under the hood.

The OReilly hub store here might make A/C lines. This is a hard line with tight curves around the port so I don't know if crimping would apply. I got lost on your third sentence there... a little. But the situation is it needs compressor replacement. Since I am already all in, might as well explain that too.

Driven the GTP since November of 2013 and the GT since July of 2009. Both leaked slowly at low side port, both kept me cool for years with a can of ACpro a year. The GT was wrecked, had infrequent usage and the leak worsened. The GTP got better.

Flash flooding resulted in wet clutch one day and that killed that. With monumental hassle and against the advice of the parts lady, I changed the hub assembly. The day the warranty was expired, the hub caught fire. The AC diode in the electrical box also burned to a crisp. All overwith before I could get off the street with interior and wheelwell full of smoke, and no smoke or wobbly pulley just quiet idle when I raced to pop the hood and look. Drove home.

Got out salvage compressor from the 2002 I flipped. Broke it. Broke the one on the car, too.

Tied compressor to frame (still full of freon) and installed Dorman's compressor bypass pulley. Carved the burnt diode out of the relay box. Drove that way for a long time now. But the GT only had a low side valve leak so I thought it would be wise to tackle that one first. Then I ended up here.

Again, thanks and sorry Bill. But why on earth would the tool never fit? That bugs me durn near as much as sweltering in traffic. As you guys and your experience have just shown me... what I am worried about just doesn't matter. It can't be known anyhow. Its just theres so incredibly many cars out there same as mine but my issues are unheard of so that puzzles me. :?

[idrivejunk]

Matt, Rock auto shows replacement valve assemblies that are threaded into the system components. Are yours removeable as a unit? I have no idea what yours are like.

I want to yell "Bingo!" so bad  

The port looks to me like it unscrews from the line. Which would make complete sense and be a three run homer at least, for me right now.

But! The flats on the port are neither metric or standard. No metric half size tools here to try. I figured before I get out the adjustable wrenches I better seek wise counsel. I will go get a side view pic of the port, the day is shot anyhow. I had to turn off the phone and really focus my weekend's energy on this just to find the stone wall to bang my head against and here I still am doing it.  :(D)

[idrivejunk]

[kb426]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3920700&cc=1357130&pt=6992&jsn=8&jsn=8

[idrivejunk]

Sweet bingo  What search term did you use, or what is it called?

I will try to unscrew it.

[kb426]

I use Rock Auto's catalog. On their website, when you click on catalog, it has a drop down with every manufacture they carry. From there you choose year and model followed by engine.

[idrivejunk]

I know. It takes 20-30 sec after tapping screen for me to find out if I tapped the screen.  

There has to be a part name you clicked on though. I will have to reattempt. Did not see any part titles that sounded like that part when looking up hoses but I was looking up hoses.

A deep 16mm goes down over the whole thing, feels like it may fit the bottom. No 16mm wrench here. No room for an adjustable wrench for the top part without disassembly its too late in the day to start now. It is not a 5/8" and is between 15 and 16mm and as soon as an adjustable wrench goes on it will be none of the above. Channel locks with no backup wrench is as close as I can get here. Unless I dremel out a 15mm open ender and sneak up on it. There may be a 16mm wrench in my box at work. I only have a 16mm socket because Mercedes are in my past, sets skip 16 usually. There has to be eating and bathing before bed so the party must end now, for today. Its supposed to be cool tomorrow but hot again later in the week. I don't see me having energy to mess with it until next weekend.

Thanx again, KB and WZ.  

[kb426]

Pontiac- grand prix-heat and air conditioning-ac compressor service valve