welding brazing advice needed

Started by chimp koose, February 25, 2021, 10:57:28 PM

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chimp koose

so tonight i made 2 pieces to replace the welting edge on my model T rad shell . They stick out the same as original and go up behind the 1/4" drop down ledge of the original shell. Made of a scrap from my door repair panels so 18 gage I think. Question is how should I attach them ? The rad shell is a nickle plated brass piece that I am going to paint body colour when done. I am thinking silver solder would be best? If I can not find any then what . I dont think epoxy like JB weld would hold but what do you think? I will have 2 horizontal bars from cowl to rad shell that mount down the sides below the repair to hold the hood sides and 1 piece hood with mini bear claw latches likely , so the ledge will not hold substantial weight/pressure . Any opinions/experiences that you could share?

idrivejunk

More'n one right way to skin a cat.

I vote stainless countersunk head solid rivets. Or a bent tab and slot arrangement with a rivet or two at each end. No experience, only imagination. :)
Matt

enjenjo

Silver solder should do nicely. Most plumbing stores carry it along with the flux. Since this is pretty thin, you could hold the repair piece in place with a couple countersunk hollow brass rivets. Put some flux in before you set the rivets. Clean as much as possible. Silver solder will stick to both brass and nickel as long as they are clean. You might try some of this if you can find it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/SOLDER-IT-Silver-Bearing-Solder-Paste-SP-7/300916097
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

chimp koose

Going with the silver solder . I can put the heat to the back side of the steel and it should carry the heat to the brass. If I do it the other way I would worry about melting the brass with too much heat.I am probably going to add more sections of this together to strengthen the welting edge into something that could support a bit of weight so that the outer ends of the horizontal supports from the cowl can weigh on this if needed . The sections to be added later will go from the frame up to the ones I am installing now .

Bruce Dorsi

Quote from: "chimp koose"Going with the silver solder .

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/solders-flux/1-oz-hi-force-44-wire-sku080649001-709-2884.aspx

I used this solder to repair a stressed part of a  shotgun.  ...SAE 660 Bronze soldered to steel.  

I was impressed with the solder's low melting point and strength

You may find something similar from local sources.

Ironically, the Comet flux cost more than the solder.
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If being smart means knowing what I am dumb at,  I must be a genius!

chimp koose

If I do this right , the front edge of the  hood will just rest on the ledge I am repairing but it will have the weight of both hood sides supported by the braces that will go from cowl to rad shell. I will have a support worked into the rad shell and attached from the frame rails to connect to the braces at that end. Likely going to latch the hood on both sides along the front edge of the braces with the use of mini bearclaws. Might try activating the bearclaws by use of a dummy rad cap /lever  , or through something in the original crank hole.

idrivejunk

I am T ignorant but was just looking at shells and not knowing if you can use the spot where a Ford script was or if you are using a T shell or which one for sure... thinking if there was an A style blue oval there it could be set up as a stealth latch. Where you push in on the F end and pull on the d end or vise versa.

That would be cool, a flip out thing always wows. 8)

Also was thinking if you ran cables inside those braces if they are like small square tube, you could have an inside release.

If there was a grille mesh instead of rad there, a little indent at the top of that could be for a finger and have lever behind it.

Just "shotgunning" thoughts at you. I like the crank hole idea better than a dummy cap just for that. Just some sort of pull knob at the crank hole sounds slick. Having one hidden handle for each latch might be good too depending on your needs.

I never done enough soldering to speculate. Be slick to just stick em that way though. Clean look with the solder.

One piece hood means opening at front, and with hood sides as seperate panels, correct? I'm not real up to speed. :)
Matt

phat46

Quote from: "Bruce Dorsi"
Quote from: "chimp koose"Going with the silver solder .

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/solders-flux/1-oz-hi-force-44-wire-sku080649001-709-2884.aspx

I used this solder to repair a stressed part of a  shotgun.  ...SAE 660 Bronze soldered to steel.  

I was impressed with the solder's low melting point and strength

You may find something similar from local sources.

Ironically, the Comet flux cost more than the solder.

Silver solder is incredibly strong. All this talk of silver soldering brings back memories of when I worked at the steel rule die shop. For several years I silver soldered as many as 1000 joints a day. Got pretty good at it, either hand on the torch, any position and fast. People used to watch me and ask how I got so good. I would tell them after the first 5000 it gets easy. The parent company sent their expert to show us how to do it. He said you can make the solder follow the flux, by capillary action, anywhere, except up. I showed him how to make it run from the bottom of the joint to the top, handed the torch back to him and walked away. Later my boss called me in the office and asked why I left the "lesson". I told him I had taught the expert all I could. 😄 Those solder joints took a huge amount of pressure on them in the auto plants cutting interior parts in a press and very rarely failed, I saw the steel rule roll over and not break the solder joint.

enjenjo

When I am making hose fittings that are not available, I silver solder them together. EFI fuel adapters, AC fittings, there is even one on my shop compressor.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

chimp koose

I used to silver solder carbide cutters to mild steel blanks for custom lathe and milling cutters .Once made a carbide like that to re spline axles . More than once i would smash the cutter and the only carbide left was what was still hanging on to the silver solder. Did a little research and one type of silver solder has 70,000lbs of tensile strength. IDJ I would like to make a hood release that I can do from in the car or from the front. The hood will be hinged at the cowl and open gator style . If I hinge it at the rad end it will get in the way of working under the hood as I will be full fendered. I would like to have some kind of hood ornament in place of the rad cap as I dont want the hassle of filling in the hole there and think it would be cool to have it open the hood . If I do that I would have the crank hole to put a back up camera into to maybe see traffic lights better. Put the screen above the rear view mirror. I could also use one of those fresnel lenses that give an angled view of traffic lights but I would like to have a clear dash.

chimp koose

Used silver solder on the grille shell today and it worked fine . Rad shell has more rigidity to it now as well . A few small areas on it that need attention as the entire lip and shoulder was missing in places but more solder should fix it fine . Had to use a propane torch to heat as I did not have small enough tips for the oxy unit . :D Thanks for the advice and encouragement .

enjenjo

Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

RipVW

Being able to Solder both wires and plate is a skill worth learning as one never knows when that skill will be needed.  I soldered daily in my old job and it is fun. Soldering plate or strips of material is also a lot of fun..  I learned Soldering through classes in the mid 70's and I find it fun and relaxing. I had an old friend teach me how to body solder or "Leading in" and I love to practice the craft. Keep up your skills and it really pays off when you need it.  8)