Model A job

[idrivejunk]

Gee, I've done stuff like that once upon a time, in my younger days.

Did you make those doors flush? How?

[idrivejunk]

In the interest of avoiding Model A faux pas (distasteful or amateurish ways or mods). do you guys have a suggestion for a helpful forum or two to search? I think I need to have a purist resource to go along with rodder resources.

[Canuck]

In the interest of avoiding Model A faux pas (distasteful or amateurish ways or mods). do you guys have a suggestion for a helpful forum or two to search? I think I need to have a purist resource to go along with rodder resources.

A couple of helpful Model A specific sites that I found helpful:

http://www.fordgarage.com/  

http://www.abarnyard.com/

I`ll back out at this  point as a amateur with amateur ways.



Home built, all steel from chassis to top

Canuck

[idrivejunk]

I will sure investigate those links. And I know we'll not please everyone. But the way I find my personal opinion is to sift through those of others and form my own. So if I ask for suggestions, they can be high road or low road. I just figure I'd be slaughtered at the hokey board or whatever.

Wondering if when I make patches, if it is faux pas to use 20 gauge. We only keep 18. Thats an example of a question where I know the low road answer but wonder if theres a high road. Stick around if you can stand me, Canuck. I'll need help.

It didn't take long to toss my idea of making a whole side and cutting it for skin patches. If somebody says something is too difficult, I try to listen.

Some folks cry sin at suicide doors, or flush ones. The Model A world is strange and new to me.

I am liking the right side better its fairly cherry but that roof side is hamburger! This is why I'm digging.

[kb426]

The flush mount door has been very common through the years. The only thing I was around that we did that on was a roadster so it was simple. I believe you have said this before and I have read it often: use metal of the same gauge as the parent metal for less warpage. Model A's are pretty thick as I remember. The last one I worked on was 1979. I had a 29 roadster body and 32 rails that I sold very reasonable to fund the T/F car.

[Carnut]

No flush mount doors with us, that was a car show thing.

All sheetmetal tops with sheetmetal from Boeing Surplus thru the Yard Store.



Looks like Starbirds Ala A had the hardtop conversion on it.

[GPster]

You've already up-graded the project by putting it on jack stands. If you're going to re-skin the door that should give you a fair amount of like gauge, like temper metal from the left over pieces of the old door skins. You might look at Brookville for replacement stamped pieces. Back in the old days there was an outfit called Gaslight auto parts and I thought their replacement panels were acceptable. The talk about body panels cracking because of wooden mounts rotting. Keep that in mind when making a floor to fasten to that new frame. GPster

[kb426]

^^^^
Neat pic, George.

[idrivejunk]

Hey I wondered about the hardtop thing.

Shop consensus is all flushing work is done on the body side.

I read that the metal varied, mostly 19 gauge but sometimes more like 18. They rolled their own I reckon.

I have seen every person that does it mess up every lower door skin patch that I've seen. (decoder ring that) The steel goes ape on that type of door shape and the older the worse it is. Good guys mess it up. I don't guess I've done one like that.

Major Barfout on the top of the rear roof panel, pics don't show that. But the tail panel is pretty. And the right side is nice other than the roof side.

[idrivejunk]

You've already up-graded the project by putting it on jack stands. If you're going to re-skin the door that should give you a fair amount of like gauge, like temper metal from the left over pieces of the old door skins. You might look at Brookville for replacement stamped pieces. Back in the old days there was an outfit called Gaslight auto parts and I thought their replacement panels were acceptable. The talk about body panels cracking because of wooden mounts rotting. Keep that in mind when making a floor to fasten to that new frame. GPster

I'm looking to go hog wild with tubing like on the Catalina but not just floor. The B post needs to be more substantial with hidden suicide hinges. I'll just use cold rolled 18 gauge from across the highway and grind it plenty!  All the panels are about as thick as typing paper a foot below the body line at the door handle.

I asked if we get a trunk lid or convert rumble seat lid. Checking.

[idrivejunk]

Two questions-

Have you guys got any thoughts on the use of plywood in the floor?

When you are butt welding your sheetmetal seams, is a gap between panels or no gap preferred?

[UGLY OLDS]

Hey Matt ...lookit your PM's ....

Bob..

[enjenjo]

Two questions-

Have you guys got any thoughts on the use of plywood in the floor?

When you are butt welding your sheetmetal seams, is a gap between panels or no gap preferred?

There are two schools of thought on wood floor boards. On one hand they make good heat and sound insulators, on the other hand the body is much less rigid. I tend to use metal floors, and  insulate them.  For removable floor boards, wood with a metal liner underneath.

I have had better luck with the metal butted when welding thin material, but stretching the welds often during the process while they are still hot. I am by no means an expert. I tend to blow through the metal with a gap. At times I will use a copper backing plate with gaps.

[idrivejunk]

Frank, I have always had best luck leaving a cutoff wheel gap but thats contrary to what experts do, they butt it like you. I did that on the 33 roof and it bit me where I didn't leave a gap.

Our chassis guy wants metal floor then plywood then metal again and welded in. I say yes to all that except lets only screw the top metal on and lets paint the wood and inside the cavity. I presume seam sealer or a sheet of foam or sound deadener would prevent rattles. Maybe a5tach the wood to the top metal layer.

The guys have the Butler sitting in the Catalina and theres not enough room for a regular air cleaner. Hood hits. I am thinking hat for the TB but some low profile arrangement might work. Thats why I was trying to set the engine farther back, so crank pulley will clear the rack. Sits tight over the rack now. I told them I built body drop into it so shim away. Doors just click shut with latches in. Pic with hood on looks cool but I'll post it later on that thread.

[idrivejunk]

I put a cinder block inside to sit on... is that a faux pas?

I ain't worth a flip at taking Model As apart, I know that. Wood in the B pillar is screwed on from outside the pillar before quarter goes on. Nifty. Left roof to quarter joint molding thingy is all loose but can't pull it out. Had to just move on. Starting to sketch a mental picture of the framework  in the car and maybe a support structure for the build pieces to fasten to and measure out. At bottom right the 1 1/4" tubing can be seen, it goes where the pillar wood was but will stick out unlike the wood. For the new hinge pockets.





Straightened this in the AM. Weld up original split later. Straightening is good therapy even with a bum hand.