Model A job

idrivejunk · November 02, 2018, 07:41:11 PM

It is good to have seen guts of one before evaluating another. Seems like the overlaid quarter patches are so often seen, and I would bet the reason why the old metal is left in is because theres no other solid place to support the body. It just made sense to me to blow it apart for total control in this case of many mods.

idrivejunk · November 05, 2018, 07:10:15 PM

kb426 · November 05, 2018, 07:49:20 PM

Another exercise in patience!

idrivejunk · November 06, 2018, 10:09:41 PM

Reached a point where I felt ready to squish right door gaps to under a quarter inch so out came metal yardstick and felt pen-

That background scrap pile does prove handy, this one was perfect just folded in half to add trimmable meat here-

idrivejunk · November 06, 2018, 10:23:07 PM

After more fine tuning, I am satisfied... but now that I study pics, the quarter ought to come straight down. Door too, just a smidge. I'll make a flange between hinges then quarter can come off to work on inner structure and what-not.

Made these tabs to secure roof side bows to body structure over the windshield. They rest on the B pillar top crossmember farther back, for now. i've unscrewed the roof panel so it can float. In the last pic you can plainly see what I'm up against on the roof panel, and look at those wonky roof sides... the angles!

I'm up for it.

But you want it when? :?:

idrivejunk · November 08, 2018, 11:29:56 PM

I am pretty much still where I (thought I) was last post.

After reviewing pics, it was obvious that the door needed to come straight down one step, and the quarter two. Hope you can see it too, but am glad nobody freaked. I set about correcting that.

In doing so, things just kept getting worse. My nerves are shot from pillar fuss already, a dozen times over. I handle complex tasks but it isn't terribly graceful. Muttering, cussing, barking at passers-by, and striving to maintain an even keel as the clock ticks on and on. And on.

Qtr height being too high, I went right for the guesswork patch as the culprit. Cut tacks, lower quarter. Establish revised bottom bend location at pan, to match that of other side. Try on. Hmm. Again, worse.

WTH? Oh. Looked underneath. Angle of bottom bend was off, with rear patch corner pushing pan down past rocker at rear. OK.

Then I turned my head and coughed. To see that the door's rear bottom corner was also down past rocker, only at the rear. *.

So that means the caster angle of the right A pillar must not be right. Or something.

Rechecking, I had diamond. One body side ahead of the other, over the rocker. Cut tacks, correct, re-recheck. Study left side harder.

Oh, dread... I'll need to tilt the A pillar now. Something moved during the process and I didn't catch it. Alright then, once more. From scratch and perfect this time....

I will gladly spare you the rest but wanted you to have a light whiff of it. Bamfoozled, I worked through it all at the expense of another dab of sanity.

Now the door has gaps again, and adjustment, and if the whole body sat on the shop floor I believe whatever gap exists between panel bottoms and shop floor would be consistent with the exception of the tail where I haven't fine tuned a thing.

NuRelics scissor type power regulators came today. Now I can bear claw the right door just under the glass travel zone. My ideas zonked so I'll have to change the other side.

Showing right side panel bottoms lined up at rocker bottom or very slightly higher-

Random fuss time pic with quarter off, doing the structure shuffle thrash.

That roof just might put me in a straight jacket, its like a tater chip off the car.

And this? Showing the quarter front flange, which after the correction won't fit. This might be tougher than hitting 200 in a 69 GP... gigantic efforts, minimal gains. Working on skins will be a slice of heaven after the geometry test this has been. But A and B pillars had to be in and right on first.

idrivejunk · November 09, 2018, 11:00:50 PM

Second attempt at latch location, as advised. Too low for me. Door shell was pooched out and welded where that crack is, near the bottom regulator screw. So I don't know if I'll need to notch that lower brace.

Rochie · November 10, 2018, 08:15:52 AM

IDJ, why not put the bear claw in the A pillar and the striker in the door.
That worked out really well on my 29. That way you by pass the problem with the glass getting in the way

idrivejunk · November 10, 2018, 10:21:37 AM

Quote from: "Rochie"IDJ, why not put the bear claw in the A pillar and the striker in the door.
That worked out really well on my 29. That way you by pass the problem with the glass getting in the way

That was my very first idea. Mike shot it down saying way way too many problems would be caused.

moose · November 11, 2018, 11:58:36 AM

What company are the power window regulators from? Another advantage to placing the latch in the A pillar is removing the snag factor from the latch pin.

idrivejunk · November 11, 2018, 11:45:07 PM

Quote from: "moose"What company are the power window regulators from? Another advantage to placing the latch in the A pillar is removing the snag factor from the latch pin.

NuRelics. I thought so too, especially with it so low.

idrivejunk · November 12, 2018, 08:26:50 PM

Today while doing more left door stuff, I started putting back the stuff I cut out for my latch experiment.-

Per the supplied template, one bolt hole for the track ends up in a stepped area plus my brace needed a notch there for it so I made it flush against the shell with this little bumpout.-

End of the day, it had evolved thusly-

Top right, still working on it as fill-in while other spots cool. Bottom left, that bottom piece is 1x2 ripped down the side liks the 1x3 above it. Center stage is a mighty effective but puny 18 ga angle strip with bead. I don't think the big 16 ga reinforcing plate will be necessary but a guy could easily add panels to close off the door shell for less noise. Not anticipating any additional bracing at the front of the door but when the door skin is off I may add an "intrusion beam" to the shell, up higher. Mike scoped out the latch and cardboard glass and suggested nipping the bottom rear corner of the glass in order to move the latch higher possibly as much as 1 1/2". I can do that but to cut it nice and close I'll have to do some frigid window fuzzy hunting in the parts stash. :-}

idrivejunk · November 13, 2018, 10:23:27 PM

Good visit with the customer today.

Sitting on a 5" tall wood block over the rear seat brace, he's just right. I finished this phase of left door and started on the right today.

Figured I'd snap a couple from out back, too.

idrivejunk · November 14, 2018, 08:16:53 PM

Latch and bumpout for regulator track are left to go...

... but I felt like welding up the inside of the pillar so it would hold still-

...and getting back on track with the patch. Just going to live with that big gap and be diligent with planishing. There was one too many shuffles but its gonna live.

And theres the quarter flange in need of a remake as well. All this in preparation for removing the quarter to finish the pillar. Almost there.

idrivejunk · November 15, 2018, 08:05:14 PM

There will be more planishing and touch up when the quarter is off. Access is poor at front and rear. Also today I mocked up the right door glass (via CAD) and created more regulator clearance as needed at the top hinge pocket's nut plate and rear bolt. Final latch position was agreed upon so maybe soon... blasting, chop work, and door skin and bottom panel replacement can begin.