Glue in Windshield

[50 F1]

Working on a 37 Plymouth. Originally it had a crank out windshield. I am not going to use that. I would like to do the glued in style with the rubber bead/seal that covers the seam between the glass and the body.

This is straight glass. One piece.

I wouldn't mind having someone do it but I am open to do it my self.

Being this car had a crank out windshield the pinch weld is 1" back from the outside of the body. I need to make a spacer to weld in to take up some of that gap so once everything is installed the rubber trim will be level with the glass and the body.

I'm looking for advice on this whole process.

How close to the should I make the spacer to the edge of the body. I have to allow for the thickness of the glass and the urethane.

If anyone has been involved in this I could use some guidance.

Thanks allot
Mike

[chimp koose]

I asked this same question last year and got some great answers . unfortunately I somehow lost the favorites list that I was saving the responses on and am wondering the same thing as you . Enjenjo and idrivejunk had great responses as did others .

[idrivejunk]

In my mind, the first step is to select a seal with the look you want. Just bulk stuff on a roll that can be stuck to the glass itself.

Here, I found our discussion on page 4 of the 59 Catalina thread-

http://www.roddingroundtable.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14168&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=60

[idrivejunk]

If your 37 Plymouth has a 1" deep place for the glass, thats enough room you could bend a 1" strip down the middle 90 degrees then with a stretcher, shape it to fit inside the opening and plug weld it there, leaving a half inch of depth and creating a glue flange a half inch high. That would leave a ditch behind the glass but I bet that would look fine with weatherstrip just stuffed in it. Theres many ways to skin the cat. Read through and holler back.

[enjenjo]

There is no need to weld in a new flange. You can get Butyl tape that will stick to the original pinch weld to build it out to where you want the glass to set.  Once you have the tape installed in the opening, you can  run a bead of urethane glass sealant on it, and install the glass. You may need some temporary spacers to hold the glass in position until it sets.. Then run a bead of urethane in the groove for the rubber/plastic trim, and install the trim.

The glass has to have a primer on it for the urethane. You tape off the area where you want the primer, brush on the primer and remove the tape. The primer is the black area you see from the outside of the glass that makes it all look even.

You will have a gap on the inside between the glass and the garnish moldings. You can modify the moldings to take up the space, but do not let them touch the glass. You can also cut down the fuzzy side of Velcro  and install that in the gap.

[idrivejunk]

There is no need to weld in a new flange. You can get Butyl tape that will stick to the original pinch weld to build it out to where you want the glass to set.  Once you have the tape installed in the opening, you can  run a bead of urethane glass sealant on it, and install the glass. You may need some temporary spacers to hold the glass in position until it sets.. Then run a bead of urethane in the groove for the rubber/plastic trim, and install the trim.

The glass has to have a primer on it for the urethane. You tape off the area where you want the primer, brush on the primer and remove the tape. The primer is the black area you see from the outside of the glass that makes it all look even.

You will have a gap on the inside between the glass and the garnish moldings. You can modify the moldings to take up the space, but do not let them touch the glass. You can also cut down the fuzzy side of Velcro  and install that in the gap.

This guy ^^^ must know what the area looks like, I do not. Never done one myself so my words are pure speculation. For all I knew theres no existing sheetmetal flange. My GP has butyl plus urethane holding the bedded glass in though. That works. Wise to mention the glass primer too.

[UGLY OLDS]

Hey Mike .... You just gave me a REAL memory test ......When we did the Kidd's '37 Dodge, we looked into replacing the "swingin' winder".....   Before you get too far involved, look at a windshield weatherstrip for a '38 Dodge ......I'm pretty sure the opening is the same as '37 & the '38 has a fixed glass....

But think of what you will be missing......Enough wind coming in to relocate everything inside the car...The crank & "tape" mechanism that is worth it's weight in gold ....The crank handle that ALWAYS rattles ....Trying to find a useable windshield frame AND the little trim clips to hold it together....

And best of all....The "drain" system that you need to install & maintain.....( That's what the two little tubes in the bottom corners of the window opening are for ...   ) ....

 ALWAYS keeping a paper cup & towels under the seat in a attempt to keep the dashboard dry ...    :oops:

Been there ...Done that ...... :oops:    

Bob....

[50 F1]

Wow!!  Thanks for all the replys and info.  
 
I started making the spacer. cut a strip  broke it 90* and shrunk and stretched it to follow the car but I just didn't know how wide to make it because I didn't know how thick the urethane needed to be.  So I moved on to a different project.  
 
Enjenjo I'm glad I moved on to a different project.  I'm going to do it the way you described. So once the windshield is in place and cured good you take more urethane and put it in the slot that was left between the glass edge and the body and push the rubber trim in? Probably put tape over it. Let it cure and it will stay?  
 
Ugly Olds thanks for all the pros & cons of a crank out windshield I got a kick out of that. I was working on it and looking at those two holes in the lower corners I figured they were drain holes but until I read what you said I didn't realize that the water would drain into the car!!  
 
Idrivejunk thanks for the info and the link.  
 
CK I will keep you posted on how it goes. It might be a while.  
 
Thanks

[enjenjo]

Wow!!  Thanks for all the replys and info.  
 
I started making the spacer. cut a strip  broke it 90* and shrunk and stretched it to follow the car but I just didn't know how wide to make it because I didn't know how thick the urethane needed to be.  So I moved on to a different project.  
 
Enjenjo I'm glad I moved on to a different project.  I'm going to do it the way you described. So once the windshield is in place and cured good you take more urethane and put it in the slot that was left between the glass edge and the body and push the rubber trim in? Probably put tape over it. Let it cure and it will stay?  
 
Ugly Olds thanks for all the pros & cons of a crank out windshield I got a kick out of that. I was working on it and looking at those two holes in the lower corners I figured they were drain holes but until I read what you said I didn't realize that the water would drain into the car!!  
 
Idrivejunk thanks for the info and the link.  
 
CK I will keep you posted on how it goes. It might be a while.  
 
Thanks

Yup. Don't get carried away with the urethane when installing the trim. It is a * to get off where you don't want it. I find it's best to do it in sections when doing the trim. Start at the bottom

[UGLY OLDS]

Wow!!  Thanks for all the replys and info.  
 
I started making the spacer. cut a strip  broke it 90* and shrunk and stretched it to follow the car but I just didn't know how wide to make it because I didn't know how thick the urethane needed to be.  So I moved on to a different project.  
 
Enjenjo I'm glad I moved on to a different project.  I'm going to do it the way you described. So once the windshield is in place and cured good you take more urethane and put it in the slot that was left between the glass edge and the body and push the rubber trim in? Probably put tape over it. Let it cure and it will stay?  
 
Ugly Olds thanks for all the pros & cons of a crank out windshield I got a kick out of that. I was working on it and looking at those two holes in the lower corners I figured they were drain holes but until I read what you said I didn't realize that the water would drain into the car!!  
 
Idrivejunk thanks for the info and the link.  
 
CK I will keep you posted on how it goes. It might be a while.  
 
Thanks

Yup. Don't get carried away with the urethane when installing the trim. It is a * to get off where you don't want it. I find it's best to do it in sections when doing the trim. Start at the bottom

And ...Before you start ....Don't forget to fill the BIG holes on the upper edge where the hinges used to be .....

Also ...If your windshield frame / trim & crank /"tape" assembly is in good shape ,they can bring serious $$$$ to the restoration folks ....

 Oh...The little drains came OE with little hoses that ran behind the kick panels ...Effectively rusting out the cowl panel below the lower hinge ....     That was of course...Until they broke ...Then they just rusted out the dash & floor ....
Planned obsolescence   :!:  1937 style    

I also sent you a PM ..

Bob....

[idrivejunk]

Boy I'm glad you guys came along, Frank-n-Bob!

[Beck]

Sorry for the delayed post. I haven't been on here every day like I was when I was working. (Funny how I had time at work, and now I have none.)

I built a 34 Plymouth. I had the same issue. I used a U shaped piece of extruded aluminum (I think it was meant for a shower) for a spacer. I put the open side toward the outside edges. I made several cuts at the upper curves so it would bend and a miter cut at the bottom corners. I used urethane to mount the spacer prior to glass installation. The flat aluminum surface that was visible from inside the car was a nice metal surface. It worked for me. You need to use enough urethane to make sure the aluminum is sealed well to the body so water doesn't get trapped in the channel.

I'm not sure but I think I used early Dakota rubber for the outside trim. The glass needs to be cut undersize of the frame to allow the T of the rubber to be inserted.

As others have said, cleanup is a *. When you wipe the urethane everything gets black. Add solvent and the black area gets larger. Have lots of clean towels and be patient.

[UGLY OLDS]

Hey Mike ....(50 F1) ...Check you PM's ...


Bob ..

[50 F1]

Thanks Bob for the pm

I must be doing something wrong! Most of the selling points for the car on the video went to the salvage yard for my project. LOL

Mike

[UGLY OLDS]

Thanks Bob for the pm

I must be doing something wrong! Most of the selling points for the car on the video went to the salvage yard for my project. LOL

Mike

 That's too bad .....But you gotta admit ...The music was neat ....    

Bob...