33 Ford rocker replacement

[idrivejunk]

Thanks a lot, guys  

Think I got it whupped today. Spent the last half hour working on the other side, at the top of the door like this side.

Start with a Sharpie line and the door shut-



Hack hack, chop chop...

Cut off my previous version of an extension to the rocker. Adjusted the panels' bottom edges then welded the part that faces the ground. Opened up the cowl right next to the door jamb edge and bumped it and the also-split front top edge of the rocker up, together. Using a light spoon shoved into the cut and tapped with a hammer. Until a satisfactory door gap was achieved. Fitted a patch in the space left there. Started welding that-



Checking with door shut-



Dressed that up-



Make patch-



Weld n' grind patch. No extra charge for the kinda flat spot there. Hairs can be split in the filler stage with door on, this will work-



This was how the rear corner of the jamb ended up-



I think I had mentioned needing to cut the door shell and bring the bottom rear corner inward. These explain that-




This was how that front seam turned out on the other side, it had the same treatment-



I'll post some more pics if I get a chance with it in primer. Would be a lot easier to see the gaps that way.  

[jaybee]

That's a lot of detail work. Thanks for sharing your thought process so we can understand the approach.

[34ford]

I admire your skill and craftsmanship and creativity. Thanks for sharing. I have a 34 Ford also so I can relate to the body style.

[idrivejunk]

That's a lot of detail work. Thanks for sharing your thought process so we can understand the approach.

You are welcome. It was right around 3 and a half months I spent doing metal work on this thing, so yessir lots of details there. So many that I dared not try to meke anything perfect, just sufficient, for the best all around value I could offer.

I admire your skill and craftsmanship and creativity. Thanks for sharing. I have a 34 Ford also so I can relate to the body style.

Much obliged. I enjoy doing and sharing and its great when folks get to see the mysteries of their own type of car's body explored but on someone elses for free. The same techniques apply to most any car and the more you see, the more ideas you can generate.

In case anybody is wondering why I had to scalp both doors like I did...

I lined the door heights up by:

A- body line in the middle

B- rocker gap

C- top gap

...in that order. Because the body line really isn't adjustable, the rocker gap was infinitely adjustable, and the door tops were a one-shot-must-be-perfect affair that would not interfere with the other adjustments as long as it didn't hit.




I don't know if you guys can tell from the other pics, but after trimming the door edge at the desired line, I went in between the skin edge and face with a cutoff wheel and ground away some of the edge of the shell, then laid TIG rod in the groove. This way it was an easy grind with plenty of meat left after grinding, and accurate on the new edge line. Took "after grinding" pics of this but only with the shop cam. Oh well, it looked nice and has a good gap, and you'll probably see eventually anyhow.

I was just thrilled to be finished with the surgery!  

These next shots prove the hidden hinges are removable, and show the tucked wheel tubs. I am now preparing the body for some spots of epoxy then I'll start the filler work. Probably roof and decklid first because that stuff has been dry a good while.

[idrivejunk]

Shot epoxy today. Much sanding in my future

[kb426]

Has anyone said whether your shop is painting it or not? It would be nice to see the finished body. Looking good.

[idrivejunk]

Has anyone said whether your shop is painting it or not? It would be nice to see the finished body. Looking good.

Thank you sir. I do believe we are painting it. Have not heard anything to the contrary. Don't know what color. A full mock up is one of the next steps, but one inner front fender has not been delivered to us yet.

[UGLY OLDS]

What size tig wire was laid into the top of the door ??  Was that area then mig welded with the "dot" procedure or more of a short continuous weld bead ??  It looks GREAT when it gets ground to a finished edge ....   I like the way that you made your own rocker panels ... How are those secured to the main "box" section underneath or backside panel next to the frame rail ??  

Lookin' good  :!:  

Bob..

[idrivejunk]

What size tig wire was laid into the top of the door ??  Was that area then mig welded with the "dot" procedure or more of a short continuous weld bead ??  It looks GREAT when it gets ground to a finished edge ....   I like the way that you made your own rocker panels ... How are those secured to the main "box" section underneath or backside panel next to the frame rail ??  

Lookin' good  :!:  

Bob..

Hey Bob. Wire size... um... don't know. Our one guy who has a TIG sometimes has two sizes but lately just the small one. I wish it was the bigger one. Real technical there, I know.   The size I used was just about the thickness of 18 gauge sheet. If I laid it in the groove and clamped the skin layers up against it, the wire was also clamped a little. In the past, I've used larger wire and trimmed the edge down further to compensate.

This time there was no time to sneak up on it, I needed to trim it to the line and just stay on that line. I reckon the quest for speed, and the handy-ness of only the little wire size led me to this approach. As a bonus... I found, as you see, one row of welds is sufficient with this technique. Using larger wire and trimming further requires welding both sides.  

So I went with this sandwiched wire approach and it worked just as slick but faster. Of course a close inspection for splits or pits is necessary after grinding with either method.

That small wire is hard to not burn through, and needs to be bent to the correct contour first rather than tack and bend because it will burn and jump out if not. I found that for initial tacks, the bz-bzzzt quick double trigger tap worked best. However for this due to shop circumstances I was using .035 wire rather than .030.

As I see more better work on the web, and gain confidence, I have extended my dots. Yep, good eye, man. Familiarity with the materials and equipment does seem to allow me to step on the gas so to speak, and still do good. So as I have more welds in place and reach a point, I have allowed myself about five dots' worth max. I reckon that IS whats called stitching. Seems to be working. The finished product does look fine.

Gotta go snag a pizza. I'll answer the other half of your inquiry shortly  :T)

[kb426]

Pizza break?

[idrivejunk]

Pizza break?

Man that was good! I'll try to muffle the belches :oops:  

[idrivejunk]

the way that you made your own rocker panels ... How are those secured to the main "box" section underneath or backside panel next to the frame rail ??  

They are just butted on three sides in the door jamb and plug welded behind the quarter. Just one layer there. Perhaps this sketch can provide a short answer  :?:    

[UGLY OLDS]

Got It !!   Thanks ...

Bob..

[idrivejunk]

Finally finished (well, almost haha may have missed a spot) the mud work on body and doors then shot polyester primer today. There were areas where I had to tap around on it a little, and surely more flaws will become evident after this next round of sanding is done. I believe a mock up will be next. That or filler on the deck lid. Pictures...
















I must say I like the clutter-free look of the rocker jamb  

[kb426]

It's looking good. He's doing so much to the body, has anything been said about the drivetrain? How about the interior?