The detent drama

[GPster]

Preface: This rambleing doesn't include any question that need answers.Read it if you want. The time involved with this task took longer than it did to type about it.                                                                                                                                      While I was stripping the donor vehicle for the Jeepster I noticed the cable that went from the transmission to the engine was frayed. Even though the vehicle moved under it's own power I didn't know any of it's history and why it was "junked". I had originally been told that it was a "good" engine but when I couldn't get "PARK" from the transmission even though it started in "PARK" the transmission remained a question. The Jeepster's body made it necessary to put the engine further ti the rear in the donor chassis. During that task I became aware of the fact that the transmission was actually a 700-R4. This heightened the importance of that  frayed cable with all of the horror stories about burned-up transmissions caused by neglecting that cable's importance. Replacing that cable became a priority. I was pointed to a cable that fits all of these 700-R4 applications (even had my application on the package) so I bought it. That will fix that problem. An old time mechanic had put me in the mindset that it was better to change oil in an engine when the oil was warm. That was a priority in getting the engine to run after five years of sitting (there are pages covering that in this forum). I also wanted to get the fluids moving in the transmission and rear end so the thought had me getting the vehicle up on jack stands so things could move freely (PARK is still a question). What timing should I plan on for replacing the cable?  My Haynes book recommended changing the transmission fluid when it was warm. Can I change the detent cable (I know what it's called now) without dropping the pan? Will I hurt the transmission if I run it with no load and old fluid with this cable unhooked? These things while I can't even make the engine run. Slow Down, get the engine to run. That accomplished, start grabbing at other question. Someone that seems to be able to find an answer for every automotive question found be a site that said the detent cable could be unhooked from the transmission without dropping the transmission's pan. Everyone explains in detail how to adjust the detent cable at the carb (I have a throttle body mounted crossways) but no one shows how to change the cable. OK Now I know how to get the cable out of the transmission. Step One, read the instruction on the package. The fits all cable should be adjusted to be the same size as the OEM part.The transmission ends appears to be the same style, the housing can be adjusted to be the same length as the OEM, the replacement housing's other end appears to be adaptable to the 700 applications that the package's chart suggests and the cable is about a foot longer than the original. The replacement cable includes a few cable ends with the instruction on how to use them to replicate the OEM's use at the carb. There's a problem. My engine has a throttle body. The adaptable pieces fit mechanical linkage and the cable end on the OEM looks like the of a brake cable for a bicycle and fits in the hole at the end of a grove of a plastic pulley. The only parts that look similar to what I've got is the end set of your cable. It's 5/16" OD but the end of my cable is 7/32"OD. Am I supposed to know to drill out the hole in my linkage's plastic pulley to accept the supplied end? A visit to the manufacturer's web to ask that question gets me a prompt answer in the same day. No they don't recommend drilling the plastic part as that might weaken it but they suggest another one of their product that "MIGHT" work. A look at their suggested part on their web site didn't look like it held any solution but it did have a cable that was 40" long so I could have an additional 20" of cable to throw away. Googled my application (1987 GMC S15 2WD 2.5L 700-R4) to look for a detent cable that was supposed to work. Most vendors showed their solution coming from the same manufacturer but the all seemed to be solutions that could be adapted to fit. Then I started to look for an OEM part thinking that I wouldn't have to explain what I have but that came up empty. Maybe I hit on a solution when I thought that the end of the OEM cable looked like the end of a brake cable for a bicycle. The local bicycle shop that does repair is closed because this is Sunday (then) and it's closed on Monday too. Dorman/Help shows cable end sets in an assortment  with some (2) that are 1/4" (surely that plastic can stand drilling it 1/32" larger).  Bought that assortment but the screw (10 32) doesn't bottom against the cable hole but is tapped clear through. Plus the screw's head is larger than the diameter of the part and will stick out and maybe restrict the movement of the surrounding mechanisms. Google set screws. Lowes should have 10 32 1/4" set screws with allen wrench drive. If I have two of them I can screw them in from each end and they can each bottom against the cable and each other. The local Lowes has them, they are packaged in pairs and I got the last two, $.68 .They must have been for metric allen wrenches but I had that covered. I now have the fits all cable sized for my application. Install it into the transmission as instructed. Thread it up between the engine and the firewall. Drill the plastic pulley as necessary. Re-route wiring harness, re-position accelerator cable around harness. The new adaptable harness is going to have a kink where it goes into the bracket on the engine. Make the hole in the center of the firewall larger to lessen the sharpness of the bend (burn my 4 1/2" side grinder up and have to borrow the neighbor's to finish). The cable's housing end made to fit 700 applications has met 701.  The housing end is made to  "click" into a square opening and bracket is made to have the attachment "slide in" from the top. Step stool and trouble light didn't make it look any better. Side by side you would not see any reason why the adaption wouldn't work but over the engine or through the bigger hole in the firewall, there's no way. Even broke the new housing's clips trying to make it work. I wonder if the local trans shop might have a cable in their junk. Everyone says the Detent Cables break at the carb end and all the cables that have to go clear to the carb are going to be longer than what I need. I've already engineered the end for my plastic pulley and I've already modified the pulley to where an OEM cable won't be right. Well it's already after 5:00PM and the shop will be closed. I've already cut the cable and broken the end of my replacement so It's of no use to anyone. I'm tired and it won't look any better tomorrow. Out with the new cable, gather up the OEM cable, remove it's frayed cable, insert the cable from the fits all kit. I'm getting pretty good at hooking up the cable at the transmission. The other end of the cable's housing fits in the bracket on the engine like they grew up together. Now I can change the fluid and filter in the transmission and make new lines to my trans cooler.As long as thie Jeepster is up in the air on jack stands in my garage I can't show it off and say "see what I built". It makes me talk to myself. well I haven't done anything today so I think that I'll get cleaned up go to mass tonight. Getting the engine running had my wife making me go to my doctor for tranquilizers. He's a catholic too and when I told him peace and tranquility in church wasn't helping. He gave me a perscription but I'll call this deal done for now so I won't need one. GPster

[wayne petty]

http://www.fitzall.com/cable_connections.php



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many detent and throttle valve suppliers have universal cables of various lengths..

[GPster]

http://www.fitzall.com/cable_connections.php
many detent and throttle valve suppliers have universal cables of various lengths..

Wayne, That's the company that supplier the cable that I started with. The one that they suggested  looks like it has the same motor end on it's cable's housing which I already know won't fit my application. My inquiry to them stated my application and the site you sent shows a cable for 2.5L fours with 700-R4 that I thought they would have suggested knowing my application but the cable's housing end doesn't look any different  and there is no indication what the end of the cable looks like. I'll keep it in mind if my fix doesn't do it. GPster

[Arnold]

Cable ends: I have used electrical contractor wholesalers,marine parts places,snowplow parts places,places that sell wire rope.

[butch27]

WOW: that is extensive.