Jeepster hitting but not running

[GPster]

The ground for the fuel pump relay is one of only three Blk/Wht wires of all the wires. The other two are also component grounds (power steering switch and ECM A12). Because they had a similar importance I had tied them all together to make sure they were connected and grounded when I sorted out the wiring harness. They along with two other grounds that the ECM requires are all  grounded (that is what I thought the other stud on the terminal block wound be good for). When I reviewed the wiring diagram and found this out I checked the other components for ground and they were OK. Their grounds also had continuity with the relay's ground so I guessed the relay to be bad. The third parts store had the relay for an '87 vehicle in stock so I got it. It works and the new fuel pump works. With the new fuel filter, filled fuel line and the relay and pump running the engine still only runs on the prime. It won't even hit when the prime is gone so it must be stopping at the TBI. So I'm to you guys (and the internet and the library) for ideas. What's next? GPster

[BFS57]

Hello;
Grounding is a problem on my glass body 32. So, I found one good ground place, made a couple grounding connections out of some of those connection bars at Radio shack, installed them in various places around the car and ran wire to my selected grounding place (engine/battery ground) and then you can run connections with ends and attatch them to your grounding bus!
Works really great!!

Bruce

[GPster]

Hello;
Grounding is a problem on my glass body 32. So, I found one good ground place, made a couple grounding connections out of some of those connection bars at Radio shack, installed them in various places around the car and ran wire to my selected grounding place (engine/battery ground) and then you can run connections with ends and attatch them to your grounding bus!
Works really great!!Bruce

That was my design when I took all the ACC wires out of the harness. Of course putting them on the second stud of the junction block was taking it to far. Did a little hunting on the internet and found help for a similar condition as mine. The next step would be checking the TPS  and explanation how to check it with a test light. It might have to wait because it involves cranking the engine while watching a test light by the TBI. My arms aren't long enough and  with only one working eye I couldn't be sure of the results. I know this is like my writing a book but if any one tries to help me I'm trying to think of all the information that they'll need. GPster

[39deluxe]

This sounds like a real head scratcher. Have you made any more progress?

Tom

[GPster]

Got some information off the internet and an S10 Forum.  Had power to the injector but no flickering light on the test on the other wire from the computor when cranking. They suggested it was a common problem of a bad ignition module not feeding information from the computor. That would have gone over my head because there was spark and the engine ran on a prime. Thought I'd like some pictures abd directions to remove the module for testing. What further scared me is talk about  "Halls Effect" switch that might also be a problem in the distributor.  The wiring diagrams don't mention anything about this switch so here's where I thought I needed a book. Local library didn't have anything so my wife got on line in ABE books and found a book covering S10s '82 to '90. Waiting for the book to appear was a good time to have a good time with family over the Fourth but I was ready to have it when I got back home. No tracking information so while waiting I got into the Ohio Library's loaning directory and found a book that covers S10 '82 to '92 and ordered it. Still afraid to do anything without directions I waited. The book from ABE came but come to find out that the 2.5L four was only used in '86, '87, and '88 and is only covered with a supliment in the back of the book and relies to much on the 1.9L and the 2.0L information to suit me so I'm waiting on the library book before I stumble into the next step. The phone keeps ringing and somebody's wanting something. GPster

[kb426]

How about you connect the fuel pump relay to a switch and see if the engine will run as it should. If it will , isolate the cause of the relay not energizing.

[GPster]

The relay is energizing and the pump is running but the injector is not getting the signal to shoot fuel. The computor is sending power to the TBI but the computor is not send the fluchuating (makes more sense with out the l and h) ground to energize the injector. The way I understand it the module lets the computor know when the engine fires and how quickly so it can let the injector know how often and how fast to discharge fuel and that "Halls Efect" switch is in that signal somehow. If it rains tonight and tomarrow matbe the metal building that is my garage will start off cool enough so that I can see through the sweat drops. GPster

[GPster]

Well the librery book came today. I tried to look at it at lunchtime. It explained the "halls Effect" swith but mostly gave the impression it was one or the other and just said some engines had them but no better hin than that. After explaining the distriutors of each engine the next section was about removing and testing the ignition module. the first statement in the new section opened with the statement that it wasn't neccessary to remove the distributor to replace the module. Guess tomarrow in the cool of the morning I'll tear into it blindly. GPster

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Hope you find an answer.  

I have  a 4.3 chevy V6 on my engine run stand.  Adapting a Holley 2 barrel to it.  Early HEI dizzy installed.  I have run the engine previously, about 3 yrs ago.  Something I acquired about 20 yrs ago and the project died , never used this V6

[GPster]

Hope you find an answer.  

I have  a 4.3 chevy V6 on my engine run stand.  Adapting a Holley 2 barrel to it.  Early HEI dizzy installed.  I have run the engine previously, about 3 yrs ago.  Something I acquired about 20 yrs ago and the project died , never used this V6

I have one too! Mine is a  .030 oversize early model with the early type rear seal. I had it running and installed in the Jeepster at which point I decidede that the stock frame was too far gone. It was also just after I had started driving again. The realization that I needed power steering, power brakes, and I was too slow to handle too much power convinced me that a later model frame swap would be a direction to go. I had started stripping this S15 donor in the junkyard with the instructions to not disable it so much that the engine couldn't be run for some one else. During the stripping operation no engine buyers appeared and the engine was offered to me for an additional $100.00. I put my battery in the truck, started it and drove it out of the junkyard and onto a trailer. It made sense to me then and probably still makes sense. My V6 was offered as an engine for the Crosley Project so it still sits on my engine stand in the corner of my garage.  My engine stand is a monstosity that I bought at a "Yard Sale" that the local Olds / Cadillac dealer was having. I only gave $20.00 for it  and it doesn't take up any more room with an engine on it. The turbo 350 that I had to go in the project with the V6 was sold and it covered the additional money for the 2.5L four with the attached transmission and power steering pump and other accessories Unfortunately  I don't have the pressence of mind to concentrate on any other part of this project with this part of the project unresolved. If this journey to the ignition module doesn't "pan out" I may be considering looking for an old retired "Engine Doctor" to make a house call. A continuation of this novel. GPster

[GPster]

Well, I studied both books and tried to eliminate all of the information that didn't pertain to the engine I'm working on . I ended up making a folder of the texts and of the pictures  out of both books that I need to rely on while I'm trying to sort this out. The pictures didn't look like I needed to pull the distributor to get the module out so dove into it. I got the module out and took it to have it checked. It checked bad two differant ways. Maybe this isolates the problem. Of course they didn't have one in stock. I found one in town but I felt I needed to give the business to the place thet checked mine and found it bad (plus I had a $5.00 off coupon) so I waited til this morning for a replacement. Put the new module in and it still doesn't give any gas out of the injector. Well I would have had to replace the bad part anyway. I hope what's wrong wasn't what burned up the old module so I'd probably better have the replacement checked.  My distributor is the one with the "Halls Effect" switch and the books tell how to check it. I'll have to read the instructions on my "Amprobe". It's got a digital screen so maybe it will check low voltage DC. In my reading I've noticed the use of a "Noid Light" to check the signal to the injector. Maybe it would be easier than trying to hold my test light to the light blue wire and the positive terminal on the battery while turning the keys with my teeth. I think I'll change the batteries in the house's remote reading digital outdoor thermometer to assure myself it's too hot to carry this any further today. GPster

[GPster]

Well after memorizing the proceedure to check the "Hall Effect" switch and bringing copies of the book to the garage with me, I did the suggested test.  It passed. Still no fuel from the injector. The engine will still run on a prime so I haven't made it worse yet. I know I have 12 V going to the injector and I tested the other wire to the injector for continuity from the EMS to the injector and it checks. I guess the next thing I should do is check my wiring and try to figure out which wire carries the signal from the "Hall Effect" switch to the EMS. My reading says that that the signal from the "Hall Effect" switch is used instead of the signal from the "R" terminal of the module. I looked at all of the Iron Duke 2.5L info I could find on the S10 Forum and no hints of why. Replacement switches can run close to $100.00 and nobody seems to have had to change one so the problem is probably something else. WHAT? Well tomarrow morning we go to pick up Marcedes our Cincinnati grandpuppy. So for the next week I'll have one cat, twelve chickens and two dogs to keep me busy, So it's probably just as well if it doesn't run because it still doesn't have a muffler on it. GPster

[GPster]

Well, that's not going to be as easy as it sounds. There is nothing on the wiring diagram that is round and says distributor. I thought that maybe one wire would be going into the ECM in the same section as the lt blue wire of the injector but what I've got is four wires coming out of a box called EST with three of them coming from someplace else. Thinking ahead there probably won't be any signal on any of the wires unless the battery is hooked up, the key is on and the motor is being rolled over. I guess I've got purchasing a Noid light in my future. Checking the S10 Forum  most of the questions for anything about this "Iron Duke" were from 2007 where people where trying to get another 100,000 miles out of an old piece of junk. The newest question was I think from 2011. Maybe the fact that the engine buyer for this engine in the junk yard didn't come back should have told me something. Maybe the people that knew about their problems are dead. GPster

[58 Yeoman]

I had to look up noid lights. Harbor Freight has a setup for $40.

[GPster]

I had to look up noid lights. Harbor Freight has a setup for $40.

I caught that too. Only thing holding me back is a strong realization that I seem to be getting older and dumber and I hate to buy a kit that checks so many things except the one I have. A quick look at the fuel injected vehicles it covers doesn't cover the GM Rockchester 700 TBI. On the top of the Google ad summit shows a single light for less than $!0.00 so I might check that one second. Need to check with my neighbor first. He's has gone from mechanic to dis-abled and he might have invested in that "tool" when he was more in the business. I still  get the feeling that the problem that the problem is electrical. GPster