68 Camaro bodywork

Rrumbler · June 15, 2016, 02:36:07 AM

I am honestly beginning to believe that you could make a silk purse from a sows ear.

UGLY OLDS · June 15, 2016, 10:58:37 AM

Quote from: "Rrumbler"I am honestly beginning to believe that you could make a silk purse from a sows ear.

He did that in last month's episode .....

Did you miss it :?:

Bob...

chimp koose · June 15, 2016, 11:22:43 AM

I am looking at the picture of the roll cage where you have a little bondo to cover scratches and just below there it looks like the roll cage has been butt welded where it is hidden behind the dash . Am I seeing it right ? That would be OK if the joint was sleeved and rosette welded but would definitely not pass an NHRA chassis cert. if it was not .

idrivejunk · June 15, 2016, 07:30:52 PM

Quote from: "Rrumbler"I am honestly beginning to believe that you could make a silk purse from a sows ear.

Quote from: "UGLY OLDS"
Quote from: "Rrumbler"I am honestly beginning to believe that you could make a silk purse from a sows ear.

He did that in last month's episode .....

Did you miss it :?:

Bob...

If theres a certain kinda worm in the pig's ear... theres hope!

idrivejunk · June 15, 2016, 07:46:16 PM

Quote from: "chimp koose"I am looking at the picture of the roll cage where you have a little bondo to cover scratches and just below there it looks like the roll cage has been butt welded where it is hidden behind the dash . Am I seeing it right ? That would be OK if the joint was sleeved and rosette welded but would definitely not pass an NHRA chassis cert. if it was not .

I believe that is a pie cut, sir. Good eye :!:

Can't feel anything on the other side of the pipe, its smooth. Luckily, this is a ProStreet poser type car that will not be expected to pass tech. The cage is pretty much for looks, its a unibody now.

Not much to show today. I did hang doors and fenders and we still have gaps there (once the rest of the mud is on). Cowl, hood, header, and valance fit are still up in the air pending hood and striker plate.

But I knew it still had those notches in the rockers so I patched them. The rocker ends needed some coaxing to line up with the wheel openings. Then I spent some time adding welds to the seat braces. Pic lighting sucks but the A/C sure felt good today!

kb426 · June 15, 2016, 09:38:53 PM

I gotta get some of those high performance wood wheels!

chimp koose · June 16, 2016, 12:07:37 AM

^^^could sure make the tires bark ! ^^^^

idrivejunk · June 16, 2016, 09:44:23 PM

Just think... you could do burnouts to adjust final drive ratio!

I think WZ is making some orange ones for the salt

Where did today go? 68 Camaro guy came by and we talked. He assured me the glass and moldings were there (and they were), and I assured him we're almost done. I had plenty of things to show him.

Test fitted the glass and they fit nicely on both cars. Thats good news!

I welded the quarters to the rockers at the bottom on the inside then moved on to making these flange strips before getting sidetracked. Car feels fairly sturdy now, with these things all tied together.

idrivejunk · June 17, 2016, 07:19:17 PM

Friday half-day. Welded up those driver's side flange strips and smoothed welds. Discussed hood situation and got a plan. Had time to mess with a couple other areas that desperately needed the few minutes of attention.

Make believe you are the driver's side U-seal on the quarter, in the jamb looking rearward. See that cobbled-on bracket tying the roof rail to the wheelhouse? There was nothing there. Now there is.

Now raise up a notch and stick your head inside the car. Watch out for the cage.

In the pic below- See the little strip tacked to that notch in the quarter at the roof rail? Its mainly a seam sealer shelf but I was able to tack it up there gently. Some OE moldings might cover that spot with a rubber flap but my bet is that it will show so I put something there to replace the ripped out and gone original. Mine are just notched and bent strips. Beats having a gap, and I'm willing to take the whoopin over burnt primer spot.

Other side, same deal but the quarter's edge is made differently-

You can kinda see both in this pic. This side's roof rail was rusted away much farther up so I added an appendage. Zero points for neatness, function and speed being the primary objectives.

Also stuck the grey Goodmark hood back on for now. Our supplier mentioned something I had previously concluded was a possibility...

that Goodmark hoods fit Goodmark fenders only. Makes sense. We'll see.

idrivejunk · June 20, 2016, 07:32:49 PM

I'm using this grey hood and a borrowed striker to mock-up with until the new stuff comes. It looks good except in a couple spots that were spot welded at the wrong spot. Good enough to continue with. Anyway so I set the fender / hood / valance / header gaps like I wanted without too much hassle at all. The hood latch support was causing an issue or two. Moved a hole, added shims, lovely.

But I noticed a little brown stuff when I was tweaking the corners of the header or whatever you call it, so I sanded it back a little-

Aw man... seriously? Face palm.

Thats just un-called-for, now. I reckon the bodyman who did that is probably dead by now so ... what was he thinking? Oh my.

How would you proceed?

enjenjo · June 20, 2016, 07:52:13 PM

Treat it with triple etch metal prep, and epoxy prime.

kb426 · June 20, 2016, 07:55:29 PM

When I see something like that I'm aware of why so many cars are media blasted before any work starts. I cause my own problems because I don't have a good source for blasting but I always know where I'm starting at. I think you could spray epoxy primer on that and it would be fine but I have limited knowledge about this. The stuff I did is less than 20 years old so I don't know when the failure point arrives.

?

idrivejunk · June 20, 2016, 08:12:52 PM

Quote from: "enjenjo"Treat it with triple etch metal prep, and epoxy prime.

Triple etch... is that a brand or a type?

What epoxy do you like best?

I was thinking an acid etch might do it some extra good, but also figure that DP90 will stick to it just fine.

idrivejunk · June 20, 2016, 08:18:27 PM

Quote from: "kb426"When I see something like that I'm aware of why so many cars are media blasted before any work starts. I cause my own problems because I don't have a good source for blasting but I always know where I'm starting at. I think you could spray epoxy primer on that and it would be fine but I have limited knowledge about this. The stuff I did is less than 20 years old so I don't know when the failure point arrives. ?

I am from the camp that believes any panel face that has been sandblasted should be sanded as well. Jambs and such, nah. But without following with sandpaper, I find the surface too porus to clean properly in most cases. When the failure point arrives is anybody's guess, so all we can do is give it our best, right? Then if theres a problem later, stand behind the workmanship. It has worked for me. Now if that panel would just fit in our blast cabinet I'd be all set!

enjenjo · June 20, 2016, 09:23:52 PM

Quote from: "idrivejunk"
Quote from: "enjenjo"Treat it with triple etch metal prep, and epoxy prime.

Triple etch... is that a brand or a type?

What epoxy do you like best?

I was thinking an acid etch might do it some extra good, but also figure that DP90 will stick to it just fine.

It's a type, it's a bit stronger acid. I like DP 40, 50 ect, but I have used other types too.