R. Wiper Repair(D/D)

[Arnold]

I have seen videos where the proper way to repair these is to not just stuff a motor in which I am about to do..
 I see there are issues with the shaft/sleeve..there is a cure by drilling into the housing,cleaning it out and re-greasing it..Anyone tried that?
 Many times it appears that if this is nipped right in the bud..right when there is ANY slowness..then that is all that is required..and the motor just continues to last almost forever
 Mine is/was starting..suddenly..to get slow..stall..not work..on off..slower.
I managed to get some  stuff in there..and left the lid up for about 2 days literally
 Seems to be ok now..no play in the shaft..but I don't trust it to go through the winters we have here..
 I have also heard that there are just tons and tons of real junk replacements that need to be changed again soon..out there..
  So don't be so quick in yanking out the old one I dunno.

  Anyone know anything about these things..

  Thanks

[enjenjo]

I believe these have plastic bushings now, and there is no easy way to take them apart. You might try drilling a small hole through the housing, into the bushing, and putting some light oil into the hole. Outside of a new one, I have no other suggestions.

[Arnold]

I believe these have plastic bushings now, and there is no easy way to take them apart. You might try drilling a small hole through the housing, into the bushing, and putting some light oil into the hole. Outside of a new one, I have no other suggestions.

 Thanks Appreciate that..I literally just came from an auto parts place..I don't deal with them regularly. $200..the guy first starte saying some disclaimer thing? Then proceded to show me it in print in the box..saying that this unit may not look the same as the old one but it is..

 Ok..I have a rough idea of what that one in my truck looks like..to compare this too
 My digital camera was actually pretty robust..it does have a lot of metal in it! Compared to this.
This rear wiper motor was just a piece of small plasticy..junk..I looked at this part and just could not imagine it lasting in the winters we have here

  I dunno..maybe I gotta dig into this a bit..find a better motor/fix a good older core..when this guy said how much for my old core..I said forget it you ain't gettin that..I might need to rebuild that one..I'll eat the core cost.

  I had an old Landcruiser..had the manual wiper handles inside

[BFS57]

Hello;
I would try to access it from the back side, if possible. Next go to a junk yard, find one and take it out. This will get you ready to work on yours,
Another thing I have done recently is go on U tube and see if anyone posted a video on how to fix it!
As far as parts go, I'm a Roc Auto buyer, They are At least half the price of the local auto parts stores in my area!!
Good Luck!!

Bruce

[Arnold]

Hello;
I would try to access it from the back side, if possible. Next go to a junk yard, find one and take it out. This will get you ready to work on yours,
Another thing I have done recently is go on U tube and see if anyone posted a video on how to fix it!
As far as parts go, I'm a Roc Auto buyer, They are At least half the price of the local auto parts stores in my area!!
Good Luck!!

Bruce

 Thanks..the junk yards up here don't have any..they are pretty big in selling them new/re-man..whatever..their prices look the best.
 Videos..car repair/resto videos. I should have known better :oops: So many of them are just "staged"..look for who sponsors it I guess??
I vividly rememberring seeing one years ago..something caught my eye..hey..um..I do know that job well..somethin' missin' here..those parts NEVER come apart.
  I do look at them the odd time to give me some idea. Some. Some stuff I see and know not to do that.
  I like to shop local..whenever I can..I am very lucky that there is a great! Discount non chain place 15 min away. I need to keep costs down
so I shop around..they have really good and cheap parts You are so right at the prices at some of these parts places! How do they stay in business? No one would pay that..people must. There are stupid priced online junk too.
  I find it amazing in this day and age that some very cheap online stuff/services..are just plain great. Sure there is junk..against the terrible awful experiences that many of us have been shocked by once great brick and mortar business's.

[Arnold]

I have seen videos where the proper way to repair these is to not just stuff a motor in which I am about to do..
 I see there are issues with the shaft/sleeve..there is a cure by drilling into the housing,cleaning it out and re-greasing it..Anyone tried that?
 Many times it appears that if this is nipped right in the bud..right when there is ANY slowness..then that is all that is required..and the motor just continues to last almost forever
 Mine is/was starting..suddenly..to get slow..stall..not work..on off..slower.
I managed to get some  stuff in there..and left the lid up for about 2 days literally
 Seems to be ok now..no play in the shaft..but I don't trust it to go through the winters we have here..
 I have also heard that there are just tons and tons of real junk replacements that need to be changed again soon..out there..
  So don't be so quick in yanking out the old one I dunno.

  Anyone know anything about these things..

  Thanks

  Thanks Guys  I mighta fixed this  My kind of repair.
   I put some Seafoam in the shaft in when the hatch was horizontal. This stuff will get into small spaces but is not a good rust buster. I follow this with PB. I find this stuff too aggressive..chemically..it gets/breaks down rust..does it's job..and any lube left too..stuff rusts quick with just PB..I follow this with Honey Goo..which I have found to be the best rust protection..and a bit of lube.
  lol..don't know how long this wll work
  I did not know that the wiper could go that fast

[wayne petty]

one thing... at least with front wiper motors.. many have a ground connection coming out of the motor that is grounded via the wiper motor hold down screw.. that is a terrible place to ground a wiper motor at..  move it to a body ground and you may be amazed..

you did not mention what application.. does the wiper motor have a circuit board that may need some resoldering.

its just an idea..

here is a 98 astro/safari version i resoldered the circuit board and moved the ground..  what a difference..

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/waynep712/CAM00522_zpscubqdzjq.jpg~original

[Arnold]

one thing... at least with front wiper motors.. many have a ground connection coming out of the motor that is grounded via the wiper motor hold down screw.. that is a terrible place to ground a wiper motor at..  move it to a body ground and you may be amazed..

you did not mention what application.. does the wiper motor have a circuit board that may need some resoldering.

its just an idea..

here is a 98 astro/safari version i resoldered the circuit board and moved the ground..  what a difference..

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/waynep712/CAM00522_zpscubqdzjq.jpg~original

  Thanks again Wane
  This is kind of eerie..I just spent the last 1 1/2 hrs driving in wreck wiper motors..or replace them before they fail kind of weather,driving. You put your wiper motor through this enough times you buy a new one.
  Seriously heavy/frozen..freezing..the kind of thing you need to get a handle on..heat..heat to the windows. Just ridiculously heavy freezing snow..just a few inches of nastiness on the road. The whole time I was driving..pretty much all I was concerned about was just how much more secure heavier vehicles are in terms of stability in bad road conditions.

  I cleaned all the windows and headed out..ya..this wiper motor is gonna..be done, It worked better than it had ever worked before I did not know that these things could be so powerful.
  Probably badly grounded and getting power surges..will burn out tonite
  Guess I'll just leave it..be a good idea to scrounge around and find a cheaper motor and have it on hand.
  It is an 06 Uplander..
    As long as I've had it I have been aware of the rear wiper speed..ok..that is how fast it goes..for the last few years..now it can go pretty fast  Clearly there was a problem with the shaft.bushing/something seized up.
  Gotta love those "Spray penetrating oil on it and it will go away"  repairs

[wayne petty]

just curious.. i have not had one of these in my hands.  i was looking at images of replacements online..  are those Torx screws holding the plastic back on the assembly.  making it almost possible to tear the wiper transmission apart..

perhaps the original versions have the studs wobbled down into rivet type fasteners.

i see that the motor case is held on with bent tabs.. but one should not have to extract the armature to clean and grease the wiper arm shaft and its gears..

if i were going to drill into the housing to clean and lube the bore.  i would tap it to 1/4-28 and use a zirc fitting  or a zirc plug so i did not end up with any water coming inside the rear door..  but i could pump it full of boat trailer bearing grease.

if that case is riveted..  a quick center punch and skill would allow you to drill thru the potmetal casting to allow the splitting of the wiper transmission and screwing it back together..

i would have one worry..  looks like potmetal.. looks like aluminum .. could that be from GM a magnesium casting?? making the drill shavings kinda dangerous..

these are just thoughts from afar..

[Arnold]

just curious.. i have not had one of these in my hands.  i was looking at images of replacements online..  are those Torx screws holding the plastic back on the assembly.  making it almost possible to tear the wiper transmission apart..

perhaps the original versions have the studs wobbled down into rivet type fasteners.

i see that the motor case is held on with bent tabs.. but one should not have to extract the armature to clean and grease the wiper arm shaft and its gears..

  Thanks Wayne
  To be honest..I did not get a real good/close look at either of these..other than what I saw in manuals/online..my own..as much as I could see without actually taking it apart..
  I had a rough idea of what they looked like..and mine too..I just looked at this one at the parts place..and the guy explaining about it being the same and him reading this sheet..ya I dunno..I dunno..
  Part of me looked at the new part and saw an IMMEDIATE problem  in putting something that clearly does not resemble the original.
  Been there done that. I really want a motor that looks SOMETHING
like the original..
  In the mean time..mine has never been better..
  I thought about the boat grease too..or even plumbers grease there

if i were going to drill into the housing to clean and lube the bore.  i would tap it to 1/4-28 and use a zirc fitting  or a zirc plug so i did not end up with any water coming inside the rear door..  but i could pump it full of boat trailer bearing grease.

if that case is riveted..  a quick center punch and skill would allow you to drill thru the potmetal casting to allow the splitting of the wiper transmission and screwing it back together..

i would have one worry..  looks like potmetal.. looks like aluminum .. could that be from GM a magnesium casting?? making the drill shavings kinda dangerous..

these are just thoughts from afar..

[Arnold]

I was just at a GM dealer. The GM METAL high quality NEW motor is $190 Cdn. They sell these motors ALL the time.The aftermarket garbage plastic ones sell for about $250. They are failing just as fast as the new GM motors are being sold

  The problem originates with the motor shaft/bushing wearing at the OUTSIDE of the motor..gets sloppy..water..lovely salt gets in there by the seal.Drilling,cleaning,lubricating the pump at the inside will not fix the problem.

  Mine is 100% now..I am now just sortta questioning what kind of lubricant to spray from the outside down the shaft?
  I had so many failures of lubricant related to white lithium spray grease from different manufacturers that I simply had to stop using it. Something must have changed in the ingredient.The stuff barely sticks now andwashes off in a blink. I am using "Honey Goo" now..it is 100 times better than spray white lithium grease. I just used a gob of plain chassis grease to try and seal the shaft/bushing/seal area on the outside.

   Thanks again for any help