Light weight brakes?

Beck · February 17, 2015, 10:51:29 AM

I have another thread about building an 8.8 Ford rear axle labeled "Axle Bearing Question". Since this is about brakes I didn't want to clutter that thread.

I have a couple of options for brakes on the axle I am putting together.
1) I can run the stock Explorer setup. I have nice rotors and useable calipers. The calipers are steel. They are small but seem a bit heavy. Using these I would weld a small OE style bracket on the axle end, bolt on the steel caliper mounting bracket and then the caliper. All added weight. The good thing is I already have it all.

2) I am considering using the small racing GM metric calipers. There are a couple of issues with these. My rotors are 11.25". These are designed for 11.75" rotors. I don't know if the pad area on the rotors is about the same size and I could just move the caliper ¼" closer to the axle. The next problem is rotor thickness. The Explorer rotor is non-vented and fairly thin (about .5"). The small GM calipers are built for .810", 1.0" and 1.25" thick rotors. I have seen spacers to use in the caliper for different thickness rotors, but none as thick as I would need. Is it an issue putting a thick spacer in? With these calipers I would weld a larger bracket on the tube and the caliper would bolt direct to it.

At a swap meet I saw a vendor selling rebuilt Wildwood GM calipers for $70. I didn't know if that was a good buy or not. I see new ones on Ebay selling for $100. Speedway has small GM calipers for $40 but I believe those are steel. I don't know how much weight is saved going from steel to aluminum on these calipers.

Crazy, I will spend money to save weight on this thing, but I won't go on a diet I so badly need.

GPster · February 17, 2015, 12:59:41 PM

Back in my motorcycle days I had a '77 Harley Super Glide and it had a "Narrow Glide" front end. The problem with these front ends was the calipers had to slide in its mounting (like a car) so that the piston on one side of the caliper would create enough force so that the inside and outside caliper pad would squeeze on the disc. All this "Monkey Motion" use to wear parts. Back then there was a company called Performance Machine that made billet calipers with pistons on both side to press on both pads on both sides of the disc. These calipers mounted solid and did not have to have any side ways sliding in their mount. I know these would not be a simple "junk yard"part but if you could come up with thin discs this idea would make a simple and light set-up. Another dumb idea, GPster

Beck · February 17, 2015, 01:51:32 PM

I just found this drawing. It shows the outside clearance for the caliper when mounted with 11" rotors, so I guess the 11.25" rotors would work fine.

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/Caliper/Images_dimensions-lg/GM-Metric_Single_Piston_Floater-cm-lg.jpg

Beck · February 17, 2015, 02:32:40 PM

Quote from: "Beck"At a swap meet I saw a vendor selling rebuilt Wildwood GM calipers for $70. I didn't know if that was a good buy or not.

I just found new ones on sale, $140/pr to my door. I guess the rebuilt ones were not a good buy.

papastoyss · February 18, 2015, 03:24:59 PM

Quote from: "Beck"
Quote from: "Beck"At a swap meet I saw a vendor selling rebuilt Wildwood GM calipers for $70. I didn't know if that was a good buy or not.

I just found new ones on sale, $140/pr to my door. I guess the rebuilt ones were not a good buy.

I have seen S 10 Blazers in salvage yards w/ nice looking aluminum calipers both front & rear. Late 90s ,early 2000 range, seems like they were 4wd.

Beck · February 18, 2015, 08:51:14 PM

I ordered a new pair of the aluminum Wilwood small GM metric calipers today. $140 to my door. Inexpensive pads were $19 and new pins were $6 at the local parts house.

I ordered the ones for .810" thick rotors. I will have to make some shims to use my .475" thick rotors. I would like to put the shim on the piston side to make more room to clear the wheels. I don't know if that is possible since there is a spring clip that goes into the piston on that side.

I also need to make aluminum brackets to mount the calipers on. Those will be welded to the axle tubes. I am planning to use 3/8" thick sheet for this. Does everyone think that is thick enough?

enjenjo · February 19, 2015, 09:05:20 AM

The pad clips can be left out when using a piston spacer, the caliper pins will hold the pads in place.

Beck · February 19, 2015, 09:46:54 AM

Quote from: "enjenjo"The pad clips can be left out when using a piston spacer, the caliper pins will hold the pads in place.

I expected that and was hoping someone would confirm it here. Thanks.

Am I better with a spacer shaped like the pad or a machined round extension of the piston? I suspect pad shaped is best.

enjenjo · February 19, 2015, 12:02:13 PM

Piston shape is lighter. I make them from aluminum.

40_Tudor · March 02, 2015, 12:01:27 PM

Where did you get the new Wilwood calipers from?
I need a different set with the brake hose boss in the center of the caliper instead of out the bottom for strut rod clearance on my 40 Tudor.
Summit wants about $165 each for the ones I need. #120-10936

Beck · March 19, 2015, 11:53:55 PM

Quote from: "40_Tudor"Where did you get the new Wilwood calipers from?
I need a different set with the brake hose boss in the center of the caliper instead of out the bottom for strut rod clearance on my 40 Tudor.
Summit wants about $165 each for the ones I need. #120-10936

Sorry for the delay in response. Haven't checked in for a bit.
I bought mine here. They are on clearance. Mine are for .81 thick calipers but they have the 1.25 for the same price. They are not center feed.

https://www.karlperformance.com/p/120-6426-Brand-New-Wilwood-Caliper-GM-Metric-120-6426-SI/51358/918