Concrete anchors. Flush with concrete

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Any suggestions on flush type anchors.  4 of them in a square pattern.  Removable bolts, so all is level with the floor

I need a place to bolt tool to the floor to stabilize it. Probably 1/2 or 5/8 inch size bolts.

I dont want studs sticking up to trip over or blow tyre out.

[unklian]

MAYBE :
Search for Hilti Drop In Anchors.
IIRC, they can be glued in place.

A little bit out of my field, but a place to start.

[BFS57]

Hello;
What ever you use, I know there will have to be some concrete drilling involved.
You might want to check out an industrial shelving co. I know when we had our shelves installed, they had to drill holes and bolt them to the floor!
Wouldn't hurt to check out Home Depot to see what they may have.

Bruce

[moose]

It takes a good sized hammer drill and bit to install a 5/8 anchor. Best I have used is Hilti brand.

[416Ford]

You can use a wedge bolt. Similar to a tapcon but much bigger. If you check on the Hilti (US), Rawl or Powers web site you may be able to find a round head option also. Those may be a little more pricey since they are not as common.

[wayne petty]

before you leave the hardware store.  see if you can find some flat head allen cap screws in the proper size..  (countersunk \_/ )  and throw your drop in anchors on a lathe and bevel the threaded end ..  if you get the hole drilled to the proper depth... so the anchors sit just below the surface.. you can use some anti seize on the flat head allens when you are not using these to hold something down to prevent the threads from filling up.

you could use a dab of silicone under the head to make them water tight..

i have drilled the counter sink deeper after installation to get the head of the plug bolt flush with the floor..

just an idea..  i tripped over anchor bolts sticking up yesterday..

[PeterR]

Any suggestions on flush type anchors.  4 of them in a square pattern.  Removable bolts, so all is level with the floor

I need a place to bolt tool to the floor to stabilize it. Probably 1/2 or 5/8 inch size bolts.

I dont want studs sticking up to trip over or blow tyre out.

Try the old fashioned LOXIN fastener
http://www.ramset.com.au/Product/Detail/85/Loxin-Shield-Anchors

or the later high strength version
http://www.ramset.com.au/Product/Detail/70/SpaTec-Plus-Safety-Anchors

Both stick like baby poop, are completely flush with the concrete surface, and the bolt can be removed/replaced often as you like leaving the anchor in the concrete.

For years LOXIN was the standard faster for holding down machinery. The only reason they have fallen out of  favor is that the hole in the concrete has to be larger diameter than the hole in the base plate, so it is necessary to mark the hole through the base plate, slide the machinery to one side, drill the hole, fit the anchor then slide back the machinery.

If you plan to leave them open for long periods crud will fall down the hole into the threads.   You can stop this by fitting a filler bolt with socket head or countersunk head and winding it down until level with the concrete surface.

[416Ford]

I missed the removable part when I read this the first time. Do not use the Wedge bolts.
There are drop in anchors available in 5/8"(Red Head - RM-58) I would suggest the stainless ones (Red Head - SRM-58) if your floor get wet or cleaned with water.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

I missed the removable part when I read this the first time. Do not use the Wedge bolts.
There are drop in anchors available in 5/8"(Red Head - RM-58) I would suggest the stainless ones (Red Head - SRM-58) if your floor get wet or cleaned with water.

Yes.  I need something flush with floor or dang near flush when bolts are removed.


I need a method to secure a post for a tool that needs some space around it in an open area.

Bolting to a bench would work I guess, but then I have to clean off the whole bench.  That is not my nature to have a clean bench, I ain't like Glen

:-}

[wayne petty]

mounting a tool stand.. post..   could be as easy as a carefully selected tubing diameter that matches a carbide tipped hole saw.. cutting a circle in the concrete or several.  so you just slip the tool mounting tube into the slot in the concrete..   creating a clean out tool with a short length of the tubing.. and welding an old socket to it.. so you can use your impact to spin the clean out the groove tool into the floor.. without damaging the hole..  i am not talking a HOLE BORED Thru your concrete.. only a partial depth circular slot.


if you don't need 360 Degrees.. you could do something like this to mount your tool to a receiver mounted under your bench or to the end of your bench...

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/trailer-hitch/hitch-mount-vise-plate-66260.html

this mounts to the leg or under the shelf of your work bench.. http://www.harborfreight.com/3500-lb-step-bumper-receiver-69673.html

or this one..

http://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb-Step-Bumper-Receiver-69670.html

need to get farther away from the work bench... http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-hitch-extender-69882.html

just thoughts to attempt to help..

depending on the weight.. a quick adjust foot to go under the end.. or some cheezy idea like this to stop the weight of the post and what ever you are mounting on it.. from tipping your work bench over.. http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/trailer-jacks/heavy-duty-2000-lb-capacity-top-wind-trailer-jack-42950.html  nothing much over 20 bucks each..

i am trying to talk a friend with an off road truck to mounting the bolt on receivers to the outsides of the frame rails so we can make his truck bed quick removable.  if he used some of the shock absorbing hitches with rubber mounted pin holes..  we could mount the cab on them also. six pins and the cab and front end lifts off in one piece..  using perhaps the clutch line quick disconnects that are available that seal when disconnected..  i have not checked the pressure rating on those yet..

i don't know what the rules are over the past few years.. if its the cab that has to finish.. or the cab and chassis..  so carrying a spare rolling frame.. pop the cab off.. mount it on the spare frame and continue racing..  i have not told him we could mount the spring perches on this quick disconnect devices also.

[Digger]

My bench is 4X8 and I inlaid a 2X2 peice of 3/16 steel in one corner. I cut 2, 2 inch square holes and welded square tubing flush with the steel. I made adapters for several tools--shear, shrinker, bead roller etc. They just drop in the holes and when they are not needed stuck under the bench. The plate is also handy for shaping and banging on small parts.

[phat46]

At the die shop I worked at we had  skate tracks all over the shop to move the steel rule dies on. They were mounted on the typical three legged adjustable height stands. Every so often there was walkway through the skate track about three feet wide. Sometimes when rolling a die along the tracks it would catch on the track on the other side of a walkway. Some of the dies could weigh hundreds of pounds. When they would hit the skate track they usually pulled the anchors holding the stands down right out of the concrete. We used the usual expanding anchors of various brands and they all did it. We talked to a local jobber about it and he gat us some anchors that epoxied into the concrete. They were basically a threaded insert epoxied in. They came with their own epoxy that was two part with a gun to mix it as it went in.They worked so well that the stands not only stayed put, but they would bend the top post over and usually the one at the other end of the track as well!  

[enjenjo]

I've had good luck with these.  http://www.mcmaster.com/#concrete-anchors/=ub9jje  Make sure the hole is clean, grease the bolt with Vasaline, put some epoxy in the hole, and drive it in.

[Old Blue]

Way too much discussion on this.
Hilti has what you need.

Very simple flush with the floor threaded insert.

You drill the hole to fit the insert to the proper depth so that the top of the insert when slipped into the hole is even with the floor surface.

You then slip a straight drift pin punch smaller than the threads into the insert and give it a good smack with a hammer to seat the bottom plug and expand the bottom of the legs of the anchor and lock it in place.

After that whenever you want to have the anchor holes un-used they will just be threaded holes flush with the floor.

If you want to keep the holes clean and keep them from filling up with debris , you can cut some all thread of the appropriate size and then cut a groove into the top with your zip cutting blade and grinder for a large flat screwdriver.

That way you can have removable plugs for the holes.

All pretty simple , yes ?

https://www.hilti.ca/anchor-systems/flush-anchors/r2457

[PeterR]

Way too much discussion on this.
Hilti has what you need.

Very simple flush with the floor threaded insert.

You drill the hole to fit the insert to the proper depth so that the top of the insert when slipped into the hole is even with the floor surface.

You then slip a straight drift pin punch smaller than the threads into the insert and give it a good smack with a hammer to seat the bottom plug and expand the bottom of the legs of the anchor and lock it in place.

After that whenever you want to have the anchor holes un-used they will just be threaded holes flush with the floor.

If you want to keep the holes clean and keep them from filling up with debris , you can cut some all thread of the appropriate size and then cut a groove into the top with your zip cutting blade and grinder for a large flat screwdriver.

That way you can have removable plugs for the holes.

All pretty simple , yes ?

https://www.hilti.ca/anchor-systems/flush-anchors/r2457

These are quick and easy but are only meant for applications where very low pullout resistance is required.

The advantage of the LOXIN style is that the tension in the bolt causes the shell to expand more and actually increases the grip of the anchor as more load is applied. For cracked or porous concrete the Chemi anchor can not be beaten, but there is a bit of fiddle to set it up as a flush fitting.

Interestingly the type of fastening approved to anchor safety harness to the underside of a concrete slab is not very impressive at all, it has a simple expanding rubber sleeve similar in appearance to the rubber nutserts. But like the LOXIN, the grip increases as the load is applied.