Fire in 48 F-1

[48bill]

I had a fire in my daily driven 1948 F-1.  It is a 48 Ford F-1 with a 425 cid Cadillac engine, Centech wiring and Vintage Air a/c.  It was in the 90's temperature wise that day.  The temp gauge showed a little over 190.  We have 10% ethanhol in our gas here in Connecticut.

I don't know the cause.  The fire seemed contained in the carburetor and air cleaner (early caddy style) as the manifold and valve covers weren't even scorched.  It  burned wiring, melted/warped carburetor & air filter , melted battery, melted HEI coil and cap, melted the battery cables, burned through an a/c hose. burned through upper radiator hose, damaged fan and alternator belts and burned the paint off the hood.  Probably some other stuff I don't know yet.  This happened after I returned from some errands and I parked it in the drive way.  I returned an hour later and found the damage  It started and went out by itself.  It could have been a lot worse.

Any ideas on the cause.

The price of driving old stuff daily.  Sh-- Happens--!!!!!

[wayne petty]

carb backfire.. at shut down.. perhaps  a little dieseling../run on because of the heat..

once in a great while.. one finds and ignition system that releases a spark from the coil when the ignition switch is turned off.. this makes the engine jump and can cause a small pop thru the intake and set your world ablaze..

its turned out to be a good thing that you had the OEM style air cleaner assembly.. if you start cleaning it now.. you might catch it before it rusts up if its not melted or distorted..

don't forget to attempt to save parts from the carb.. or at least the numbers stamped into the primary and secondary metering rods.  perhaps the primary main jets.  and the power valve spring if it did not get that hot..

[48bill]

Wayne,
Thanks for the info and tips.  
Almost done with the repairs.  Slowed down with a 3 week vacation with the wife and the 90 degree heat and no shade in my driveway.  The modified roadster project is in the too small garage along with other stuff that homeowners have to keep somewhere.
Thanks again.

[enjenjo]

Did you figure out what caused it?

[58 Yeoman]

I'll have to remember Wayne's tips.  I've got a 425 in my '41 Pontiac, but it's a long way from being on the road.

[48bill]

Did you figure out what caused it?

No.  All sorts of theories but no way of knowing.  Must have started in the carb as the burnt wires were all under the hood and no damage to wiring under the dash or low on the inner fender panels.  Intense heat damaged, burned, the wires that were on a level above the top of the carburetor.

It's a mystery.  Wayne's ideas as good as any one else's.

[wayne petty]

Wayne,
Thanks for the info and tips.  
Almost done with the repairs.  Slowed down with a 3 week vacation with the wife and the 90 degree heat and no shade in my driveway.  The modified roadster project is in the too small garage along with other stuff that homeowners have to keep somewhere.
Thanks again.

can you install some magnets inside the fuel tank somehow..

can you install almost any version of fuel injection type of inline fuel filter just before the mechanical fuel pump.. this prevents any sediment that comes from almost every fuel system and gas stations. from holding the fuel pump check valves open part way reducing the ability of the fuel pump to pull fuel up from the tank.. but even more important to build and maintain fuel pressure in the line to the carb.. ..

what.. i have on so many cars.. and trucks found the fuel pump check valves that did not hold.. when i can blow into the fuel line at the carb.. and make bubbles in the fuel tank, its not a good day..

but the cure is to install one of the many different shapes of inline fuel injection type fuel filters directly before the fuel pump..   then.. on first install if the fuel pump is not brand new never been used also.. i disconnect the ignition so i cannot get any sparks..  disconnect the fuel line at the carb.. and extend the hose.. .. that i direct into a clean clear 2 or 3 liter plastic bottle..  i get somebody to crank the engine for 15 seconds.. while i am looking at the pulses of fuel from the end of the hose.. i sometimes do this 2 or three times..   this full flow test thru a new 10 micron fuel filter will usually surge clean fuel thru the check valves and pump cavity and clean them out.

before i finish .. i do one more thing and this is a tip to remember..

with the engine running now.. the lines all hooked up.  i use a long pair of needle nose pliers to pinch the fuel hose  before the pump..  i then rev the engine up to 2000/2500 rpms to use up the fuel in the float bowls.. harder on a 4 barrel holley.  as the carb runs low you will hear the engine start to stumble. as it leans out..  release the pliers..  the fuel will surge thru the WIDE OPEN needle and seat in the carb and blow out any debris that is trapped in it.  causing the fuel to seep or the carb to flood ..  i perform this 3 or 4 times also..

i normally say to use a fuel filter for a 90 ford ranger.. as they are available at almost any parts store and most mega stores in the automotive department..  there are smaller diameter versions available. i prefer function over style..  this will work with 5/16 or 3/8 fuel hose with clamps..

rangers and other fords have a neat hose clamp to hold the filter to it  and a pair of 8mm studs on the L bracket to mount the fuel filter rigid if you wanted.  only a few bucks from the help your self junk yards.

i have actually found that installing the 10 micro fuel filters results in easier hot starts..  better cold starts as the fuel does not drain back to the tank and need to get pulled up..  

it also cures VAPOR lock..    wait.. WHAT..  remember i mentioned that leaking fuel pump check valves allow the fuel to flow back to the tank.. same effect at the carb.. the fuel line to the carb should have a working check valve in the pump. when not.. the fuel pressure is lost back into the pump. when the temp around the line is enough to cause the fuel in the line to boil..  it will lean out the engine and cause it to overheat. expand and tear up the pistons . it will push the fuel backwards thru the fuel pump and all the way back to the tank..  no fuel.  no engine operation..  

install a decent 10 micron fuel filter before the pump..

if you are worried about sediment in the fuel lines.  disconnect both ends..  blow the lines out. plug the hoses into the tank. so you don't get a bunch of vapors or fuel leaks..    using a NEW universal speedometer core.. a pair of thick palmed leather gloves..  a variable speed reversible power drill.. and a friend. you can use a speedometer cable core like a plumbing snake. if you have a friend holding the power drill with the cable core chucked in and the cable straight while you work it into the fuel lines.. if you spin it in the proper direction.. after you get it in a few feet it will self feed.  the second or third time thru.. bend a few strands on the end open.. so it cleans the inside of the tubing as it spins thru .. i sometimes do this to the far end where it sticks out of the end of the fuel line. then wind it back out with the drill.. you will need to use a garden sprayer or an electric fuel pump to push fuel thru the lines with some flow to rinse them out..