LED Headlights

[teal32]

The headlights in my '40 Chevy don't work worth a darn. When I got it, it already had a conversion to some sort of halogen. I've tried different bulbs with no luck. I assume it's because of the reflector. I've been reading about LED headlights and wondered if anyone has tried them. Thanks for any help.

[UGLY OLDS]

The headlights in my '40 Chevy don't work worth a darn.

 Hi .. If the headlight buckets on your Chevy are stock the car originally came with sealed beams .. ( Just like my Olds) .. You should be able to put  halogen seal beams in the stock headlight buckets ..( As I did on my Olds) ..  
They work just like a late model .....( Well ...A '70's -'80's car anyway )    


Bob ......

[enjenjo]

The conversion that you have, does it use the stock reflectors?

[Charlie Chops 1940]

Take a look at the Daniel Stern Lighting site on line. Part of the problem could be low voltage which can be solved with relays and a hot wire right off your alternator. See his diagrams.

I bought a set of reflector lenses/bulbs from him 7 or 8 years ago that take halogen plug in bulbs and wired them per his diagram. It made a huge difference on my '40 Chevy convert. Around that same time, or whenever Technostalgia came on the scene, I bought a pair of their LED '40 tail lights.

I've been very happy with both companies.

Charlie

[Mac]

My 63 C-10 had halogens when I bought it but the biggest improvement in their function was after I rewired the sockets with 14 ga to the low beam and 12 ga to the high beam circuits.
These run to relays on the core support then to separate fuses on the inner fender, fed but 8ga from the battery.

[wayne petty]

testing headlight power circuits is easy. to see if there is enough current to illuminate the bulb..

this is a multi segment test..  that can and should be performed on almost every car..

engine running.. headlights on..  digital volt meter set to 20 volts DC..

1.  Negative battery post to the positive battery post.. 14.1 to 14.8 is expected.

2.  Negative battery post to the Engine block.. 0.04 volts DC MAX..

3.  Negative battery post to the Body..   0.02 volts DC MAX.

4.  Engine block to the body   0.02 volts DC max.

if you get the 4/100ths or 2/100ths of a volt on the last 3 tests.. and #1 is over 14.1 volts.. you have properly sized and attached battery ground cables ..


now.. to test the headlights..

continue..    


Negative battery post to the Negative terminal on the headlights...  a fairly low reading is expected..   it varies with the thickness of the wire.. but it should be less than 0.2 volts..

Positive battery post to the low beam terminal at the headlight..again.. 0.2 volts.. this may be slightly higher..    0.2 volts is almost a quarter volt..

then do the high beam terminal to the positive battery.. 0.2 volts again..

these headlight voltage readings are generic. what you want to aim below..

if you get more than the 2/10th of a volt.. you need to find out where the resistance is..

hint.. there are a lot more ways to wire headlights than you would imagine..

if one wanted to get creative.. multiple relays can be installed on the positive side of the bulbs.. and also on the negative side of the bulbs..

i don't have anything ready to post currently.. but there are set ups with 2 relays.. 3 relays.. 4 relays and 3 or 4 relays and a day time running light module..


on the upgrades that use OE reflectors..

the depth of the bulb filament into the parabolic reflector is critical..

this is so the reflected light is directed thru the tiny magnifying ridges in the surface of the bulb lense..  same effect on tail lights on some cars..

[Crosley.In.AZ]

LED lights need specific lens - reflectors to focus light. The LED it's self must be a certain high quality item.

This stuff has been heavily discussed in motorcycle forums. There are some real low quality LED lights for bikes out there.

Harley has introduced LED headlights on certain models.  The HD crowd either really like them or hate em.

[Mac]

if one wanted to get creative.. multiple relays can be installed on the positive side of the bulbs.. and also on the negative side of the bulbs.

Excellent diagnostic drill, Wayne

Sheesh. After I put a relay in for each beam I was thinking now I better carry spare relays in the glovebox. More complicated I don't want.  

My old system fed all the amps thru the switch and I figure I brought it up to ...oh mid 70's tech anyway.    

.

[348tripower]

I have LED lights in my COE. I really like them and they are bright. The only draw back is the design of the housing. Not rounded but sharp corners and a flat face. I sometimes thing that is why my truck doesn't get picked for more awards.  I did have to add two relays to make them light up.
Don

[teal32]

Thanks for all of the ideas/suggestions. After the first of the year I'll start by measuring voltages and go from there. I rewired the entire car a few years ago and didn't think to check voltages. I saw the LED Headlights on Watsons Streetrods sight. That's what got me thinking.

[wayne petty]

for a different forum..

i was searching and ran across this..

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Headlights.shtml

does not cover LED .. but a really good read...

[kb426]

Teal32, I tried a halogen conversion in my 32 in the beginning. I had a 30 amp relay for low and the same for high beams. For a blind old guy, they didn't work. I bought a set of halogen standard size bulbs and housings that have a led turn signal in the bottom. The low beam isn't as good as I want but the high beam is almost as good as the new vehicles. I'm probably as good as I will be and still have a 32 Ford with a semi normal looking headlight.