Ford Ranger 5.0 swap questions

[Mac]

I'm helping my son with his engine swap. He's putting an 89 `stang 5.0 in his 93 Ranger 4 cyl. 2WD and he's keeping it EFI. It's getting to the final stages.

I tried until now to make him do all the research and planning but he's up against final wiring and fuel line connections now.

He has the 5.0 engine harness and ECU but he's a bit stalled with how to interface it neat and efficient with the Ranger wiring. I guess in simple terms it's: 12V source to the new engine management system while maintaining 12V to the chassis wiring after removing the 4 cyl. ECU.
But, how best to do it?

The 5.0 still has fuel lines that come down in front of the engine on the pass. side with ends, I suppose are Ford style. He has some lines that come off the tank (on the driver's side) with similiar ends. Question is: how best to join the 2. I'm thinking hard line with short hose sections at the front end. I don't like his idea of hoses the whole way, even braided.
Can we keep the Ford joints somehow, adapt to AN, or flaired or compression fittings?

TIA for any advice.

[enjenjo]

The fuel lines are easy. You can get the ends made on regular fuel line with the proper tools. the Mustang had hoses with the right ends on it that could be used at the engine, then compression fittings and hard lines to the other side. You will probably need to get them from a wrecking yard.

I have not dealt with the combination you are doing, but typically Fords only have about three wires from the car harness to the engine management harness.

[kb426]

Mac, it's been 6 years since I did this and my memory is not functioning. I used hard line as much as possible because the hose was real expensive. I bought some adapters that were Dorman, I think, to go from the hose to the Ford spring ends. There are several websites such as oldfuelinjection that may help you with the conversion of the harness. I used a Painless harness that was used and repaired it on my deal. If you need part numbers, let me know and I'll dig through the folder and see if I can find what you need.

[Mac]

I like that enjenjo. I have a partial coil of 3/8 left from my C-10's fuel plumbing that I can donate. It's that ArmorClad or something coated, from Advance, a little tough to flare.
So what kind of tool to make the Mustang hose fitting joint? Something I probably don't want to buy. What kind of place could  do this service, Ford dealer, speed shop, off road-4wd shop?

........I just talked to my boy's older brother, who's a gearhead too (in a ricer sort of way), and he thinks he might have such a tool thru a new partner. Would this be called a "push lock" fitting or just what on a Ford? And are they metric lines?

Back at the tank the supply line has the external filter in it and the push locks alternate male and female with the return. I guess to keep feed and return from being confused? Is this what makes it simpler to use comp. fittings at this end?

[enjenjo]

I have one of these http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Universal-Hydraulic-Flaring-Tool-Set-Plus-Tube-Cutter-P180525.aspx



That will do it, and that is a pretty good price

[Mac]

I have one of these

Universal-Hydraulic-Flaring-Tool-



That will do it, and that is a pretty good price

My older boy may well have one of these complete flaring sets. He's a couple hour ride away. Well I bookmarked that site anyway. Looks like a good source.

Either you added to your post or I missed the part about junkyard lines.

So you're saying he could get hard lines off a Bronco, Exploder,F150, etc. as long as they're long enough or longer. Re-bend as needed then cut to fit and use comp. fittings back at the tank/filter?

Thanks for the reply and offer, KB

[enjenjo]

I added that, I was cooking supper when I posted. You can also get the female end of those quick connects at most parts stores. So made the male end, and use a store bought female end.

[Mac]

I added that, I was cooking supper when I posted. You can also get the female end of those quick connects at most parts stores. So made the male end, and use a store bought female end.

Gotcha, and thanks.

[wayne petty]

as for the harness...

hmm..

the ranger PCM is mounted in the firewall above the engine...

i think the mustang version is inside the right kick panel..

so he is going to keep the 10 pin connectors shown as its very easy to make them plug and play...
but these are easy to get replacement pins for..

he should be able to mount the mustang computer like the ranger computer is.. and shorten the wiring harness if he cuts and reterminates the wires carefully... it does take a special set of crimpers with almost straight sided U or upside down M shape to crimp the straight sides of the connector from a U shape to a B shape..








below is the engine side of the harness.. he won't need to touch this..



this is a 91 to 93 5.0 diagram.. slightly different that the 89 diagram..  and a warning.. there is a difference between the 5.0EFI and 5.0HO..  the HO motors are sequential fuel injected. where the EFI motors have injectors that are batch fired.. left four then right four..  



please.. don't let him bypass reinstalling the back of the cylinder head to firewall braided ground strap.. fords just don't work quite right without it..


and yes.. splicing the fuel lines is totally possible..

please make sure that he has the proper safety clips still on the ranger frame mounted fuel filter..

[Mac]

Awesome Wayne!!

I was beginning to think you weren't going to weigh in on this.  :|

[wayne petty]

if he is going to shorten the harness and reterminate it ..

he will need something very similar to the T-13 tool on the page below...

http://www.whiteproducts.com/pro_crimpers.shtml

or the T-11 which is the 4th tool on the page below..

or the T-11E which is the 5th tool on the page below.

http://www.whiteproducts.com/cetools.shtml

if you list or send me a PM of what parts store chains are near you..

i may search their site..  these are life time tools that don't get much use..  but when you need them you have to have them..


in fact.. i looked at napa... i looked at MAC tools.. and did not see but one at mac...

here is something i just spotted...

which i am going to buy a set next time i am in that store.. this one is under 10 bucks..

buy this one..  its perfect for the crimp job he is about to do..

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/CT-1/CRIMP-TOOL/1.html

[32 Chevy]

Geez, I wish I had seen that wiring diagram years ago when I put a 5.0 HO into my 56 ford Ranchwagon. I spent many frustrating hours.... Days... trying to figure it out.

[Mac]

OK Wayne, he's got it pretty much worked out with the process of elimination. The couple of connectors not sorted are #'s 30 and 31 shown above in your diagram.

30 is marked "self test input". Could this connect to the under dash OBD port? A wild guess here.

31 is marked "brown 8 pin" and he has no clue for this one.

I'll be ordering the crimping tool from AllElec. Do you happen to know if they stock the types of terminal ends (pins) he might need? And how to describe them??

Thanks

[kb426]

As I understand, you're using the Mustang wiring harness. If that is correct, 30 is a white/pink or a blue yellow wire. That runs to neutral start. 31 is listed as gray yellow, canister purge solenoid. I don't have one of those so I'm not much help.

[Mac]

As I understand, you're using the Mustang wiring harness. If that is correct, 30 is a white/pink or a blue yellow wire. That runs to neutral start. 31 is listed as gray yellow, canister purge solenoid. I don't have one of those so I'm not much help.

Duh, I see now that the last diagram uses the same reference numbers. Don't know why they call 30 "self test" when it's neutral safety switch?Thanks!