Installing new filler neck in new fuel tank (steel)

[Crosley.In.AZ]

this Monte I am working on, the fuel tank has rust inside. I can buy new tank with and without a filler neck.  new filler neck available separate

I was wondering how the neck would install by a DIY person?  Does not look like a rubber  O-ring is used and the neck would push in.  

Seems like a serious sealer would be needed and to drive the neck into the tank without bending it

[wayne petty]

fuel tank filler neck seals are a SPLIT grommet..

so some can just be pushed in..   what year are you working on???

i though most of the gm versions were installed with low melting point silver bearing solder..


think of something like a paint stripping hot air gun with the nozzles on it to direct heat to melt the solder.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=heat+gun

if you have rust in the old tank..

please take some time and toss a strong magnet into the new tank...   any rust left loose in the system will be attracted to the magnet and stay out of the fuel pump and out of the fuel filters..

if its a fuel injected with an in tank pump.. this will greatly increase the fuel pump life.. as fuel pumps are cooled with gasoline pumped thru them.. any rust that gets thru the strainer and it does.. will hang up on the magnets inside the pump..


i know that you know about using a leaf blower on blow or a shop vacuum on blow into the tank to lower any vapor concentration if you have to solder on the tank ..

not suction for the readers. as there are brushes in the vacuum cleaner motors and any fuel vapors can turn your vacuum into the ran jet..


a friend many years ago.. had a tank of Liquid CO2.. that was used for soda dispensers..  he used that  to fill and displace oxygen from gas tanks for soldering..

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Wayne;  1983 Monte Carlo.  Lots of surface rust in the tank.  

Seems like a low temp solder or silver solder material would be used

I figure by the time i buy the chemicals and treat the rust, then coat the interior of the tank.  I can buy a new tank for a few dollars more.  Although , I doubt the new tank has baffles in them

[wayne petty]

hmm... i took a look around.. i guess that you already have the replacement tank.. without the filler neck...

seems that for the 83  MC they are available both ways..

Spectra Premium/Fuel Tank
Part Number: GM306A
Alternate Part Number: SPGM306A
Warranty: 3 YR
Application: With filler neck
Notes: Lock ring kit included

Spectra Premium/Fuel Tank
Part Number: GM3A
Alternate Part Number: SPGM3A
Warranty: 3 YR
Application: Without filler neck
Notes: Lock ring kit included



Spectra Premium/Fuel Tank Filler Neck
Part Number: FN06
Alternate Part Number: GM3-1
Warranty: Limited Lifetime


Dorman/Fuel Tank Filler Neck
Part Number: 577-006
Warranty: 1 YR

but then i find this place also.. but its probably cheeper to buy directly from a local parts chain when you figure in the shipping..

http://www.tanks-to-pans.com/site/823208/page/440825


i don't know what spectra recommends for solder.. i expect some kind of answer soon..


this info won't help you yet.. but i was thinking about it last night while watching the le mans race..

[enjenjo]

I have a large electric soldering iron I use on fuel tanks. No flame, no sparks.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

hmm... i took a look around.. i guess that you already have the replacement tank.. without the filler neck...

1983 Monte Carlo:

Nope.  I have not bought any fuel tank with or without a filler neck.

I was looking at cleaning the tank till I learned a new one was not much more than proper cleaning & sealing materials.  I am also worried about the special formula gasolines goofing up a chemical liner inside a tank.

Shipping is a concern, yet I find several places that include shipping in the price of the tank.

[idrivejunk]

I would take my new and old tanks to a local radiator shop, they should be able to make the neck swap for cheap.  But I would also rather buy the complete tank with neck.

You can also hook a tailpipe to a tank if you don't have a leaf blower, to keep gases moving thru it while you do some risky work or chop out the old neck area. Thats if the radiator shop won't remove the neck for you.

[58 Yeoman]

Way back in the 90's, I cleaned the tank for my Yeoman, and sealed it with stuff from Eastwood (I think that's where I got it).  It has held up nicely all these years.  The tank in the '58 is U-shaped; try to find a repop of one of those.

On the '41 Pontiac, the tank was full of pinholes, and I couldn't find a new one (everyone told me that Pontiac was different from Chevies), so I took it to a place in Rockford, IL that completely cleaned it and sealed it inside and out for around $300 at that time.  It was in the very early part of the century. LOL.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

1983 Monte Carlo fuel tank:

Thanks guys...  as usual your posts got me thinking.

I decided to mess woth what I have before purchase new parts.

I washed the inside with a product called "Oil Eater" I buy at Costco. Water and that chemical.

I bought 2 gallons of pool acid (muriatic). I poured the acid and water into the tank mixed 1- 1.  I put in chain chain and nails. I read nails worked well for this because of sharp edges on the nails. I rolled the tank around for quite some time.

I washed out the tank with water a few times.  I added baking soda & water to neutralize the acid.  Did that 5 times.

I added some Marvel Mystery oil to the tank, rolled the tank over n over n over.  

Looks purty good inside. Will post pics this evening.

I scrubbed up the fuel guage sending unit.  Had to disassemble, clean it good.  The gauge reads well, the needle is most smooth moving.  First time I tested, the needle was very erratic .

);b(

  :T)

[wayne petty]

a huge hint that you might want to perform..


a speedometer cable core pushed into the fuel lines..

a variable speed battery powered drill chucked onto one end..

THICK PALMED leather gloves..

two people..

you can if you keep the cable core straight.. actually spin it slowly with the power drill while the other person pushes it in .. the twist of the cable strands will pull it in ...

after you go thru a few times.. and get it all the way out the front..  open the strands slightly.. then spin it as you extract it..

i have thought about having a TEE with hose barbs...  with a short section or even a long section of hose attached to branches of the tee... so i can pump solvent or some liquid into the side outlet of the tee.. with the cable core going thru a section that has several hose clamps tightened slightly over the cable core... so it will still spin.. but not leak a lot of the fluid out that way...  this would really give the line a power flush and clean out..

using a new universal speedometer core may prevent strands from ripping the palm of your hand open ..

and before anybody says its impossible.. i have done this about a dozen times.. but i worked as a plumber when i first got out of high school decades ago.  this is far easier than pushing a whipping plumbing snake down a drain while standing ankle deep in floaters..


one will want to rig a combo liquid and an air blast device when done..

replacing the fuel lines is easier sometimes..
other times this is just a short cut to get the car running while lines are ordered...


please throw some magnets into the fuel tanks to attract any loose rust that comes from the tank.. sending units.. gas stations..

i blew out a fuel filter into my white drain pan... i then dropped a magnet into the sediment...




i pushed it with my finger and it attracted the sediment.

[58 Yeoman]

Tony, people have told me to strap/tie/tape/whatever the gas tank to an electric cement mixer and spin it slowly to clean out gas tanks.  Mine was U-shaped, so I don't think it would've worked on mine.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

tank is fairly clean. A few more parts and I can re-assemble

[enjenjo]

That came out pretty nice Tony. My favorite tank gunk is Red Cote   http://damonq.com/red-kote.html

[Crosley.In.AZ]

That came out pretty nice Tony. My favorite tank gunk is Red Cote   http://damonq.com/red-kote.html

thanks Frank, looks like good stuff. I amy need it in future.  With new % of gasoline additives the Gubmint is changing, I worry about the product failure and gum up the whole works

I have the fuel tank back in the car.  I added magnets (3) in the tank as Wayne mentioned.  Added xtra fuel filter inline, blew fule line out with brake clean flush too.

This car is not a return line type setup with 3 hoses on fuel pump.  Kinda simple.

Got the brakes back together on the car. Will put belts , hoses on today.  The CCC type Carb will be last item I finish

[Crosley.In.AZ]

That came out pretty nice Tony. My favorite tank gunk is Red Cote   http://damonq.com/red-kote.html

thanks Frank, looks like good stuff. I amy need it in future.  With new % of gasoline additives the Gubmint is changing, I worry about the product failure and gum up the whole works

I have the fuel tank back in the car.  I added magnets (3) in the tank as Wayne mentioned.  Added xtra fuel filter inline, blew fule line out with brake clean flush too.

This car is not a return line type setup with 3 hoses on fuel pump.  Kinda simple.

Got the brakes back together on the car. Will put belts , hoses on today.  The CCC type Carb will be last item I finish

I see O'Reily auto carrys it...  I've bought various items from local O'Reilys. They've had the parts on hand in store for this ol 1983 Monte