questions on Front axle set up

[chimp koose]

I am about to start building the 4 bar front end on the T coupe and I need to clear up a few questions. I want to use coil over shocks in front of the axle. I have a 4" drop tube axle and a set of bat wings. I will likely purchase the bolt on style of lower shock mounts that go under the axle where the spring perches would attach unless someone can suggest something different that I might try.Since I will not be using a buggy spring ,what is acceptable to use for the attachment of the batwing to the axle in place of the spring perches?. Can I machine up tapered collars to fit the taper from each side of the axle mounts on the batwing? How are the shock mounts held in alignment ? Is it just by the fastener torque or am I missing some kind  of alignment fixture? Next question. My frame copies the original in dimensions LxW with 2x3 1/8 wall tubing. This means there is no front to rear taper of the frame ,the frame rails run parallel front to rear.The holes for the batwings are 32" CtoC and framerails are 23" to outside edges.I will be going full fendered so the rear 4bar mounts will be under the framerail. Is it better to keep the batwings aiming straight back and use angled rod ends to narrow down to the frame width at the back mount or just angle the batwings and rear mounts to match each other? Again, are the batwings position maintained by fastener torque or some type of fixture? I am leaning towards angling the batwings and rear 4bar mounts to match each other as I think the geometry would be better . I will be using a front panhard rod attached to the frame on driver side and to the axle on lower batwing hole on passenger side. I will attempt to use cross steer with steering rod as close to the same length as panhard rod as is possible.If I angled the batwings toward the frame I was thinking I could machine an angled spacer to fit in the space between the back of the axle and the batwing to keep it in position. Is this necessary or a waste of time? Lastly, 32" bars, would there be any benefits or problems going longer ? Good idea or waste of time? Basically I would like this car to ride nice without looking too 'industrial'. thanks for your input.

[enjenjo]

Does the axle have perch pin holes or not?

[GPster]

Just some comments on your ideas. I think the axels from '32 to '36 are supposed to be the same. '35 and '36 front ends had the spring in front of the axel. Maybe the perch (?) bolts on them would be long enough to capture the bolt on shock mounts so you wouldn't have to make them. The axels from '35 til '48 had the spring in the front. I think the diameter and taper is the same for the perch (?) bolt on axels til '48 so maybe there is something there. Those bolt-on shock mounts are intended for the shocks so they don't suspend the weight of the front end like a coil-over does. I would think the strength is there and the bolt is strong enough but maybe the twisting force of the vehicle's weight might cause movement. Maybe after you get all your angles layed out you could cut matching key ways in the bolt, batwing and shock mount. With those bolt-on mounts made to be used for shocks are they long/wide enough to keep a coil-over shocks larger diameter far enough away from the axel? That panhard rod is not going to be very long if your frame is only 23" wide. I'd think that I'd try to design an addition to the batwing. That way you wouldn't be expecting those two bolts to take on extra duty. Then again you could use stock style perch bolts and install them from the bottom. Mount the coil-overs and the panhard rod from the mounts of the perch bolt. GPster

[chimp koose]

Lucky 7 axle ,4" drop with forged ends welded to 2" dom tube,perch holes are32" on center. 46" between king pins. GPster I will be able to have a panhard rod about 28" long. I want to try a cross steer using a r&p steering so the length from inner tie rod to the pass side steering arm will be close to the same 28" length and hopefully close to the same angle as well to get as near to zero bump steer as possible. A 28" panhard mounted horizontally will have a sideways movement of less than1/8" in 2" of upward travel.After posting last night I went to the speedway site and found their lower shock mounts to have a keyway in them. I also found castellated nuts with a taper matching the batwings on them.I could just machine gr8 bolts with the taper on the underside of the bolt head,and a matching keyway,then machine the same taper into some castellated gr8 nuts as well.I could also broach a keyway into the perch holes to keep the bolt from turning but I wonder if that would be necessary.I have seen coil over shocks used with this style of mount before but I guess that doesnt mean they work well. Anyone have experience with this? Also as far as the strength is concerned this car will probably weigh 1200 -1400 lb. on the front axle, the race wagon I work on has weighed as much as 3800lb less driver and has wheelied 200' out on the same rear shocks and single shear bolt size used in these mounts.I had never thought of using perch mounts upside down untill you suggested it. I am going to have to give that idea some thought. Thanks for your response.

[enjenjo]

I would suggest the perch pins upside down as shock mounts, or custom made batwings with a shock bracket integrated in the batwing. I do not have a lot of faith in the keyed shock mounts, I have seen too many loosen up, even without a spring added into the mix.

[chimp koose]

Thank you again GPster and enjenjo. I appreciate getting advice from those who have 'been there ,done that'. I had entertained the thought of putting the shocks behind the axle mounted with a bracket off the lower 4bar bolt but it might look odd and could get tight as far as steering and panhard placement.