One question to keep me from having to do too much research.

[GPster]

The saga of the middle Jeep (or me writting so much about little problems) continues. Two months ago I thought it was getting cold enough that if I was going to drive it I'd better get the heater fan working so I'd have a defroster for the windshield. The switch was questionable but then I found out that there was no Acc. power from the switch to the fuse panel. When I started sorting it out I found the under-dash wiring so bad that it was going to require major fixing. No more coordinated than I am I thought it would help to remove the seats and I wanted the driver's seat to sit higher and more upright and the passenger seat had better upolstery so I went to work. Of the 8 bolts that needed removed at the start 2 were missing and I broke 3 of the remaining 6. I still had 8 bolts to remove the seats from their mounting frames and I broke 7 of them. As long as things were going this way I thought about using some other seats. I happened upon 2 front seats out of a '90s something FWD Pontiac Grand ? that were available and they were already out. The driver's seat has power adjustment that will work at making me sit up-right and higher but the wires were cut. There is a black wire and an orange wire with a black tracer. I don't see any connection to make me think the negative comes from the seat being grounded so I'd think the black wire is negative and the orange is power (+) or am I missing something and there are two positives and the seat is getting negative from being grounded. I'm having more trouble getting this seating situation fixed than I will (I hope) getting the defroster fan to run. GPster

[crdnblu]

Just about every 90's GM power seat that I have seen has been wired w/ a 12-10 orange (or red) 12V source, and the same size black / black-yellow trace wire for ground.  Additionally, the power seat motors typically have a high amp draw requiring a separate 30 amp fuse for safe operation.

[wayne petty]

these are for a Y2K grand am... or olds alero... perhaps they will help...

it also shows a 25 Amp circuit breaker for a circuit protection device..

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/24/30/6d/large/0996b43f8024306d.gif


http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/24/30/6c/large/0996b43f8024306c.gif

[GPster]

Planning ahead (if my thoughts on the wiring were correct) I was going to put the wiring on a cigarette lighter plug. The number of times that the seat position would be changed would be minimal because I can't see anyone wanting to be (or would care to be) comfortable in this vehicle. I purchased a new cigarette lighter receptical for it in case I would want accessory power for anything or if my use for this vehicle was so minimal that I wanted to use a "Trickle" battery charger on it. I'l make sure that the cigarette lighter is wired with sufficiently heavy wire andfuse the the wire from the seat. Now to see how far I get with this modification before I break something else. GPster

[wayne petty]

thats a BRILLIANT IDEA...

part time use accessories on a lighter power plug...

one could even just install the lighter plug on the unit under the seat and use one of the curly cord lighter extensions.. to power it up when needed..

[GPster]

Thanks for the comment. That suggestion might make it Brillanter. Here's hoping the brilliant doesn't come from it being up in flames. GPster

[wayne petty]

that would put both of us in the HOT SEAT.... :oops:

[GPster]

Planning ahead (if my thoughts on the wiring were correct) I was going to put the wiring on a cigarette lighter plug.  I'l make sure that the cigarette lighter is wired with sufficiently heavy wire and fuse the the wire from the seat.  GPster

Now the cigarette lighter receptical will be wired with #10 ga wire and it looks like the seat is wired with #10 ga wire. Wiring diagrams show the seat fused at 25 amps. Fiest shot at finding a plug end to make this work shows a replcement plug only good for 12 amps. Any ideas where I can find a plug up to the job? GPster

[wayne petty]

good point...

but..   you will probably ONLY need to run the seats for a few seconds..

just don't touch the end contact.. after unplugging it. they tend to get hot after extended use..


perhaps its just easier to run a power wire for it..

under the carpet. if you use some quality wire.    you can continue the circuit to the trunk to power things there...   like an aux air compressor robbed from an air ride ford...   be sure to get a section of the 3/16 nylon hose with the air drier.. so you can use a compression fitting to connect it to your quick connect or air tank..

[GPster]

CARPET? I went back into the wiring diagram and the heaviest fuse is only 20 amps. Then I noticed that the stock cigarette lighter was only on #16 wire and it goes through the fuse box and ignition switch so the charging trick would only work with the Key on anyway. Maybe I'll tone down my ideas until I clean up what I have. I took the seat out so I could work on the wiring easier and that created this mess. While I was at it I pulled the steering wheel and trying to straighten that out steered me to another question. I'd better slow down but I didn't think I could get any slower. GPster

[wayne petty]

its so easy to run a circuit breaker and a 10 or 12 gauge wire to a power socket removed from some late model donor car in the junk yard..

you might want to put a terminal block up under the dash anyway... with a terminal block robbed off a chevy truck or a caddyshack...

caddyshacks in the early to mid 90s... have the fusible links all attached to a 10MM stud in a plastic clamshell..  uses a 15 MM socket to remove the nut.. and a 7 mm socket to remove the clam shell to body fasteners..

they come in red or black.. sometimes the black version is hidden..

chevy trucks small and full size have a single or dual stud terminal block on the firewall above the passenger side valve cover..