GM type steering column break-down view.

Started by GPster, July 08, 2011, 07:10:36 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

GPster

The steering column in my '80 CJ7 Jeep looks to be of GM manufacture but the more I look at it the more question I have that it might be the wrong on the stop/position in the gear selector (automatic trans). The selector seems to be sloppy and this sloppyness may be part of what is keeping the neutral safeth swich and back-up light swith from working correctly. The column is a different color than everything else in th dash and there is an after market steering wheel on it and the horn doesn't work so it is a mis-matched mess. The key is in the column so it's newer than '68 (?) but there are no extra functions off the directional switch so it's older than ?. The transmission gear selector (three speed automatic) is in the column but the gear indicator is on top of the column like a van rather than in the dash. It may be a Jeep column and out of some bodies spares but so many parts of other assemblies are missing I'd like to see a parts break down of this thing so I know what should be there befor I take it apart. Anyone got a usefull site for these columns in their favorites? GPster

model a vette

I don't know anything about jeep columns but I have swapped several columns into my '88 Celebrity and I've had a couple of them apart.
On the columns I disassembled there was a detent that was screwed inside the column. I tried to use a 3sp auto tilt column in my 4 sp auto without tilt. The detents were different (duh!) but they did swap from one column to the other.
Ed

GPster

I've had tilt columns apart before. Now that you mention it I remember the detent. It almost feels like there isn't one in there. The shift Park Reverse Neutral feels like the devision is only in the transmission and Neutral to Drive takes so much force that you end up clear to Low. Park is where it should be but now I'm also wondering if the Neutral Safety/Back-up Light Switch is slipping out of it's slot in the shift tube because maybe a lower bearing is bad/missing. Years ago I had a deal with a local junk yard for half what I sold his tilt columns for at swap meets-+. I got good at working on them nut I've never had a regular column apart. I had more nerve when I was younger. GPster

model a vette

I've been buying my columns from a self serve yard in Pa for years.
He only charges $15 for a column, including tilt and tilt/tele.
I've only met his price once at a swap meet.
Ed

wayne petty

85 /89 astro van tilt column exploded view and parts list with interchange if you click the part numbers

http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=1985&artnbr=TX06-093&artsfx=NULL&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=52M&modelcode=M&makecode=LC&modelseries=NULL&uid=1&modelid=6485&capuid=1&majorgroup=06&grouptype=B


82 to 86 S10 blazer... tilt column...


http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=1983&artnbr=T6-86&artsfx=NULL&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=52S&modelcode=S&makecode=LC&modelseries=NULL&uid=1&modelid=6999&capuid=1&majorgroup=06&grouptype=B


82 to 90 S10 blazer standard column...

http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=1983&artnbr=TA06-003&artsfx=5&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=52S&modelcode=S&makecode=LC&modelseries=NULL&uid=1&modelid=6999&capuid=1&majorgroup=06&grouptype=B

there are earlier versions but only a few part numbers listed...

as for the jeep column...

one question.. does it have a lever to release the key from the off but NOT locked position..  lever key release... i know that some jeeps had this...

got any pictures of the switches on the column.?????  yea i know its raining..

i have found some gm cars that the tip on the end of the gear shift lever where it sticks into the shifter detent plate... have worn off...

do you still feel spring tension holding the gear shift lever away from the steering wheel...    can you move the gear shift lever between gears without pulling it toward the steering wheel....


edit.. here is one thats even closer...

82 to 85 chevy citation.. tilt column.. column shift...

http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=1982&artnbr=GM06-046&artsfx=NULL&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=17W&modelcode=X&makecode=C&modelseries=XA&uid=1&modelid=1147577277&capuid=1&majorgroup=06&grouptype=B


item 53 is the gate... device you might be thinking of

053   07839141    GATE, SHFT LVR




double edit...

just found an ONLINE jeep manual that shows the exact section you need to work on the shift gate... and shift bowl..

http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=163

GPster

It's a non- tilt (standard but not to be confused with standard transmission) column. It does not have the key lock lever but does have a 4-way flasher. That one S10 picture is good and it's a shame that when I mounted the S10 tilt column that I acquired for the Jeepster I stripped the old S10 column for it's switches and junked it. But I did save the steering wheel and horn mechanism so if those newer parts fit in the older column I'm halfway there. That Jeep site is for a Cherokee but it shows the GM type column. It also shows that shift selector and gives instructions how to remove it. Thanks for that bunch of stuff. I'll have to move the Jeep (and mow the grass) before I get in to it. Maybe I'll need my wife to enlarge it and print it. GPster

348tripower

Check for a module on the passenger side of the trans. This controls the neutral safety and the backup lights. I have one of these and we have to wiggle the shifter most times to get it to start. They are kind of pricey so I have not fixed it.
Don
Don Colliau

348tripower

I should add that mine is a 1993 vintage.
Don Colliau

GPster

Quote from: "348tripower"I should add that mine is a 1993 vintage.
Well, with this being an '80 it's an AMC (Rambler). Now I know where to look but I don't know what kind of transmission is in it. This is the first year for the Quadratrack. This thing has a crossmember that doubles as a crash pan. I had four wires in the harness that are shown going to the switch and with Wayne picture only showing three it looked like it should be to the column but then again maybe it's an earlier column. I tried looking at the '84 to '86 diagram but it's for a SMOG set-up so it's four pages long. The '80 has some smog stuff but it doesn't even have a Cat. converter. Maybe I'll put a later model seat in it so that it won't start unless someone is sitting in the seat. GPster

GPster

OK I turned the page on my wiring diagrams and it shows the missing harness. There are three wires that go to the switch that must be on the transmission and the fourth wire must go to the transfer case for an indicator that tells you you're in 4WD  (I thought Quadratrack was in 4WD
all the time). There evidently is a back-up light swith on/for standard transmissions and they must not have any safety because that wire doesn't go anywhere. That would explain the reason why there are two starter solenoids show on the under hood diagrams. Oh well my spare battery isn't up to all these wire so I'll have to go by a new one. GPster

GPster

Well, scanning Jeep CJ7 parts diagrams they never used a switch on the steering column for neutral safety/back-up lights. Someone must have put a GM column in this vehicle. I'l just continue trying to wire it like a GM because i don't have the Jeep harness and so much other stuff is missing anyway. That might explain why the shifter acts funny. The column shift quadrant is probably for a  GM transmission not a Chrysler yransmission. Bought a new battery for it today from Advance Auto. Had a $30.00 off a purchase over $75.00 coupon so it was cheaper than Walmart. Started it up this morning on the old battery and the charger and moved it so I could mow it's spot. Now it's raining so I can't mow and I don't even want to put the new battery in it. GPster

wayne petty

if you want to put the neutral safety switch back on the column... PARK is always in the same spot...

neutral moves slightly.. ever so slightly...

the shift gates can be switched easily...

which transmission are you running....   i will look around see if i can find a matching neutral safety switch ...

i would really like to have a picture of the one thats in there.. so i can find the correct version for your column brackets..

you can remove the neutral switch.. once it stops raining.. and lay it on a flat bed scanner..   take a photocopy of it...   take a digital photo of it..

i would like both sides...  if it shows how its mounted and the type of configuration to connect to the inside of the column... most have a pin that slides into the bottom...


http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/additional-prod-images/en/US/wl2/DR457/9/image/4/

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/additional-prod-images/en/US/wl2/DR457/8/image/4/

OR

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/additional-prod-images/en/US/wl2/DR411/2/image/4/

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/DR411/image/4/

OR this twisted one...

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/additional-prod-images/en/US/wl2/DR419/14/image/4/

OR

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/additional-prod-images/en/US/wl2/DR423/14/image/4/

there are even home made looking versions... that cost 70 bucks..

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/SW7478/image/4/

i am taking that you have noticed there are several different mounting patterns.. and lever types...

GPster

OK I'm working on my Doctorate Degree in the "DUMB" book. The switch is closest to the third and forth examples. It only has four terminals, two for neutral safety "N" and two for back-up lights "R" . It only has two holes in the back for securing the switch in the right position for the intended gear position of the column, one N for neutral and one P for park and the terminals marked for N only make contact at those intended positions. The R terminals only make contact at a place between P and N. I have put a wire to ground from one of the N terminals so that when that contact closes it would complete the ground for the starter solenoid. Now for the dumbness. When I remounted the switch on the column I had placed a wire in the P locating hole to position the switch properly . When I pulled the switch today that wire was still there doing it's job. The contacts on the switch still work. This would of course enplain why it was so hard to run the gear selecter on the column through it's gears. The mounting of the switch must be stressed now (I know I am) so later I'll try to put it together correctly and see. GPster

GPster

Well , the switch works in the indicated podition. The problem is that's not where the gears are. I thought it would be an easy job to adjust the linkage until I crawled under it today. The guy I bought it from told me what a job he had getting it to go in gear and I didn't understand until now. Everything is bent and the adjustment is on the ragged edge at the end of the shift rod. All because of the 1 1/2" body lift. Because I put the suspension back to stock I need to leave the body lift in to allow the 31" tires that it's now sitting on. This also explains why the neutral safety switch had been bypassed. All the thoughts that an odd steering column had been installed and the fact that no neutral safety/back-up light switch like what was on the column was shown in any replacement parts catalogs has been rectified. The Haynes repair book that I have has the installed column and switch pictured with  the note saying it's a typical CJ Jeep with automatic transmission. Unfortunately, the fact that no one acknowledges that column makes hard to find parts for it like the rubber bushings for the shift rods. Things don't look any better or worse, just different. GPster

wayne petty

which transmission do you have...

is this the jeep with the swapped engine???  



is the rod straight sided down by the side of the transmission where is slides through a pinch bolt type of adjustment..????


how about a longer shift rod???    something out of another car in the junk yards if you have one near....

do you have another section... you can chop off a piece and chop off a few inches of the existing rod... either thread both pieces or cut and grind them to a dull point then weld them end to end and grind them down so it will slip through the adjustable end...

i guess i could just jump in my van and drive over...

got pictures so i can save a few hundred bucks in gas...???