Removing Screws From '37 Ford Windshield

crdnblu · February 22, 2011, 12:54:23 PM

My apologies, if I've posted this B/4, but I'm still struggling with removing screws on my windshield so that it may be rebuilt. I'm past the penetrating oil phase, and I'm left with a number of broken screw heads....

For you veteran builders out there, what's the secret to removing the remaining part of the screws? The screw bodies are too small for any screw extractors that I've seen. My only thought @ this point is break out the trusty Dremel, knowing that I'm going to have to enlarge, & re-thread the holes anyway.

HELP! Any & all suggestions will be appreciated.

enjenjo · February 22, 2011, 01:10:26 PM

Are the screws blind or can you see the back side? Flat head or? how large are they, 8-32 or? What are we saving, just the frame or?

rooster · February 22, 2011, 02:20:06 PM

I had this problem also, cant remember what I did, cant find a post from that long ago! Old RRT!

crdnblu · February 22, 2011, 04:36:48 PM

Enjenjo......The screws are RUSTED 10-32 flat head with a beveled shoulder. After my post this AM, I decided to bite the bullet, & I dugout the remaining shanks with a Dremel carbide bit.

Now the question turns to: What is the best way to re-thread the cleaned out holes to 10-24, if possible, or must I go to 1/4-20?

enjenjo · February 22, 2011, 06:27:58 PM

Are they through holes? If so, you can install 10-32 helicoils.

rooster · February 22, 2011, 07:26:06 PM

I think the windshild is joined be a piece of steel, if you have the screw heads gone you can pull it apart( that was a bear for me). The other side of frame is stainless unremovable, the screws do not go through.

I choped mine and had to make new supportsand drill new holes.

crdnblu · February 23, 2011, 11:15:08 AM

Enjenjo: They aren't through-holes stock, but some are now, due to my zeal in removing the screw bodies w/ my Dremel bit. Fortunately, I was able to preserve most, if not all of the threads in the holes, so I'll re-tap the holes w/ a well-lubed 10-32 tap. We'll see the outcome.....

Rooster: I could see the blocks holding the screws, & now have one side pulled apart; working on the other. Like you said, a bear, so more penetrating oil, & gentle hammer taps.
So, the outer stainless isn't removable on the Deluxe windshield frame? If not, what's the best way to clean out the glass channel, to prep for rust-proofing, primer, & paint? I'm assuming elbow grease, & wire-brushing........Any other tips?

rooster · February 23, 2011, 03:13:21 PM

Rooster:
So, the outer stainless isn't removable on the Deluxe windshield......Any other tips?[/quote]

I can't remember if its removable, Dennis Carpenter refurs to this piece being chrome though. If I didnt remove it, I was probely afraid I was going to * it up.

I think I sandblasted mine.

"40" or "Pep" Should be well informed about this. Maybe they can chime in!!!

crdnblu · March 01, 2011, 04:03:09 PM

Thanks for all the replies, & info. I decided to spend more time attacking the windshield frame with my trusty Dremel tool, & very small carbide burrs. The surgery was successful; all screws were removed, & the threads were able to be re-tapped to 10-32.

One of the two frame junction blocks came out successfully as well; the other was so severely rusted that it broke @ the mounting screw holes, & had to be dug out. I decided to order some 5/16 square stock, & make new blocks, since I have one for a sample pattern. I'm now awaiting the arrival of the bar stock to proceed with the frame rebuild.

With the help of a magnet, I have determined that the ENTIRE windshield frame is indeed steel. What I thought was a stainless outer rim, is chrome!

Can anyone familiar with sand or media blasting tell me if it's possible to blast the the backside of the windshield frame, while protecting the chrome face? I will have the windshield frame re-chromed, but I'd like to preserve the face, as it is in very good shape, & should take plating well, without any filling.
Thanks......

kb426 · March 01, 2011, 06:13:16 PM

If you put multiple layers of tape on what you want to save and use a small nozzle so you limit the area sprayed, you can be successful. With a large or wore out nozzle, you need to be real careful. I'm glad you're making progress. I put my 32 frame in the mill and machined out the messed up screws. Mine was flat and easy.

40 · March 01, 2011, 09:24:07 PM

Sorry I'm too late checking in to offer any advice......sounds like you have it whipped. I have been engaged in a similar battle a couple of times but it's been a while.....on the last few 37's I've skipped the frame and glued the windshield in using a moulding similar to an S-10.....I must have 2 or 3 frames stashed in the corner of the shop.In fact,I just made a glass pattern today for the 37 at the paint shop.I still need to add a 1/2" or so around the opening to provide enough surface to hold the glass....it's a real pain....Sure wish there was an easier way! Good Luck!