Trim fastening

enjenjo · December 30, 2009, 07:19:35 PM

I am making some dash trim. It's brass, half round, 1/4" wide, 1/8" thick. I don't want to use trim tape. Any ideas on how to secure it in a way that it can be removed later without damaging it? Oh, it also has to be plated.

Charlie Chops 1940 · December 30, 2009, 07:39:41 PM

Haven't done this, but how about small brass studs made from screws with the heads cut off, a shallow pilot hole on the back side of the trim and then silver solder the screw in the hole. Should be fine for plating...or maybe I don't know from squat about plating???

Charlie

butch27 · December 30, 2009, 08:25:05 PM

Silicone?

34ford · December 30, 2009, 10:40:50 PM

I went to the local trophy shop and got some of there 3m tape that they put plaques on trophies with. It looks like scotch tape, clear and real thin. Sticks really well. I figured I could heat the piece with a heat gun on low and remove it if need be. they actually gave me two different kinds. it was the end of the roll so it was FREE.

bc

ragdol · December 30, 2009, 11:02:58 PM

I polished the trim made of brass about the same thickness as yours that was drilled & tapped. Studs were then inserted. These parts weren't plated ,but were cleared. They were for the '47 Ford coupe built for Bill Block by Vic Cappelletti in Milwaukee, WI. Larry

enjenjo · December 31, 2009, 07:47:32 PM

I am afraid RTV will be too permanent. The trophy tape has possibilities, I don't know how it will be affected by the enviroment. I'll look in to it. I like both Charlie's and Ragdol's ideas. I'll check with the plater to see if silver solder will cause a problem, I know there have been problems for me in the past with it, but it may have been in the dechroming process. I am leaning toward a combination of the two, drilling a through hole, tapping it, installing a stud, and the silver soldering from the top, and filing to shape. I don't think I can reliably tap a blind hole less than 1/8" deep. A Low temperature brazing alloy may be a possibility too.

These will be trim on a dash, and a color change in the future is planned, that is the reason for making it easily removeable.

Leon · December 31, 2009, 08:16:09 PM

I wouldn't rely on the tape, over the years a lot of the plaques and trophies I've gotten over the years have lost their brass plates. I'll walk into the shop and see them on the floor, when they used to be up on the wall. So now I drill a small hole in them and tack the plate to the wood base with a brass tack to hold it when the tape gives way.

UGLY OLDS · January 01, 2010, 01:16:02 PM

Frank..... At the risk of sounding "hokey".... A lot of the small interior trim in the Ugly Olds came OE with a small metal "tab" attached to the back of the trim.... This tab was inserted through a small "slot" & folded over to secure the trim in place.......

:?: :?:

Bob.......

zzebby · January 02, 2010, 12:18:01 AM

Enjenjo, we do this sort of thing at work often. Use the silver solder with the white powder flux. Use lots of flux, it washes off later with hot water. We find it easier to make a ring of silver solder, like a split lock washer. Just wrap it around a rod in a slow turning drill or drill press and then split it with an exacto knife. Drill the brass trim to just clear the major of the brass stud but do not drill thru. You have a mill or drill press. Just drill but do not break through. Saves the filing later. You can buy brass studs, try Mcmaster carr. We usually silver solder brass to brass even though you can solder a steel stud in.
Set it all up with the brass stud up, the silver solder ring around the stud and then use your o/a torch from the bottom. You can watch it flow. Plating is easy, but you can have a problem with the solder dissolving if the plater needs to strip and replate. Not always, just depends on the stripper. Fine if he does it right the first time. We have only had the problem once and then just resoldered them and the plater knew what not to do the next time. I assume you'll do chrome over nickel over copper flash.

enjenjo · January 02, 2010, 12:58:43 AM

Thanks for the first hand experience. I'll make up a test piece and try it.

38HAULR · January 02, 2010, 04:09:38 PM

No need to drill right through.
A fine counter sink from the rear giving a recess,or not do this at all, and simply silver solder small brass bolts to the rear . Counter sunk variety will have a flat face to sit on the rear of the brass trim.
Frank

Nick32Vic · January 19, 2010, 12:34:59 PM

Hey Frank,

You may have figured something out by now but we can get this stuff called "Sknot-On-A-Roll"

Its a super thin clear film adhesive that is used to stick emblems on cars. It may be a little more permanent than you are wanting. Im not sure though. if you'd like me to look into it more, let me know.

enjenjo · January 19, 2010, 03:37:46 PM

Quote from: "Nick32vic"Hey Frank,

You may have figured something out by now but we can get this stuff called "Sknot-On-A-Roll"

Its a super thin clear film adhesive that is used to stick emblems on cars. It may be a little more permanent than you are wanting. Im not sure though. if you'd like me to look into it more, let me know.

Get me a part number and manufacturer if you can. TIA

Nick32Vic · February 06, 2010, 12:05:34 AM

Quote from: "enjenjo"
Quote from: "Nick32vic"Hey Frank,

You may have figured something out by now but we can get this stuff called "Sknot-On-A-Roll"

Its a super thin clear film adhesive that is used to stick emblems on cars. It may be a little more permanent than you are wanting. Im not sure though. if you'd like me to look into it more, let me know.

Get me a part number and manufacturer if you can. TIA

Sorry it took me so long to reply! I forgot to get back on here and check this! The part number is 70710 by International Epoxies and Sealers (IES) They don't list it on their website but we can get it for you.

Harry · February 06, 2010, 08:08:02 PM

How about one of those welding guns that welds threaded studs on?