Oil consumption after intake change

Started by junkyardjeff, September 18, 2009, 08:14:13 PM

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junkyardjeff

I put a edelbrock performer intake on a very low mile 1970 302 Ford that used no oil in between oil changes but as soon as the intake was put on it started using oil,I retorqued the intake bolts and still the same but had to put the original bolts back in due to one of the Mr Gasket bolts that came with installation kit breaking.  The installation kit came with bolts and gaskest from the same manufacture so does anyone know any problems with the gaskets from Mr Gasket,I will be removing one head to have a guide or valve replaced and I am thinking about putting the 2 bbl back on.  Other then the weak bolts am I over looking anything that can cause the sudden oil consumption after the intake change

chimp koose

were the heads ever milled? sounds like the intake is drawing oil .Had a friend years ago that had a 460 that would blow blue when he turned a corner. cant remember if it was a left or right that did it but only one direction of turn. Ends up the intake was leaking on one side and would draw oil on a sharp turn.

junkyardjeff

The motor had 16,000 miles on it when I got it and I was the first to do anything with it so I doubt the heads have been milled,I am thinking porus intake or lousy intake gaskets.

enjenjo

I'll bet you used the  seals on the ends of the intake.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

junkyardjeff

If I used the seals on the ends how would that cause my problem.

enjenjo

Quote from: "junkyardjeff"If I used the seals on the ends how would that cause my problem.

They will cause the ends of the manifold to bend up enough to leak. What did you torque the intake bolts to?

From the Edelbrock instructions

1) Use only recommended intake gaskets set when installing this intake manifold.
2) Fully clean the cylinder head intake flanges and the engine block end seal surfaces.
3) Apply Edelbrock Gasgacinch sealant P/N 9300 to both cylinder head flanges and to the cylinder head side of the gaskets,
allow to air dry, and attach the intake gaskets.
4) Do not use cork or rubber end seals. Use RTV silicone sealer instead. Apply a ¼" high bead across each block end seal
surface, overlapping the intake gasket at the four corners. This method will eliminate end seal slippage.
5) Install the intake manifold and hold-down bolts. Torque all of the manifold bolts in two steps by the sequence shown in Figure 2 to 18-20 ft/lbs.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

junkyardjeff

I torqued the intake at the specs specified in the instruction but the intake bolts that came with installation kit were junk and I suspect the gaskets too,I bought the intake fron Jegs and bought their installation kit with Mr Gasket parts.  I should of bought name brand gaskets at the local parts store and reused the original bolts originally,one head needs to come off and I wont use the end gaskets when I put it back togather.

river1

Quote from: "enjenjo"4) Do not use cork or rubber end seals. Use RTV silicone sealer instead. Apply a ¼" high bead across each block end seal
surface, overlapping the intake gasket at the four corners. This method will eliminate end seal slippage.
5) Install the intake manifold and hold-down bolts. Torque all of the manifold bolts in two steps by the sequence shown in Figure 2 to 18-20 ft/lbs.

something i've always wondered about.

when you use RTV for a gasket application, do you let it "dry" or skin over before you install the part or do you do it right away?

later jim
Most people have a higher than average number of legs.

Crosley.In.AZ

i set the manny fold down quickly beforethe silicone skins over.  Usually I put some silicone on the manifold too
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

enjenjo

I have no idea what the right way to do it is, but when I toured a GM engine plant, the robot put the silicone on just before another robot installed the part.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.