Shop air piping

Started by jaybee, May 12, 2009, 03:48:54 PM

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jaybee

I've just picked up a pair of air tanks to go with the two stage compressor I've been hoarding for the last few years.  First is a 33gal horizontal that originated on a service truck, the sort that you often see running crosswise over the rear window between side mounted toolboxes on such trucks.  The other is maybe 10gal originating on a semi tractor.  It has pipe threaded outlets on each end, 3 along the length, and a drain on one end.

My thought is to put the big tank and compressor outside in an enclosure to save space and get the noise out of the garage.  The small tank can be wall mounted inside.  I seem to remember that a tank like this can be used to help separate water?  To do this I'm thinking pipe in through the bottom with a drip leg below, use the upper side outlet as an air out, then run out the top to any other drops I wish to run?

Also, is red stripe copper sufficient for shop air, or is blue required?
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

river1

Quote from: "jaybee"Also, is red stripe copper sufficient for shop air, or is blue required?

i don't know the corresponding color but i was told to use type L which is the middle wall thickness. i was told this by the plumber installing the air pipe at my workplace. i work in a 150,000 sq ft building that has a LOT of air power machinery. 175 psi is the normal pressure the lines carry.

later jim
Most people have a higher than average number of legs.


Inprimer

My neighbor helped me (or the other way around LOL) install my system its 3/4 in. BLUE line copper. He's been in the ref business for over 30 yrs . The tank is at the end of the garage (rear) He silver soldered all the connections. Basically, it comes out of the tank into a water filter, goes up to the ceiling and does a 180 deg to the floor minus 6'' or so, then a ball valve was installed to allow any water to drain through, then  "T" fitting  it goes  180 deg back upto a 90 deg and runs parallel to the ceiling for 40 ft, drops down  4 ft to a reel with another 25 ft hose.there is also a connection right after the water filter in this way, a 25ft hose can be connected to the back of the garage. It is  50' long with doors on either end. The only thing about moisture is LOCATION  here in AZ there is so little moisture that i've drained the tank only once and there was not enough to fill a shot glass I'd make sure that if you live in a high humidity area to drain the tanks periodically..

Beck

Quote from: "wayne petty"http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66747
Wayne,
I agree with you 99.9% of the time. This may be part of the .01% I don't. The 3/8 tube is OD. If a large volume of air is needed that tube just can't flow it. If it is a short run fine. If there is a reservour at the end of the line or past midstream it would help. Those push on fittings work fine when new. They do deteriorate with time and sunlight. A few of them come in on skid installations of equipment at work. After a year or so we have to replace them with compression fittings.
3/4 copper pipe is the way to go for most shops. A buddy of mine runs a fiberglass shop. When they use air they use a lot. His lines are 1 1/2" copper. I made the mistake of running plastic pipe to a hose real in my garage. It has been there several years now, but it is sure to break in the future. Fix it now before it breaks you ask, I'm just to lazy. I hope I don't mess my pants when it does break.

river1

Quote from: "Beck"
Quote from: "wayne petty"http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66747
Those push on fittings work fine when new. They do deteriorate with time and sunlight.

and then you throw in the quality that harbor frieght is such a stickler for

later jim
Most people have a higher than average number of legs.