fuel cell preference question...

[tomslik]

make sure when you mount the cell that it is not higher than the top of the tires. thats a rule in the nhra book that is often overlooked when building a car.

I always mount it low in the floor , however i think nhra rescinded that rule??   ill need to look in the 08 book , but good sendse says dont just lay it in the floor

the '07 rule book doesn't say anything about higher than the tire BUT if the tank is outside the body (or any part of it), it has to be covered by a metal box (like the sump).
also, plastic tanks need to be grounded

[enjenjo]

any idea what ohm sender a rambler fuel guage uses?

Same as Stewart Warner, aftermarket gauges, since they are Stewart Warner gauges. 0 to 240 I think.

[Bugpac]

So do you want a fuel cell gas tank or a real fuel cell, thats the question. If you want a real fuel cell, have Fuel Safe make a bladder tank for you...

[tomslik]

So do you want a fuel cell gas tank or a real fuel cell, thats the question. If you want a real fuel cell, have Fuel Safe make a bladder tank for you...

here's what i want;
something that holds a flammable liquid in a 10-12 gallon size,
needs to be nhra legal (doubt it'll run 9's so....),
won't cost more than the car is worth.

i'm pretty sure it'll be plastic

now, next question;
what brand?
jaz?
rci?
etc?

[Crosley.In.AZ]

hello slik,

i find no fuel cells with a proper sender ohm rating you need.  all GM stuff as you noted a few posts back.

the manufacturers seem to label the cell you need with a sender as a pro street fuel cell unit.

about 164 US dollars from Jegs company  for 12 gallon size.  do you need - want a sump on the cell?  they are cheaper without a sump.  these cells at Jegs are with out foam

perhaps cheaper on ebay?

[C9]

Tying to re-use your Rambler gauge?

Or are you doing a panel and trying to used the Rambler sender?

[chimp koose]

If you want to run E85 at some time then avoid aluminum tanks altogether. Aluminum will deteriorate when exposed to alcohol for long periods of time . This includes ANY aluminum in the entire fuel system. When you run a methanol powered car for racing you generally drain the system and lubricate moving parts before storing it . As for the NHRA rules thing , I was a tech inspector at our track in the early 90's . The fuel tank height rule was for the TOP  of the tank not to be higher than the top of the tires(i believe more for stable handling than anything).Some of the rules I would find hard to defend(ie. chassis ,roll cage) When NHRA first implemented the chassis certification program in the late 80's they goofed up. The rulebook's min spec on mild steel roll cages is .120" but the min spec from the foundrys on 1/8 wall tube was .112 so a lot of cars would fail the sonic test .this led to some builders going to .134 wall to ensure passing the sonic test. It was interesting to note that Don Garlits' T/F world championship winning chassis from the mid 80's would not have passed the chassis cert. process to run S/C (8.90 index) when the chassis rules were implemented.I think I would trust my life to a garlits car!The good thing about chassis cert is that when you go to buy a chassied car it takes the guesswork out of wether or not the chassis will pass tech at your local track as it will pass at ANY track with a chassis tag. The rule that really frosts my cookies is the 2 yrs on harnesses rule. I used to sell my 2yr old harnesses to a STOCK CAR guy because they could run them for 5 yrs!In western Canada there are a number of tracks going over to IHRA partly due to the less restrictive rules. NHRA has softened some of the rules (11.49 for rollbar from 11.99). I dont see our local track changing to IHRA at any time as the NHRA tech director for division 6 lives here(great guy I must say).Years ago I started to notice that when NHRA would announce another contingency sponser for national and divisional events that you could almost expect to see a rulebook change requiring their equipment the following year.Ill stop now as Im starting to rant.

[tomslik]

Tying to re-use your Rambler gauge?

Or are you doing a panel and trying to used the Rambler sender?

want to use the rambler gauge.
well, on one of the amc sites they say 73-10 ohms, same as ford so at least something is available....


crosley, most of the stuff on the car so far is from swap meets, ebay, stuff laying around, or just scrounging.
aside from safety stuff (Like brakes), there's not gonna be much new on it...

[tomslik]

If you want to run E85 at some time then avoid aluminum tanks altogether. Aluminum will deteriorate when exposed to alcohol for long periods of time . This includes ANY aluminum in the entire fuel system. When you run a methanol powered car for racing you generally drain the system and lubricate moving parts before storing it . As for the NHRA rules thing , I was a tech inspector at our track in the early 90's . The fuel tank height rule was for the TOP  of the tank not to be higher than the top of the tires(i believe more for stable handling than anything).Some of the rules I would find hard to defend(ie. chassis ,roll cage) When NHRA first implemented the chassis certification program in the late 80's they goofed up. The rulebook's min spec on mild steel roll cages is .120" but the min spec from the foundrys on 1/8 wall tube was .112 so a lot of cars would fail the sonic test .this led to some builders going to .134 wall to ensure passing the sonic test. It was interesting to note that Don Garlits' T/F world championship winning chassis from the mid 80's would not have passed the chassis cert. process to run S/C (8.90 index) when the chassis rules were implemented.I think I would trust my life to a garlits car!The good thing about chassis cert is that when you go to buy a chassied car it takes the guesswork out of wether or not the chassis will pass tech at your local track as it will pass at ANY track with a chassis tag. The rule that really frosts my cookies is the 2 yrs on harnesses rule. I used to sell my 2yr old harnesses to a STOCK CAR guy because they could run them for 5 yrs!I


my understanding is that the thread they sew the belts together with is the issue.
obviously circle track guys are expendable

MY problem is that if it's oem belts and they're 30 years old, they're ok to run but a aftermarket harnees isn't after 2 years.....


n western Canada there are a number of tracks going over to IHRA partly due to the less restrictive rules. NHRA has softened some of the rules (11.49 for rollbar from 11.99). I dont see our local track changing to IHRA at any time as the NHRA tech director for division 6 lives here(great guy I must say).Years ago I started to notice that when NHRA would announce another contingency sponser for national and divisional events that you could almost expect to see a rulebook change requiring their equipment the following year.Ill stop now as Im starting to rant.

the plan for this car is to get some track time (for me AND the car, it's been too long.....)this year and this coming winter, get a cage put in AND a fresh motor.maybe a little more tire, too.
this'n has at least 80K on it....

[Crosley.In.AZ]

slik,

I am familar with your MO.... hence I am looking at new stuff at on-line suppliers for a reference since I know you are looking at ebay and craigs list, racing junk.com , etc type of sites.

the rule loop holes you mention are something I do not understand either.  IF the car runs quick enough the OE lap belts will not be allowed.


as mentioned there seems to be a lot of differences of opinions with different inspectors at different tracks on what is OK or not.

[tomslik]

you have much luck with racingjunk.com?

[tomslik]

slik,


the rule loop holes you mention are something I do not understand either.  IF the car runs quick enough the OE lap belts will not be allowed.

if you've got a car that,say, runs 12's,oem belts are ok, put a cage in the same car and you get to run 2 yr belts.....
i don't mind the harness bit but give me a good solid reason.....

[Crosley.In.AZ]

slik,


the rule loop holes you mention are something I do not understand either.  IF the car runs quick enough the OE lap belts will not be allowed.

if you've got a car that,say, runs 12's, oem belts are ok, put a cage in the same car and you get to run 2 yr belts.....
i don't mind the harness bit but give me a good solid reason.....

slik,


eggzackly my point too. When you reach into one area of the rules , a whole different group of parameters of the rules apply.

If the cars goes a certain ET... you need belts and cage.  Certain ET quicker , different number  of "mounting points' on the roll cage.

Add the cage to the 12 sec car and proper belts are needed... BUT the car slows down some with the extra weight , so are the belts really needed?

I doubt the Rambler has a well designed cage safety structure / uni-body.... I would error on the side of safety in your drag race effort.  Sneak up on faster times and have fun!  If it ain't fun , get on the HD and get lost for 200 - 400 miles.

I have never purchased an item off racingjunk.com  .. prices seem higher on that place than you find else where


:?:

[tomslik]

slik,


the rule loop holes you mention are something I do not understand either.  IF the car runs quick enough the OE lap belts will not be allowed.

if you've got a car that,say, runs 12's, oem belts are ok, put a cage in the same car and you get to run 2 yr belts.....
i don't mind the harness bit but give me a good solid reason.....

slik,


eggzackly my point too. When you reach into one area of the rules , a whole different group of parameters of the rules apply.

If the cars goes a certain ET... you need belts and cage.  Certain ET quicker , different number  of "mounting points' on the roll cage.

Add the cage to the 12 sec car and proper belts are needed... BUT the car slows down some with the extra weight , so are the belts really needed?


depending on the car, it MAY end up being quicker due to the chassis bening stiffer
I doubt the Rambler has a well designed cage safety structure / uni-body....

funny, the passenger compartment is pretty * well put together.
deck screws holing on fenders is another;)
btw, on 69 's theres a subframe connector built in where rhe 67's end just under your feet....

I would error on the side of safety in your drag race effort.  Sneak up on faster times and have fun!  If it ain't fun , get on the HD and get lost for 200 - 400 miles.

I have never purchased an item off racingjunk.com  .. prices seem higher on that place than you find else where


:?: