4 bar bushings

[DRD57]

I went to my local auto parts store (a REAL one where the guys know parts) thinking I could get some new 4 bar bushings for the coupe. The worn out bushings were rubber the steel sleeves inside and out.  

They didn't have any but they said they would carry them if they knew what they were since they've had a few requests for the from local hot rodders.

So, what is the OEM application for these things?

Anybody have any brand names or part numbers?

I ended up replacing them with Urethane bushings that I got from CSRM (the guys who built my deuce chassis).

[enjenjo]

Pete & Jake used to use 61 to 64 Chevy rear panhard bar bushings, don't know if that is still the standard. Myself, I like the urethane bushings, they seem to last longer.

[C9]

Pete & Jake used to use 61 to 64 Chevy rear panhard bar bushings, don't know if that is still the standard. Myself, I like the urethane bushings, they seem to last longer.

Later model Buick panhard bushings may be the same as Enjenjo pointed out.
I think the Buicks were used up to the early 80's which is about when the urethane bushings came in.

You may be able to find some info at the Buick V8 board.

Go here:  http://www.v8buick.com/

They have several different forums you can check in.//

[DrJ]

I just put new (oem style rubber) bushings in my '60 Chevy and would like to point out that whan you tighten the bushing's fastener down it locks the center sleeve and all the suspension's motion is taken up by the rotational stretching of the rubber as the link moves.
Repair manuals recommend not tightening them unless the car is sitting with weight on the axle so that at the static position there isn't already tension stretching on the bushing when it's just standing.
They last longer that way.
I seem to remember them being Chevy Panhard bar bushings too, but I didn't measure mine before I put it together, sorry...

P.S. LargeCat, Enjenjo, It's spelled "VillAin"....

[enjenjo]

P.S. LargeCat, Enjenjo, It's spelled "VillAin"....

Check your "old" English, norman times.

[Fat Cat]

P.S. LargeCat, Enjenjo, It's spelled "VillAin"....

Not according to this http://www.learningcurve.gov.uk/FocusOn/Domesday/close_up/closernfr.htm

[DrJ]

OK, Now I get it....YOU guys are also into the SCA stuff!
http://www.sca.org/
My wife usta belong and a friend of hers was crowned the "Queen" of the local Kingdom a while back. (Her Boyfriend became King by winning at the "battle"

P.S. LargeCat, Enjenjo, It's spelled "VillAin"....

Not according to this http://www.learningcurve.gov.uk/FocusOn/Domesday/close_up/closernfr.htm

[Skip]

In a previous suspension incarnation (removed in '73) I used '58 Buick sway bar ends and bushings.  They were the same ones that everyone is still using in current four bar setups.  They were used in many coil sprung GM products for years after that as well.

Another alternative is a replaceable bushing for a truck shock absorber.

FWIW, if you measure the bushing, a good catalog person can find it in the cross reference section in the back.

As for tightening them, they need to be TIGHT.  Tighten the bolt until the tabs on the frame securely capture the metal sleeve inside the bushing.

The sleeve SHOULD NOT MOVE.  The rubber should TWIST inside the frame tabs, not rotate on the shaft or between the tabs.  This is the reason that OEM specifications stipulate that the suspension should be under load and/or at ride height before the bolts are torqued down.  This way, the bushings are "at rest" in the middle of their travel, thus assuring maximum service life.  If the bushings are torqued down with the suspension hanging, they'll be under tension at normal ride height and under extreme stress when the suspension is bottomed.  Stress tears rubber.