'40 Ford electric door locks

[Okiedokie]

Rick, I am positive that your passenger door outside lock will still function normally. Joe

[Digger]

Rick, any progress?

I have been flying a lot lately and have just started working. I bought a right rear door latch just to cut it like the drawing and make the mistakes with it before I start cutting on the '40s good door latchs. I have got the electrics working good. I think I will mount the controller behind the left kick panel. I still have not figured out how to have a mechanical back up in case the key FOB fails , or the battery goes dead. One thing I though of was to use a GM type door lock cylinder and hook it to the rod that moves up and down. If I remember the lock cylinder has  movement before the lock moves.
Some times my projects take a little longer because I can't work in the garage after work because I am not home. As my Wife says Flying off somewhere.
Rick

I usually use a hood release lever and cable either hidden under the hood or under a fender, and run back thru the door to the latch. Works great!

[Okiedokie]

Well, looks like I was wrong about the outside lock working. I had the opportunity to look at one of the actuators at a friends today. I don't think that the key lock could overcome the actuator. It did cause me to think, after I left, if the battery loses power do the actuators unlock? Does the controller somehow keep the actuators engaged? Anyone have any experience with these set ups?

[crdnblu]

I'm not too sure that you need to be concerned about the door-lock actuator (solenoid) strength being able to be over-ridden by your key; they typically operate on a "pulse" basis, & are not held in the locked/unlocked position by any current being present.
Hopefully others will chime-in here to confirm, or refute my statement.

[Okiedokie]

crdnblu, of course you are correct. Once I thoght about it and realized that it could not be powered at all times. I was correct the first time. the door key would still function.