Inline booster.

[X38]

BCal, your knowledge is left of centre!

[Gilles]

Thanks for the info, you know more on européen cars than me!

Here inline boosters are called "hydrovac" and I think some 404 Peugeot were equiped with, but it was a single circuit. To use 2 boosters for my dual circuit would need  a lot of space  underside of the car and a lot of money spent. I can find them new in France but they cost around 300$ each!  It's possible to use anly one on the front circuit but how about the front to rear balance :?:
The ideal solution would be to find a good inline dual circuit booster at a fair price in a wrecking yard :?: I try to search!

Gilles

[bcal]

BCal, your knowledge is left of centre!

Left? Centre? Right?
It's all pretty meaningless to me.
Why be limited other people's boundaries  

Gilles.
I tried to mount two Lockheeds in my A roadster, which was also too low for a conventional booster under the floor. The rear one was easy enough because it fitted up in the rear kickup but I couldn't find a decent location for the front one. You could mount it up under the dash but this may create a nightmare when trying to bleed air out of the thing.
As was mentioned earlier in this thread you could always just boost the front brakes. Many Aussie cars of the late 60s that were fitted with discs front and drums rear used this set up. They used the PBR VH44 booster. To balance the brakes they had different sized rear wheel cylinders. Maybe a variable proportioning valve would to the same thing.

[C9]

Isn't the usual ratio for street rod brake pedals 7/1?

I run a 7/8" M/C, 68-70 Mustang disc brakes up front and 11" Mercury station wagon brakes in the rear.
The system is not boosted and the car stops well.

Pedal pressures are entirely within reason and similar to braking a non-boosted Pinto.
I would guess the pedal effort on European cars similar in size to the Pinto would be the same.

One of the problems I see with a boosted system utilizing very powerful brakes on a small car is that pedal pressure is too easy.

Driving in slow running heavy traffic where light braking is used you'll find yourself having to hold your foot up due to the weight of the foot simply lying on the brake pedal makes for too much braking.

Before I went to a boosted setup I'd increase the mechanical advantage at the brake pedal proper by changing the ratio.

I note when I bleed the brakes manually - no air tank etc. - the brake pedal is up off the floor far enough that either system would work if the opposite system sprung a leak.
The car has a Deuce Factory pedal with about a 7/1 ratio and perhaps 1" cut off to allow adaptation of a 53 Ford style pedal.

[Gilles]

Thanks for your advice Jay,

I made the pedal assembly myself in 1997 without to have see a street-rod one for real but only  on photo catalogs. It was also before I discovered internet and RRT. It's why I choose not enough pedal ratio. With a 7/1 ratio the pedal travel would be very big :!:( around 4.5 inch to hit the brakes)  And the pedal sitting 2 inch higher  than now :!:  

How much it's  the pedal travel in your car?

I have no doubt that a non booster system should work good, is what I have on my factory 1966 Renault 16. Disc/drums, similar wheight than the 32, no booster and less effort to hit the brakes than the 32.

I already changed the pads on the 32, thinking the old ones were  to hard.

Gilles

[C9]

Pedal travel in both my roadsters is 6".

Measured from underneath the pedal to top surface of the aluminum escutcheons on the floorboards of both cars.

You may be able to see the escutcheon on the 31 in the pic.
The aluminum is a touch shiny.

Fwiw - the 32's escutcheon also has jute padding and carpet underneath so it's travel - if set up as the bare floored 31 is - is probably 1/4" more.


Somewhere along the line I forgot to thank you for the magazine you sent, so a belated thank you.

No excuse, but this moving to Arizona bit has been a little busy lately.

Doing other stuff as well.

As you can see in the other pics.