Way off topic...Table Saw questions

river1 · April 10, 2005, 02:04:27 PM

Quote from: "purplepickup"Besides, it's a lot easier to hit it with your finger when it's that high.

have you seen the saw stop technology?

http://www.sawstop.com/

be sure to watch the videos.

later jim

purplepickup · April 10, 2005, 02:34:32 PM

Quote from: "river1"have you seen the saw stop technology?

http://www.sawstop.com/

be sure to watch the videos.

later jim

Yes, someone on another forum showed me that. It's amazing! Definitely worth the money if you're accident prone....like many of us are.

I don't leave my saw running when I'm adjusting or measuring. It's only on to make the cut and I try to keep my brain on full alert while it's on. It sure doesn't take much to slip up.

GPster · April 10, 2005, 02:43:59 PM

Quote from: "purplepickup"Sum, that's a really good idea...and job well done, to mock up your frame out of wood. It makes it easy to make changes and tweak things to fit. I know you've wanted to build a lakester for a long time.

Is that the start of your lakester? You're off to a good start and a bigger engine than Sum's. What inovations, solid steel wheels. GPster

jaybee · April 10, 2005, 05:46:00 PM

Quote from: "purplepickup"This is the one I ordered.

I've done many hours of work on that very saw and found it a very enjoyable tool to use. For your purpose it should work very well. I've also worked with a radial arm. It works very well for certain things but I found it clumsy for others. Agreed that it makes some jobs easier than a table saw. You can reduce that list somewhat with a miter saw. It should have the table extended on the sides or support rollers as long stock is hard to keep stable on the smal work table of a miter saw. That and a panel cutting jig for the table saw.

WZ JUNK · April 10, 2005, 06:40:47 PM

Okay, even though I am getting into this topic late, as a retired shop teacher, I will give my opinion. Table saws are for ripping, radial arm saws are for crosscutting. Now I know that they both will do each of these operations but from experience neither one does both jobs with good results and I like both saws. One further comment on radial arm saws is that they have more ways to get out of adjustment and make inaccurate cuts. The same things that make radial arm saw so versatile and adjustable also can cause them to be out of square.

George, I sent you a PM the other day.

C9 · April 10, 2005, 08:56:41 PM

WZ Junks comment on radial saw adjustments sure rang true for me.

I went nutso for a while trying to set up my 12" radial to cut square.
The blade was square to the table, travel along the arm was at 90 degrees to the fence.

What I finally found was that the blade was not at 90 degrees to the fence because the motor/arbor was twisted to one side on the 'carrier', or whatever you call the thing that carries motor and blade along the arm.
What was happening was the cocked saw blade would cut deeper at the rear than it did the front and you'd end up with an off square cut.

It can be adjusted square and what helps is to hold the square at a 45 degree vertical angle to the table. That will show you if the blade is cocked or not.

47convert · April 11, 2005, 02:09:45 PM

Right now when I'm mocking up the frame for my lakester and the saw is just to the left of it out of the picture. It is out of the way with the rest of shop still available, yet I am able to cut all the lumber for this project.

Hey Sum, when you said "Lakester we thought you were talking about Bonneville! That baby's gonna float. LOL

purplepickup · April 11, 2005, 02:59:24 PM

Since this popped back up to the top.....C9 I sent you a PM but I've got a question about that Ryobi saw you mentioned. Is it the one Home Depot sells for $299? Is it the Ryobi BT3100?

1FATGMC · April 11, 2005, 03:19:17 PM

Quote from: "47convert"

Right now when I'm mocking up the frame for my lakester and the saw is just to the left of it out of the picture. It is out of the way with the rest of shop still available, yet I am able to cut all the lumber for this project.

Hey Sum, when you said "Lakester we thought you were talking about Bonneville! That baby's gonna float. LOL

Didn't you know they now have a wooden frame class for when the salt is under water

.

c ya, Sum

C9 · April 11, 2005, 05:24:37 PM

Quote from: "purplepickup"Since this popped back up to the top.....C9 I sent you a PM but I've got a question about that Ryobi saw you mentioned. Is it the one Home Depot sells for $299? Is it the Ryobi BT3100?

It's a Ryobi 3000.
I don't know if it's one step up or down from the 3100.

Bought it about 5 years ago and the price was $499. I believe.
With most of the Ryobi accessories, couple of $60. carbide blades, dado etc. the price was right at $1000.

If I'd bought it on a Tuesday it would have been $900.

C9 · April 11, 2005, 05:47:21 PM

PM'd you the info George.

The pic below was my first project with the Ryobi.
As mentioned the nice part was the dead square cuts.
As well as the smoothness of the 60 tooth carbide blade I used.

The wall hanging cabinet is dadoed, dowelled and glued.
No screws or nails.

A honey-do job and I still get points for it . . . don't get much better than that....

WZ JUNK · April 11, 2005, 05:48:25 PM

Hey Sum, when you said "Lakester we thought you were talking about Bonneville! That baby's gonna float. LOL[/quote]

One of the faster teams at Bonneville has been the team of Wooden/Carr, therefore, Sumner is not that unique in his approach.