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Ok thanks for the help, I had it in my head the outers were different.

Yes this is a mustang rack, taken off a MII that was being broken.

I do need to source the extender though, I found speedway do a kit that actually adds an inch to both sides, rather than 2" in one.

Thanks again

With a little searching it seems that the difference is between manual and power racks.
I remembered that the extender I have is for a manual rack, I also found a couple of bits of information that points to the manual rack inners being bigger.

Something else that was confusing me was if I searched on the online parts stores I'd always get several results, but it looks like this is just down to multiple manufacturers.

However, I still have a problem, I want to order the outers too and I'm sure manual and power are different, but none of the parts stores make any distinction, does anyone have any part numbers ?

Is there any way of identifying what rack I have?

I need to buy new inner and outer tie rods, rockauto.com show several different ones but with no hint as to which one I need.

The rack I have is ford stamped and has some codes on, but I can't relate this to anything. What I do know is there must be more than one rack, as I have a rack extender (basically pushes one tie rod out an inch or two), but this does not fit, its too big.

Need to replace the inners are one is bent and I don't have any outers!

Thanks..

Thanks for the help.

I was thinking about the diagonal split and realised it would be a pain for the plumbing, forgot to mention I was planning on using an adjustable proportioning valve, so I could ensure that the majority of the braking is done by the front (don't want the rears to lock first). So it'd be much easier if I did a front/rear split. I hadn't thought of the problem of the car turning in a failure.

A friend is using the same servo, master cylinder and calipers on the front with an 8" ford rear. His brakes are very good and have a decent pedal, so given the only difference is the rear end hopefully mine will be good too.

Looking at the braking system on my '55 olds..

the original set up had a large,  single flexi from the master cylinder to a distribution block on the chassis, this split front and back, which was all plumbed in (I think but will check) 1/4" line.

I'm using a modern master cylinder, front is using GM calipers (typical hod rod kit). I'm using the original rear end.

The master cylinder has two outlets, thinking I may try and arrange a horizontally split system, so if I get a problem both axles will be braked by the "good" circuit.

Question is if I want to drop to regular brake pipe size (3/16th?) will it be okay on the rear?
Half of me says the pressure will be the same, so no problems, the other half says there is less fluid movement, so braking effect would be reduced.

Obviously I will have to run hard line to each wheel and then go to the caliper / cylinder with a flexi.

Thanks for the help.

This was caused by suspension arm failure, when the load was increased due to braking it broke, this in turn caused the other side to break..

If you watch closely you'll see the whole hub assembly rips away from the arms.

you can get adapters to put chevy transmissions on the rocket engine, one company doing them was/is called tanson enterprises, Im sure there was another but the name escapes me.

The master cylinder sits engine side on the toeboard, just under the column, as others have said the vac unit is under the drivers floorpan between the chassis rail and the X section.

Is the car a 88 or 98 ? is it a holiday model (holidays are hardtop, i.e. no centre pillar).

whilst parts hunting for 30s chevy stuff is someone comes across a '37/'38 chevy coupe decklid let me know

There seems to be very few 30s chevy bits on ebay for some reason..

old age is kicking in ! I meant to paste a lin in the other post, here it is:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/559396300OvguEw

GPster:

haha might be in the UK but the car is Left Hand Drive as GM intended, so passenger side as you think of it is still passenger side

I have thought about passenger side mounting, I just don't know how easy it will be as the outlet from the water pump is there isn't it. I think my biggest problem is not having different pumps here to offer up, I only have a saginaw pump to try.

Certainly looks to be rare, google threw up this http://www.classictruckshop.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/13

and a link to the same truck on stovebolt.com

I'm guessing they were for mobile sales ? ice creams / produce etc ?

Wayne, that last picture does look interesting, I assume the holes in the bracket line up with the old front mount holes in the block. You may well be right when you say it might be high enough

I know southern rods do that bracket/pump but I can't find any info on dimensions (most important one is height above crank centerline). Do you know anywhere else that sells that bracket ?

Wayne, I haven't heard of that type of pump, all I've seen is the "type 1" pump:

and the "type 2" pump:


are you saying there is another type ?

for rerference the pump needs to be high to clear the crossmember / steering rack, lets say the pulley needs to be something like 2.5" above crank centreline, more is better!

Dont know how much help it will be, but there is the gallery of a friends' build, 460 ford using retrotek fuel injection setup. The car is not quite finished yet but you should be able to see alot of the hardware stuff.

Ah I see, interesting to know that a low pressure valve is available as an OE part.

Getting hold of the valve isn't a problem, I could just order one from a vendor, the main problem I have is mounting the pump, we talked about passenger side steering pump mounts a while ago in this thread : http://www.roddingroundtable.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=84418

I've been unable to find any detail on them or anywhere I could get one from, hence looking at the electric route.

All I have found is a serpentine setup from March that I'm pretty sure would work, it has a custom pump and alternator that are very small and sit high on the block, which would be perfect, only problem being its nearly $3000, which is a bit too rich for my pocket.