Messages

What was the issue with the torque convertor since you had to have custom one welded up,I was under the impresssion a smallblock convertor bolted up to a 59 to 64 flywheel.

The problem was the snout of the C4 convertor bottomed out in the back of the crank before mating up to the flexplate.  I actually called Doc Fromater (sp?) who wrote the atricle to ask if he had the problem.  But he actually never bolted his set up together so he was no help.  I had to have a C4 convertor modified to have a shorter snout.  Pheonix Transmission in Texas did the work, which was a great job by the way, but it was an expense I wasn't anticipating.  Overall it would have been cheaper to just buy the C4 adaper plus I would have had a more modern trans and had the SBF starter to boot.

I can't tell you about the FMX being push startable.....but I did put one behind my 292 in my 57 wagon using the Street Rodder Magazine series as a guide.  The article made it look like it was a simple bolt on.  In my case it was NOT.  I had to get a custom made torque converter welded up which cost way more than I expected.  If I was to use an automatic again, I'd pop for the Flat-o-matic C4 adapter and trashcan the FMX.

I really don't know why you're so concerned about the starter not working.  To me it's definately not what would drive my transmission choice.

I have a toploader behind the 312 in my 28 PU and absolutely love it.  Besides machining down the large OD of the bearing retainer to fit into the bellhousing, it was a direct bolt in.

Thanks Carps.  That's just what I was looking for.

I'm setting up the chassis on my '33 sedan and would like to get an idea of the actual ride height. Would some of you guys with finished cars, or close to it, take a few measurements for me?

Distance between top of rear axle and bottom of frame rail.

Distance between top of I-beam front axle and bottom of frame rail.

Diameter of tires.

And maybe a side picture of your car.

Also...if you have a SBC, did you have to recess the firewall? What distributor? Electric or mechanical fan? If you have a manual trans, what did you use for pedals?

As an FYI, In the rear I'm using an original rear spring, with P&J rear hangers and ladder bars. On the front a CE I-beam with split bones, reversed eye spring. Thanks for all your help.

Hey Todd, sure hope to make it back this year.  Even if there were no cars there it's worth just the trip just for the bands (and "unique" locals).

Im pretty sure all the Model A frames had a number on them.  I've owned probably a dozen Model A frames over the years and unless they were very rusted in the number area, they have all had numbers.  

I've only had one Model T frame with a number.  But that doesn't surprise me since only 2 years had them.

Only the 26 & 27's had a number on the frame.  It is in roughly the same place as Model A, meaning the left rail about the cowl area.  25 and older frames have no number.

In my 29 Coupe I too have the motor mount style that has 1 gusset going vertically down the boxing plate.  It has developed a crack at the lower point.   I'm going to cut these out and put in a pair of the Chassis Engineering kind that use the Flathead style biscuts.  

Because of this problem in my Coupe, when I built my 28 PU, I made my own mounts (using the biscuts) but welded the lower brackets all the way into the outer rails.  Then I boxed the frame.

Welcome Chris. We have fun here And Frank is like our dad

Hey Rudy, if Frank is like your Dad, he must be pretty old.  That'd make him more like my Grandpa.

Thanks for the info.  I didn't know that you could turn it upside down.  All the places I'd looked always showed keeping up upright.  I've seen the rear exit unit, but was wanting to make due with what I already have.

I'm putting A/C into my 57 Ford with a Y-block and the brackets I got from Vintage Air mount the compressor down low.  There is not enough clearance to get the hoses on without cutting a big notch in my framerail, which I don't want to do.

I know that I need to keep the oil fill above horizontal, so that rules out turning the compressor upside down.  So does anyone know if the back cover of a Sanden 508 can be rotated 90 or 180 degrees allowing me to point the hoses down but keep the oil fill up?  If so, is this something that  I can do myself?  Will it need a new seal (gasket or o-ring)?

Thanks for the help.

After lurking for years, I thought I better do my intro.   I can't remember if it was Bob K. or HRLC that initially tuned me in to the RRT, but I know I'm aquanted with a few others here too.   My name is Chris and I'm in Des Moines Iowa.  Been around old cars all my life, having grown up in a street rod family.  Some of my earliest memories are of going with my dad to look at his 33 Tudor and riding in his '61 Vette (circa 1973).  My cars (projects) are mostly 26-34 Fords, but I do have a 55 Belair, 57 Ford 2dr Wagon and a 65 Chevelle Conv.   So my interests are varied.  I won't post much, but will continue to check into see what's happening every now and then.  Thanks C.F.