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a built 200 is 1295 . it is a true 4 speed with a clutch pack for 4th. i've used them since 90 and have had only one failure due to abuse.

see if your sandblaster will use 3m starblast. i use it and type 5 acrylic here at my shop. soda blasting is not recomended by many paint mfg. my composite supplier says not to use it if i am going to paint it. starblast is the best i have found. does a great job even on vettes . there are some pics of the results on my web site. let me know if i can help.

i run only the a pin hot. no other wires are needed.

ign hot to " a " pin. top left looking at the plug. it's locking in every gear you have another problem.  i've had solenoids go bad. not wanting to unlock when stopping. the govnor plays a part in this also. sounds like you need to get it checked out by a trans man. you may need to change the govnor. you can run without the lockup.

ps i know just enough about these to be dangerous. i dont build them, just use them in my builds.

the 200 only needs 1 hot wire for the pressure solenoid. no switch needed.

keep in mind when chosing gears that you have a lockup converter. to high of a gear and you'll be in and out of lockup at hwy speed. i run 3:73, 3:89 or 4:11's with the 200. the 200 is a true 4 speed and is double tuff. the problem with the 700 is when it goes it takes out everything. they just exsplode the case as in the pics. i quit using the 700 in 90. low gears and a tight converter can be a blast to drive. try to setup for 2k at 70.

i see that 57 on the side of the road i'll wait till you leave then i'm gonna snatch it.

keep in mind aluminum pans don't dent......they exsplode and your walking. ask me how i know  

howdy bsheep

the 700 has a band for od. the 200 has a separate clutch pack for 4th. i have used them since 90 and have never had a failure except one that was streetraced for 4 years. it is a stronger box than the 700. when the sprag goes [ and it will] in a 700 it destroys the case and all. gm trucks had nothing but trans problems with the 700. i just prefer the 200. 1 hot wire for lock up and thats it. you can even run without the lock up. plus it takes less room.

a 700 should run around 1295 carry out. r&r should only be a couple hundred. i run 200's in all my builds. it's a true 4 speed with better shift splits.

cutting springs makes them stiffer. any more than 1/4 round and the spring rate is destroyed. learned the hard way , got the tshirt.

you can only sand so much of a coat of paint before polishing. pigment tends to float to the top. sand a red car too much and it will turn orange. with todays single stage you have to shoot it slick. many advise against color sanding. you cant shoot it rough and sand it out anymore. best bet is to color sand and shoot another slick coat. every coat adds trash and texture.

at idle the pcv is closed. at hwy speeds it is open to evac the air/oil vapor mix . the pressure in the crankcase will find it's way out. be it thru a breather.pcv or your main seals. i run moon valve covers with no holes and put a 90 deg moon breather on the dr side front by the alt. even after long hwy runs they dont lose oil from the breather. the breathers are large and foam filled.
enjeno's right about the valves. they can have a direct influence on air/fuel mix if incorrect. causing rough idle and lean mix.

ok, your pulling vac on the crankcase so how is oil coming out of the breather ?  we ran vents on both valce covers down to the collectors on our race car just to keep oil inside. without them you blow oil out every seal. you get a lot of blow by even on a new motor. you can not depend on a pcv alone.

pvc's were the first smog tech. they took the breather tube off and replaced it with the pvc and a vent. you build pressure in the crankcase by rotating mass and compression blow by. it does not suck thru the breather. why vent a trans ? or rear end ? a well vented motor will not blow oil from main seals . you must have a good vent even with the pvc. it relieves excessive presure in the crankcase.