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This is free advice and that is exactly what it is worth. You have a 40 year old rear  axle. Get an S-10 4wd rear axle. Great gear selection from 3.08 to 4.10 (most are 3.42 and 3.73) and are much newer. They are narrower than the Nova and 7 and 8 inch wheels work equally well. No need to change dive shafts either and they have the same 4 3/4" bolt pattern. Many also have locking differential as well. You can pick them up around here for Less than $100. to $250. You have already spent more than that on bearings. Those free 40 year old rear axles usually need work as you are finding out. SORRY for the long post  !!  Bill

I use 79 thru 87 GM  A body, Camaro,  or S10 rotors and caliphers{known as metric}. I use the ECI brand calipher bracket kit which includes the thinner spindle nut and washer welded together. Then install Ford A12 and A13 inner and outer races and bearings. No spindle spacers or machine work necessary. I use the mid 80 Camaro hoses as they are inverted flare rather than metric bubble female fittings. These are 10.5 inch rotors however rather than 11 inch like the 70's rotors. They will clear 14 inch wheels.

NO ! That is a picture of the Busch brothers of Nascar fame, before Kurt had his ears 'done'.  

And proud to be one!!

Thanks to both of you. Your site is tremendous,  Sumner. I appreciate all your info !!  Bill

I have a 1990 sbc and 700R4 from a G20 van. I want to change to a carb and lose the computer. Speedway has a 4th gear lock-up kit for $140.00 that includes a 4th gear pressure switch.vacuum control switch.lock-up solenoid ,and other components. Any pros or cons with using this kit? I am going to use a Holley carb and I have the linkage that bolts on to provide the correct TB cable geometry. I also have a large trans cooler. This is going in a 47 chevy coupe with a 3.73 S-10 rear axle.I appreciate any thoughts,ideas,suggrstions etc. Thanks in advance. Bill

I always set the rear suspension first. BUY the Chassis Eng bolt on rear kit and it will center your rear  wheels PERFECTLY. The ride height will give you the rake you are after. I use P235/70 or similar size tires and they will fill up the rear fender opening. Now to the front. BUY the Chassis Eng bolt on front crossmember and guess what = it will center your front wheels in the wheel opening PERFECTLY. The ride height is adjustable - about 2 1/2 inches. THis will enable you to fine tune ride height and level the car from side to side. You said this is your first street rod build and thes kits will be perfect for you. YES they cost aliitle more but they are worth it, reguardless of your abilities and the end result,time saved,and added value will always be there. PLUS they are foolproof !!

My 47 chevy is 7 1/2 inches from the bottom of the frame to the ground measured at the 1st body mount near the cowl. The bottom of the front bumper is 7 inches from the ground. The front tires are 215/70 R14. My car has a CE adjustable front crossmember and the lower control arms are paralell to the ground. My car will scrap the front bumper on curbs or concrete parking blocks. Remember you can adjust ride height with tire diameter as well.

Remove the felts,they go in last. The glass and lower channel assembly go in thru the top. Rotate the assembly 1/4 turn and carefully start  installing thru the top, rotating back as the assembly is going in. Then install the regulator thru the opening on the side and slide it onto the lower channel assembly. Then bolt the regulator in place and lastly install the felts. I prefer to glue them in w/gorilla snot rather than screws or rivets but either will work. If you have not mated the glass to the lower channel try this method. Slide the lower channel onto the regulator and install them thru the inner panel hole. Bolt the regulator in place. Roll the channel near the top and fill about 1/2 full of black silicone. Then feed the glass thru the top of the door into the channel and lightly seat the glass in place. Now the glass is glued inthe channel rather than set w/glass tape.It is a good idea to tape the top of the door for protection w/either method. Good Luck !!

The correct handle for the winder is "T" shaped similar to the windshield crankout handle on a 33-34. It is only about 4" across and that is why you hit the flange with a regular window handle.

Sure,just let me know which issues you want and I will send them to you.

I am trying to reduce my magazine collection and I hate to just throw them away. Anyone want Street Rodder or Street Scene  mags from 1990 to the present ? FREE plus shipping !! 16 will fit in US Postal flat rate boxes and shipping is about $8.00. Thanks

Sorry my digital camera won't work anymore so I can't post any pictures. However the car was by owned by Dan Zank and was built by Larry Braga both of San Bernardino, Ca. The feature was 12 pages long and the car was/is super slick.

Go to a GM or Delco dealer and buy a Delco rebuilt starter. It will come complete with a new delco solenoid. Yes they cost more than an Autozone or Advance starter, but it will be last forever and will never have any hot start issues. This comes from working at the same Chevy dealership for 33 plus years, my last day was june 29,2007. I may starve now,but I am so glad to be gone !!!

The smaller of the 2 fittings is the high pressure side and is the lower one. The upper fitting( the one closer to the input shaft) is the return side and is the larger