Wiring question

[Roadstar]

I have a high torque starter and it only has a start termal besided the main Batt post,

I am running a early points  distributer in a early 283 Chevy Small block

The stock starter had a ignition post that wuld give the coil 12 volts during cranking and then once it started it would run off the ballast resister that was fed by an ignition sorce.

I was wondering if I can just tag off the start wire from the ignition switch that cuts out once the key is turned back to the run position from the start position, to give the coil a full 12 volts during cranking.

Hopefully I explained this simply enough.

Thanks.

[Dave]

I have a high torque starter and it only has a start termal besided the main Batt post,

I am running a early points  distributer in a early 283 Chevy Small block

The stock starter had a ignition post that wuld give the coil 12 volts during cranking and then once it started it would run off the ballast resister that was fed by an ignition sorce.

I was wondering if I can just tag off the start wire from the ignition switch that cuts out once the key is turned back to the run position from the start position, to give the coil a full 12 volts during cranking.

Hopefully I explained this simply enough.

Thanks.

Ya that should work Rudy.. Im assuming your gonna run a wire to the coil from the start terminal of the switch then one from the run terminal of the switch  to the ballast resister then to the coil...  
Yup GET R DONE
Dave

[Roadstar]

Yeah Dave that was what I was hoping to do, that would do the same thing as the "I" termanal on the old style starter solinoid the way I see it.

[Roadstar]

Ok just got off the phone with the guy that has givin me alot of direction over the years and he said I need to run a diode in the wire or it will back feed the starter once the engine starts and want to turn the starter motor back on, uhhhh cant have that.

So it seems I can still wire the way I thought but just put a diode in the 12volt wire to the coil.

[GPster]

Wouldn't a Ford style solenoid give you that switching? The one with 2 large and 2 small terminals. GPster

[Dave]

Ok just got off the phone with the guy that has givin me alot of direction over the years and he said I need to run a diode in the wire or it will back feed the starter once the engine starts and want to turn the starter motor back on, uhhhh cant have that.

So it seems I can still wire the way I thought but just put a diode in the 12volt wire to the coil.

I wonder bout that rudy.. The diode thing is more for feedback from the alternator. When the alt feeds back the car wont shut off. In the case of the starter the switch should isolate it cause its only engaged in the start position not the run position..  Hope im not way over your head here..
Ill check back tomorrow at work if you need anything..
Dave

[enjenjo]

Dave, it will feed back through the resistor.

I would suggest using a relay to isolate it.  you can wire it to work with the starter, and get the 12 volts from the ignition switch side of the ballast resistor.

[Pep]

I used a diode on my mate 318 about 25 years ago in that situation. It's still there now. He needed 12v on start, so I just got a 10 amp diode ( by memory ) and connected that in series to the coil from the solenoid terminal. Have the diode with the white ring end on the coil side. You need the diode so the voltage from the "run" condition ( 7 volt side or near enough ) won't pull the solenoid on when you have turned the ignition from the start  to the normal position.  The positive side of the coil is commoned to both. One wire will go to the resistor, the other to the solenoid via the diode.

[Dave]

Wire to start terminal on starter and to coil from s terminal on ignition switch Puts 12v to coil and to starter solenoid when switch is turned to start position. Wire from run position or possibly I position on ignition switch to ballast resistor . Puts 12v to resistor in run position. Diode prevents feed back to starter from coil. If its a good quality switch no need for a relay your just pulling in a solenoid.. Wire from I poisition on switch to a 3 wire alternator should have a diode in line to prevent feed back from the alternator to the switch to the ballast resistor or hei ignition. This would be the brown wire I believe it is that energizes the alternator. A relay could be used for preventing feed back from the alternator also.

Dave  

Why not a regular gm starter with the proper solenoid and avoid all the wiring problems :?:

[Roadstar]

You know I have been thinking about just puting an original style starter in the car and be done with it.

I am confident the diode will work and I figured I could use a relay as well, but In an effort to keep it simple I may just go get a rebuilt starter and call it a day. I just had the hight torque one on the shelf and like how well they have performed in the past, but I don't have headers and hot start is probably the most common issue with the old GM starters.

[Dave]

You know I have been thinking about just puting an original style starter in the car and be done with it.

I am confident the diode will work and I figured I could use a relay as well, but In an effort to keep it simple I may just go get a rebuilt starter and call it a day. I just had the hight torque one on the shelf and like how well they have performed in the past, but I don't have headers and hot start is probably the most common issue with the old GM starters.

Ive run the stock style with shorty headers rudy and no problem.. They clear nice.. Now if your running sanderson full length headers or patroits etc then it could and i say could be a problem..A lot of it has to do with the quality of the starter. The reason they dont work is really not a header issue but the fact that the armature is too close to the stator or coils in the starter. heat expands the stuff then it rubs which slows down the starter. Ok heat doesnt help but if the starter is properly designed it may not even see the heat and work just fine..
Dave

[47 ragtop]

Go to a GM or Delco dealer and buy a Delco rebuilt starter. It will come complete with a new delco solenoid. Yes they cost more than an Autozone or Advance starter, but it will be last forever and will never have any hot start issues. This comes from working at the same Chevy dealership for 33 plus years, my last day was june 29,2007. I may starve now,but I am so glad to be gone !!!

[PeterR]

You know I have been thinking about just puting an original style starter in the car and be done with it.

I have used both methods, and they work well, however would suggest using the relay if other people are likely to work on the vehicle, as the diode is so small it can be difficult to spot unless its presence is known.

My preferred method is to mount a small relay (the type used for a headlight or cooling fan) using the same bolt that holds the ballast resistor.   Run two short wires from the relay contact terminals the resistor terminals. One of the relay coil terminals wired to the mounting bolt for a ground, the other to the starter terminal.   When the starter is activated the relay simply bridges the resistor.        

I suspect you could install a relay like this in less time than doing a starter swap and any person spotting it later would instantly recognise its function.

[Mikej]

If you don't have the side panels, on the hood, the stock starter should work.

[Dave]

If you don't have the side panels, on the hood, the stock starter should work.

I gotta disagree with ya here. My 32 had smooth side panels on it when i first built it and I changed to 4 row louvered ones for asthetic reasons and i never had any thouble and i had a advance auto rebuilt starter on it. I had a full hood on my 34 also and no trouble..
Dave