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Update:  I found out that once the rack was removed you could see a crack about 1.5" long where the housing had split.

It was a brand new rack,,,,,,,,,,,,,, :oops:  Oh well, win some loose some.

I attended a "air suspension clinic" some time ago and the truck they used as an example had full air bag suspension,,,,,, only thing was there were no stops on the suspension so when he let the air out of the bags the wheels were stuffed right up into the fenders and jammed there.  Now imagine if this was to happen at 60 mi/hr.      The outfit that held the course just was out to sell the bags/pumps. :evil:  There is alot of poor work/planning and bad info out there alright

Well he hooked his hoses up opposite and blew the seals out of his rack.  :evil: So bad move :oops:

I'll check that out,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, thanks :oops:  :(D)  :(D)  :(U)

Well I hope he has a son or a nephew who wants and old car one day :(D)

This is on my friends '37 coupe.    He put a standard ford pump connected to a mustang rack. He complains that it is stiff and doesn't feel like power steering. Also he says it has a stiff feeling especially when recovering from a turn. It's all quite new and could be just needs break in.
         Thanks for your excellent comments, RRT is such an excellent forum. );b(

Ok gearheads,,, can you use a conventional power steering pump on a rack and pinion steering system? Is there a preasure issue?

Now that was one gathering I'm sorry I missed........ Loved the rusty stuff.     Great posting,,,,,,,, thanks

I might be abit "out there" :oops:  but,,,,,, I have an old willys pickup and I pulled off the original 8 leaf front springs and put on a set of 11 leaf springs that I just went over and cleaned them up and checked for cracks etc and wound up with a smoother ride (if that is possible in a willys)
The leafs were thinner and more flexible even though there were more of them.,,,,, oh well,, see what I mean,, sort of "out there" :(D)

Thanks guys! Basically told me what I already knew but hey, thought there might be some "magic"solution out there. Where I live a recore is about $350 and a boil out and rodding is $200. There is a place where they will build you whatever you want out of aluminum (dam, how do you spell that) :oops: for about $400.      Oh well, now to decide where to throw my hard earned cash.    Might try steam cleaner decalcifier,,,,, I'll let you know if my rad melts.

Does anyone know of a really good rad cleaner? I have this rad it's 50 yrs old but mint and I have a flow problem with it,,,,,,,,,,, is recore my only hope?

Good Luck!   You would think that there is such a chart except nobody has coils with same spring diameter. Lighter load, smaller diameter sort of thing.  If you are going coil-overs the different makers will provide what you need but each one will be different. Everything will be determined by the curb weight of your car. I built a T bucket and even with that light of a car it was a bit of a pain to get the right spring rate. I know there are members here who more than likely know more about this than any of the dealers do.
         Good luck,, it sounds interesting,,,, post us some pics.

Interesting,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, just got used to square headlights though    Have to admit that the auto industry of today can sure make some fast style changes compared to the days of yorn where a big change was the number of bars in the grill.

Could your e-fan possibly be "stalling" at highway speeds because of air flow greater than what it can handle?
      Had the same problem with my '57 Willys PU with SB in it. Put a good shroud on the rad and that cured it, also put in a 160 Therm.

You are right it shouldn't but,,,,,,,,,,,, Talked it up with some buds and two had same experience with heat at highway speeds,,,,,,,, both had head gasket problems.