Wide band exhaust sensor

[Crosley.In.AZ]

What are the current options for a budget minded guy for a wide band air-fuel ratio  sensor setup?

I see stuff on eBay and various discussion boards.  Data logging capable and non-data logging hookups  

[wayne petty]

going wide band... with a data logger>......


hmm......    sounds like fun....    

since you don't need the speedo... or if you do...   how about getting a later model speedo speed sensor so you can log the drive shaft speed...

a detonation sensor to listen for knocking ...

i take it that you already have the electronic ignition...  so getting rpm will be no problem...

as long as you are supplying 5 volts for the various device ... how about a map sensor..

i know... that this is over kill...  but if you really want to record it ... might as well use all the data channels..

hmm... just thinking... there are applications that allow ipods to record multiple channels of audio...   i wonder if they have any that would work with a car...  probably still need and interface box..

just as long as you don't tune you motor to the 1812th overture....  boom chaka laka laka   boom chaka laka...




i did see a whole bunch out there and some shootouts on various magazine sites...

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Wayne ..........slow down!  

I'm gathering information.

A photo of a spark plug in my Ford 6 ... the  heat trail mark on the electrode indicates the motor was lean.. the heat mark goes past the curve of the electrode  towards the spark plug main body.  That is bad

[wayne petty]

that looks like one of the hottest heat range plugs there is...   instead of the other ones i pointed out with the retracted tip...  

which carb.....  what size jets...  so i can dig into my pile for replacements for you...     i have a huge pile of old dead carbs...  gathered over the years..   most are only for parts...  linkages or a throttle plate or so...

its cheep to mail jets...   i might even find the 2 bbl adaptor...

i even went back through some of your older posts.. to see if i could see which carb is on there...

i just had a stupid idea....     got any 2100 ford carbs laying around... behind the accelerator pump push rod there are numbers cast in positive.. 1.02, 1.06. 1.12, 1.16 1.18, 1.21, 1.23, 1.28....   that denotes the size of the venturi...   the 1.28 versions came off 351/400 C,M  fords...  why not since they are easy to get into the metering.. make your adaptor plate so  you can mount a 2100 with one barrel centered over the single opening in your adaptor plate...   plug off the unused main jet..  plug the power valve  restriction,   the idle circuit.. and one side of the accelerator pump shooter..   this would give you a fairly large one barrel carb for almost nothing...   the only think i would do is put a notch in the plate so the other throttle blade can swing without hitting anything..

i think there is a big rochester carb from a 250/292 chevy six back there.. but it will probably take some work..

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Heat range involves the design of the inner core ,  length of porcelain , contact area of porcelain to transfer heat away from electrode.  I am sure you know that stuff.....  Generally extended tip plugs have more heat transfer built it because they are extended tip

I do not need jets for the 1 barrel...  I find no name on it, don't know what it is, I am not using it any longer.

I am bolting a Holley 4412 carb onto the engine with an adapter that I am in process of machining from a chunk of aluminum..  I have plenty of jets for a Holley.

I may go as far as to pull the head off the engine....  dis assemble the head and machine it up for a direct mount for the Holley 2 barrel

Holley 2 barrel comes with #73 jets.  I may use that size and change the power valve to a lower vacuum rated unit.

When I get enough fuel and air into the engine , I may run it with open header.    ... that will scare the small children.

I have two of these 4412 carbs.  I may send one off for annular discharge nozzles

[wayne petty]

ok... i get it now...

i do understand heat ranges... smaller openings around the center electrode are usually cooler..   retracted tips are also cooler..  the exposed extended tips like you have posted are HOT plugs.. unless i am totally wrong...

what brand plugs did you decide on..

as for installing larger booster venturi's...  who needs them...

[Crosley.In.AZ]

many plugs are extended tip....  depending on the design and material in the porcelain along with the length the heat must travel to the base material to transfer heat.

The Autolite plug #45 I used appears to be in the middle range of heat transfer... IF I understand the Autolite number system.  There is an Autolite #46 plug , which should be a hotter plug..

I am looking at some Autolite  AR33 plugs or the NGK equal # 2127 for  the next race track adventure.  These were used in the HP Ford 302 motors, my compression should be similar

I will have the 2 barrel on the car and certainly will be richer.

I enjoy reading your ideas



Regarding the wide band sensors... I've looked at Summit and Jegs. They seem to sell only accessories to the wide band gauge kits.  Summit does carry an Accel unit.

The brand Innovate seems to be popular and reasonable priced.  IF I can sell some parts , I've like to buy one when $$ permits.

I may buy another cylinder head to cut up first.  

[wayne petty]

many plugs are extended tip....  depending on the design and material in the porcelain along with the length the heat must travel to the base material to transfer heat.

The Autolite plug #45 I used appears to be in the middle range of heat transfer... IF I understand the Autolite number system.  There is an Autolite #46 plug , which should be a hotter plug..

I am looking at some Autolite  AR33 plugs or the NGK equal # 2127 for  the next race track adventure.  These were used in the HP Ford 302 motors, my compression should be similar

yes the autolite is a hotter plug... the 124 is colder...   the AR33  in next cooler then the AR32...


for ngk... you might check out the 2210  as the 2127 is exactly what you have... as far as i can tell... the ngk 1024 looks very similar to the 2210...
same heat range... and both cooler than the 2127...

i take it that you did check out the link at http://www.sparkplugs.com/

click on the advanced tuners link at the bottom of the page   you can then search by thread size and gasket or tapered...  most brands of plugs are shown with thumbnails of the threaded end...

one more.. thing...    you put a dura spark distributer in it.. right...

did you get the adaptor from like an 78 to 82 fairmont 200... so you can use the large cap for 8mm wires.(or larger).. the later rotor fits also... and the external frame coil also will work great with the duraspark module...
instead of the can of coil....

[Crosley.In.AZ]

the cross over chart  I looked at shows the AR33 equal in NGK is the 2127

that is where the heat range charts worry me.  There seems to be confusion on my part.

[1FATGMC]

Now that Innovate has the LM-2 out I've heard that some Lm-1's are going for as little as $100 on e-bay, but haven't looked myself.  You would still probably have to spend $75 for the WB sensor, but it would be a good deal.  Innovate is one of the few that will calibrate itself with a new or old sensor at any time.  Get one and you will be able to data log the air/fuel and up to 5 other 5 volt inputs.  It isn't hard to hook up a TPS to it for next to nothing (I have one option on my site, but a GM TPS that has a lever arm is even easier).  Seeing what the throttle position is at the same time as the air/fuel is really important.

Let me know if I can help.  I'm on the road right now, but will keep checking back in,

Sum

P.S.  I wouldn't buy anything, but the Innovate.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Sum,

i  have seen them on ebay... used & new.

The used units concern me since I do not know what all is needed to operate the unit.  

Some have the O2 sensor, some not.. What about the software needed?

Then  other auctions may  mention a power cord is needed.

[wayne petty]

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support.php

the manuals..  from innovate

and some videos

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/lm101.php

[1FATGMC]

Sum,

i  have seen them on ebay... used & new.

The used units concern me since I do not know what all is needed to operate the unit.  

Some have the O2 sensor, some not.. What about the software needed?

Then  other auctions may  mention a power cord is needed.

Like Wayne mentioned the manuals are on line and I can help.  Not too much to it, but you do go through a couple steps to calibrate it to a new sensor and you should also do this to an old one every once in a while, but it takes less than a minute.

I would buy a use one of these over any new one from someone else regardless of the price.  If you can pick up one without the sensor a new one will cost about $75 and then you would know it is good.

A wide band O2 needs a controller always and that is what the LM-1 is.  The data logging it has is an added feature.  With most the controller has been pre-programed to work with a sensor and if you put a different sensor on it it might not be accurate.  It is not like adding a narrow band sensor to your street car.  The Innovate controllers will calibrate themselves to any sensor, new or old and will recalibrate themselves to different oxygen conditions.  Most other ones won't.  Read up on how they work on their site.

c ya,

Sum

[Crosley.In.AZ]

I've been reading the information at the link Wayne provided.

[unklian]

I've seen a DIY Wideband kit, somewhere.