I am building a COE what Dodge van should I use?

[Crosley.In.AZ]

I tend to agree with tomslik... sounds of eggspeariance he had with his COE.

I'd go with a diesel power chassis

[phat rat]

I was using a 500 Cad/T400 and was going to put the radiator up front with tubing running back to the motor. Also planned on two fresh air tubes running from behind the grille to a special built air cleaner. The dryer vent tubeing is a nice size. As Tslick advised use a 3/4T frame and you'll never have to worry about it  You don't need an extended or crewcab frame either, a regular cab frame is long enough. If I'm remembering right that Dodge cab you bought is fairly narrow and engine behind would give you a nice cab interior with a flat floor and plenty of footroom. I don't know for sure about motorhome frames but it would seem like those frames and tread width would be too wide. The trans hook-up is simplified by using a cable shifter like B & M

[GPster]

I thought there was someone here that had a tendency  to junking out Frito Lay trucks. I think he usually could put his hands on 454"s. Also we seemed to have a person that worked on Motor Homes. He's probably real busy this weekend but hopefully by Monday night he will have a clear head. Doesn't sound like a "drop it on a frame and drive it away" job. Maybe a real early Econoline. I don'y remember the 100 series but I  think there were frames under the 200 series. It seems that there are some school buses that are stub nosed . The 20 passenger ones must be on a lighter chassis because some don't have dual wheels on the back. GPster

[tomslik]

I thought there was someone here that had a tendency  to junking out Frito Lay trucks. I think he usually could put his hands on 454"s. Also we seemed to have a person that worked on Motor Homes. He's probably real busy this weekend but hopefully by Monday night he will have a clear head. Doesn't sound like a "drop it on a frame and drive it away" job. Maybe a real early Econoline. I don'y remember the 100 series but I  think there were frames under the 200 series. It seems that there are some school buses that are stub nosed . The 20 passenger ones must be on a lighter chassis because some don't have dual wheels on the back. GPster

well, i wouldn't use a twin I beem for anything;)



anyway, i used the original 2 ton frame and rear springs under my 47 (late 46 stlye) chevy with a 73 suburban  1/2t front suspension.
You MIGHT get by with 1/2t IF the motor is behind the cab.....

[Crosley.In.AZ]

I wonder if the engine is behind the COE cab ... is the heat less of a problem as tomslik suggests on the radiator  size?

[GPster]

well, i wouldn't use a twin I beem for anything;)

I'd agree with that. That's why I mentioned early Econoline. Up to '66 they had a straight front axel with the engine mid-way in the chassis (between/behind the driver). They also were narrower and might have a tread width more suitable to the Dodge's COE fenders. GPster

[tomslik]

I wonder if the engine is behind the COE cab ... is the heat less of a problem as tomslik suggests on the radiator  size?

i guess i'm still on the short bus....
what are you asking?
would the heat be less if the engine was behind the cab?
well, yeah.....
you're still gonna get some from the radiator but not near as much because the big chunk of cast iron (engine,exhaust manifolds) won't be there...

[tomslik]

well, i wouldn't use a twin I beem for anything;)

I'd agree with that. That's why I mentioned early Econoline. Up to '66 they had a straight front axel with the engine mid-way in the chassis (between/behind the driver). They also were narrower and might have a tread width more suitable to the Dodge's COE fenders. GPster

were they not unibodies?


btw, the rears were around 59" wide...

[enjenjo]

well, i wouldn't use a twin I beem for anything;)

I'd agree with that. That's why I mentioned early Econoline. Up to '66 they had a straight front axel with the engine mid-way in the chassis (between/behind the driver). They also were narrower and might have a tread width more suitable to the Dodge's COE fenders. GPster

were they not unibodies?


btw, the rears were around 59" wide...

So was the front. They used the same axles as a Full size Ford car.

A guy down the road has the ideal engine for a COE, Deutz air Diesel, no radiator. It's hooked to a 727 Torqueflite trans.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

I wonder if the engine is behind the COE cab ... is the heat less of a problem as tomslik suggests on the radiator  size?

i guess i'm still on the short bus....
what are you asking?
would the heat be less if the engine was behind the cab?
well, yeah.....
you're still gonna get some from the radiator but not near as much because the big chunk of cast iron (engine,exhaust manifolds) won't be there...

I did not eggsplain my line of thought.

IF the engine is not under the cab, would that lessen the heat in the cab.

lessen the heat the engine retains and the need for a larger radiator to remove the heat .

IF the engine is behind the cab , there would be more air circulation around the engine.

As an eggsample...

a friend just installed the hood sections on his 48 Anglia since they were finally finished / painted.  The engine in the Anglia would operate at 185*F on the gauge before the hood / side panels install.

Since the hood & side panel install, the engine now operates at 210*F.  The hood has the OE grill openings to allow heat out.  All that changed was the install of the hood pieces and a 30*F change in operating temp happened.

Obviously the heat can not get out as easy now as it could with the open engine compartment.

[tomslik]

I wonder if the engine is behind the COE cab ... is the heat less of a problem as tomslik suggests on the radiator  size?

i guess i'm still on the short bus....
what are you asking?
would the heat be less if the engine was behind the cab?
well, yeah.....
you're still gonna get some from the radiator but not near as much because the big chunk of cast iron (engine,exhaust manifolds) won't be there...

I did not eggsplain my line of thought.

IF the engine is not under the cab, would that lessen the heat in the cab.

lessen the heat the engine retains and the need for a larger radiator to remove the heat .

IF the engine is behind the cab , there would be more air circulation around the engine.

As an eggsample...

a friend just installed the hood sections on his 48 Anglia since they were finally finished / painted.  The engine in the Anglia would operate at 185*F on the gauge before the hood / side panels install.

Since the hood & side panel install, the engine now operates at 210*F.  The hood has the OE grill openings to allow heat out.  All that changed was the install of the hood pieces and a 30*F change in operating temp happened.

Obviously the heat can not get out as easy now as it could with the open engine compartment.

yep, that's what i thought you meant....
and you'd be correct PLUS if a guy did some creative ducting, he could make the radiator more efficiant....and build a cooler in the floor,too;)

[Crosley.In.AZ]

I wonder if the engine is behind the COE cab ... is the heat less of a problem as tomslik suggests on the radiator  size?

i guess i'm still on the short bus....
what are you asking?
would the heat be less if the engine was behind the cab?
well, yeah.....
you're still gonna get some from the radiator but not near as much because the big chunk of cast iron (engine,exhaust manifolds) won't be there...

I did not eggsplain my line of thought.

IF the engine is not under the cab, would that lessen the heat in the cab.

lessen the heat the engine retains and the need for a larger radiator to remove the heat .

IF the engine is behind the cab , there would be more air circulation around the engine.

As an eggsample...

a friend just installed the hood sections on his 48 Anglia since they were finally finished / painted.  The engine in the Anglia would operate at 185*F on the gauge before the hood / side panels install.

Since the hood & side panel install, the engine now operates at 210*F.  The hood has the OE grill openings to allow heat out.  All that changed was the install of the hood pieces and a 30*F change in operating temp happened.

Obviously the heat can not get out as easy now as it could with the open engine compartment.

yep, that's what i thought you meant....
and you'd be correct PLUS if a guy did some creative ducting, he could make the radiator more efficiant....and build a cooler in the floor,too;)

now.... with that line of thought;

would a Southern Air  heat-cool-defrost unit work better?

[2rods]

I too am thinking of a COE build. There is a 40 ford 4 door down the road but has no frame. If I used a diesel 3/4T frame would it be better to move engine back like suggested? Wouldn't that take away from deck or whatever one puts behind cab? You would have to build a cover also right?

[tomslik]

I wonder if the engine is behind the COE cab ... is the heat less of a problem as tomslik suggests on the radiator  size?

i guess i'm still on the short bus....
what are you asking?
would the heat be less if the engine was behind the cab?
well, yeah.....
you're still gonna get some from the radiator but not near as much because the big chunk of cast iron (engine,exhaust manifolds) won't be there...

I did not eggsplain my line of thought.

IF the engine is not under the cab, would that lessen the heat in the cab.

lessen the heat the engine retains and the need for a larger radiator to remove the heat .

IF the engine is behind the cab , there would be more air circulation around the engine.

As an eggsample...

a friend just installed the hood sections on his 48 Anglia since they were finally finished / painted.  The engine in the Anglia would operate at 185*F on the gauge before the hood / side panels install.

Since the hood & side panel install, the engine now operates at 210*F.  The hood has the OE grill openings to allow heat out.  All that changed was the install of the hood pieces and a 30*F change in operating temp happened.

Obviously the heat can not get out as easy now as it could with the open engine compartment.

yep, that's what i thought you meant....
and you'd be correct PLUS if a guy did some creative ducting, he could make the radiator more efficiant....and build a cooler in the floor,too;)

now.... with that line of thought;

would a Southern Air  heat-cool-defrost unit work better?

hah!
   


just for the record,ANY evaporator will get cold, it's the rest of the housing that's a POS....

hey, while we're at it, i installed a heat/cool/def from classic auto air (i think was the name) in a 69 bonneville convert.
so far i like it...instructions are mediocre but if you've ever installed a southern air....

[348tripower]

Two of the Southern Air units. They work, quality?  
Frank,  
Will the guy down the road sell the diesel?
Please keep this thread going! Very interesting and informative.

I wonder if the engine is behind the COE cab ... is the heat less of a problem as tomslik suggests on the radiator  size?

i guess i'm still on the short bus....
what are you asking?
would the heat be less if the engine was behind the cab?
well, yeah.....
you're still gonna get some from the radiator but not near as much because the big chunk of cast iron (engine,exhaust manifolds) won't be there...

I did not eggsplain my line of thought.

IF the engine is not under the cab, would that lessen the heat in the cab.

lessen the heat the engine retains and the need for a larger radiator to remove the heat .

IF the engine is behind the cab , there would be more air circulation around the engine.

As an eggsample...  

a friend just installed the hood sections on his 48 Anglia since they were finally finished / painted.  The engine in the Anglia would operate at 185*F on the gauge before the hood / side panels install.

Since the hood & side panel install, the engine now operates at 210*F.  The hood has the OE grill openings to allow heat out.  All that changed was the install of the hood pieces and a 30*F change in operating temp happened.

Obviously the heat can not get out as easy now as it could with the open engine compartment.

yep, that's what i thought you meant....
and you'd be correct PLUS if a guy did some creative ducting, he could make the radiator more efficiant....and build a cooler in the floor,too;)

now.... with that line of thought;

would a Southern Air  heat-cool-defrost unit work better?

hah!
     


just for the record,ANY evaporator will get cold, it's the rest of the housing that's a POS....

hey, while we're at it, i installed a heat/cool/def from classic auto air (i think was the name) in a 69 bonneville convert.
so far i like it...instructions are mediocre but if you've ever installed a southern air....