frame tilt?? HELP trying to fix today

[Welder Series]

how is the spring attached to the front crossmember?  If you're using U-bolts, try loosening them off and see if that lets the spring level out.  

When you reinstall the nuts, try to tighten them evenly all the way.  What I mean is don't tighten one nut all the way, then another nut, etc.  They should be tightened evenly.

[Dave]

how is the spring attached to the front crossmember?  If you're using U-bolts, try loosening them off and see if that lets the spring level out.  

When you reinstall the nuts, try to tighten them evenly all the way.  What I mean is don't tighten one nut all the way, then another nut, etc.  They should be tightened evenly.

thats a good idea but on mine it has the new style plate under the spring and the 2 tabs welded to the center cross member with 2 bolts to pull it down.. From all the calculations i did on mine i cant believe there is anything wrong with the frame and from what i see the frame would have to be a mile out to affect the spring like that.. If davey's is like mine the car visibly sets crooked . I havent  really looked at mine lately and ill check it again for fun this week cause i put another 100 miles on it yesterday.. The other thing i wonder is how much tension is on the spring? Mine took no effort at all to hang on the shackles and that may be part of the problem... The shackles arent near hitting the axle or anything but the spring seems soft and its brand new.. So my theory is its not pulling enuff on the shackles and thats a contributing factor to the lean.. But ive been wrong before... Once  
Dave  

[Welder Series]

wouldn't happen to be a Welder Series kit, would it?  

Is there a gap between the tabs welded to the crossmember, and the lower, 3/8" thick plate?


Going back to the original question, I'm having a hard time seeing the hair pins having anything to do with this... if the car is on the ground, there's really only one place the hair pins can be.  I'd go front to back with a level and make sure all the crossmembers are parallel looking from the front or back.  I'm not saying level because if the floor isn't level, you're going to be chasing the problem.  
You said it still leans after flipping the spring... is it still leaning the same way, or did it follow the spring?  I'm assuming it's still leaning the same way.....

Like C9 said, disconnect the panhard and see if it was pulling the frame.  

I just thought of this now... not sure how accurate you can get: take the spring off, lay it on its side on a big piece of paper.  Fixture the eyes somehow then draw the arc on the paper.  Flip the spring, putting the eyes in the exact same position.  Now draw the arc again and compare the lines.  If I'm on straight today, the lines should be the same...

I guess the other way you could check the spring is to lay it on its side, then put a straight edge along the bottom of the eyes.  With a square, measure from fixed points from each eye, up to the spring and compare the measurements.  

sorry you're having troubles, but this is fun trying to solve it

[Dave]

wouldn't happen to be a Welder Series kit, would it?  

Is there a gap between the tabs welded to the crossmember, and the lower, 3/8" thick plate?

I didnt look tonite ill check it tomorrow but im sure its ok... I dont know who's setup it is.. Ill make a new post on ther pics of the rear shock brackets
Dave  

[Beck]

I think this is a  common problem. I had it with my last 2 builds. Both had coil overs in the rear. One was cross lief front. The other was an IFS. I tried to compensate for it by jacking one rear spring harder on the traditional front suspended car. I tried flopping the front spring too, nothing helped. On the IFS car I just jacked both front and rear springs harder on one side. Guys probably wondered what I was doing every time I parked. I would get out and push the top of the car over to straighten it out a little.  My chassis were from a pro shops with all the jigs.

[Dave]

I think this is a  common problem. I had it with my last 2 builds. Both had coil overs in the rear. One was cross lief front. The other was an IFS. I tried to compensate for it by jacking one rear spring harder on the traditional front suspended car. I tried flopping the front spring too, nothing helped. On the IFS car I just jacked both front and rear springs harder on one side. Guys probably wondered what I was doing every time I parked. I would get out and push the top of the car over to straighten it out a little.  My chassis were from a pro shops with all the jigs.

Well at least i know its not the Gin im drinking now but it does help level it out  );b(  :b-d:  :b-d:
Dave  

[Mikej]

I will check the shackles.
But the car sits low front and back if that help anyone

If I understand this correctly, the car is leaning to the passenger side front and rear? You might check the weights on all 4 corners.

[wayne petty]

I think this is a  common problem. I had it with my last 2 builds. Both had coil overs in the rear. One was cross lief front. The other was an IFS. I tried to compensate for it by jacking one rear spring harder on the traditional front suspended car. I tried flopping the front spring too, nothing helped. On the IFS car I just jacked both front and rear springs harder on one side. Guys probably wondered what I was doing every time I parked. I would get out and push the top of the car over to straighten it out a little.  My chassis were from a pro shops with all the jigs.

i have a simular problem with the fairlane project....

the suspension is binding and the body is slightly bent...

the car will just not settle...  i even punched multi hole shackles, swapped springs .. front and rear...   made wooden pads for the uneven work area...

i do have a secret weapon.... screw type jack stands...   and a laser level...    i plan on