Ganged Electric connector

WZ JUNK · March 27, 2008, 10:05:20 AM

This is a connector I recently purchased at Lowes. It enables you to make 8 connections into one common connection. I plan to use them on dash panels where you have multiple leads for ground, gauge lights, and gauge power. It will take one connector for each of these circuits. The connector could be glued or double sided taped together and then attached to the back of the panel or just left to be wire tied with the bundle. You strip the wire and push it into the connector and it works like a Chinese handcuff to capture the lead. They are about $5 for a pack of 10. The company is GB Gardner Bender part number is 25-PC8

John

enjenjo · March 27, 2008, 10:36:19 AM

Thanks John. I'll take a look at them.

GPster · March 27, 2008, 11:11:13 AM

If you happen to be junking an S10 there is a dandy junction for spade connectors . The dashes with gauges (and so much plastic) brings alll the grounds out separately. All the engine computor senders rely on an engine ground rather than an engine to chassis to body so junctions like that might be more helpful than the spade terminal one I saved. GPster

Bill Adkins · March 27, 2008, 11:42:53 AM

Personally I like to use the blocks supplied at marine stores using eylet connections, the ones you describe are usually for low currect and or voltage applications and can cause future problems.
Bill

enjenjo · March 27, 2008, 11:57:44 AM

A dash connector is a low voltage/low current application. I check the manufacturer, and they are rated at 600V, 10AMP.

Jbird · March 27, 2008, 12:40:05 PM

John, you should get some kind of reward. You've just made my next two instrument panel wiring jobs something to look forward too. I'm off to Lowes. Jbird

Bill Adkins · March 27, 2008, 01:06:21 PM

You are correct in that an automotive system is considered low voltage. I worked with Mercedes Benz and in that application low voltage is 500 mv in a comunication network between computers. An acc system can consume as much as 30 amps by itself, a fuel pump 7- 12 amps and a sound system control module had a 20 amp fuse so to modernise or update an older vehicle could easily overtax a 10 amp power supply connector. Evan a ground circuit carries the same currect flow though the voltage is read at 0 volts providing the ground circuit has no issues.
Sorry for any confusion, just trying to be helpful.
Bill

enjenjo · March 27, 2008, 02:03:09 PM

No problem Bill. John posted this because We were talking about the connector on chat last night. The application we are using it for, dash gauges, only draws 4 amps for the entire dash set. So it is really overkill for that use. I would not use it on a high amp circuit, I use Weatherpac connectors that are rated for that.

Welcome to the RRT. Post some details if you don't mind. Curious minds need to know.

phat rat · March 27, 2008, 08:12:49 PM

I don't know if Parr still has them but they used to have them for 15 wires and that made it real handy under the dash

Dave · March 28, 2008, 09:47:19 AM

Quote from: "phat rat"I don't know if Parr still has them but they used to have them for 15 wires and that made it real handy under the dash

I have some of the parr connectors left over from the coupe build and used a couple on the roadster.. I make all my dash panels plug in so in a few minutes I can have he whole dash out and on the bench if need be.. Its never happened yet but if it does im good..
Dave

enjenjo · March 28, 2008, 04:24:52 PM

I wired a dash yesterday, on the bench. I used Packard 56 series connectors, because I had them

butch27 · March 28, 2008, 09:47:44 PM

I don't care for those push in captive connectors . Cars vibrate too much and the wires could break.

WZ JUNK · March 29, 2008, 07:19:57 AM

Quote from: "butch27"I don't care for those push in captive connectors . Cars vibrate too much and the wires could break.

I thought about that some but I decided that these will work fine. I will place a wire tie around all the leads near the connector when I am finished to act as a strain relief and I will probably glue or stick the connector to something solid.

I like to solder wires but it turns out there are some real issues with solder joints. One that comes to mind is the fact that it makes the wiring rigid in the area of the joint, which can cause a mechanical failure because of the flexible wire near the solder joint. A solid point intersecting a flexible area, causing a hinge effect and a failure. Same thing that can cause the failure of this push in type of connector. So whether you use mechanical fasteners or solder connections I think you should use lots of wire ties and anchor the wiring so that it does not move around.

John

Bib_Overalls · April 01, 2008, 08:59:36 PM

I think tose are for solid rather than stranded wire. Electricians here are starting to use them.

Beck · April 01, 2008, 09:13:54 PM

Quote from: "WZ JUNK"This is a connector I recently purchased at Lowes. It enables you to make 8 connections into one common connection. I plan to use them on dash panels where you have multiple leads for ground, gauge lights, and gauge power. It will take one connector for each of these circuits. The connector could be glued or double sided taped together and then attached to the back of the panel or just left to be wire tied with the bundle. You strip the wire and push it into the connector and it works like a Chinese handcuff to capture the lead. They are about $5 for a pack of 10. The company is GB Gardner Bender part number is 25-PC8

John

I made a copy of this as soon as you posted it. I am wiring a dash for my current project. I don't have a Lowes nearby but I was going to try Home Depot. On the way there I remembered the copy was on my workbench at work, so I didn't go... Another senior moment..
I always solder my car wiring connections. I've never had a problem. Maybe I just don't drive them enough.