tightening auto tranny bolts

Started by Crosley.In.AZ, May 22, 2004, 12:35:49 AM

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Glen

Tighten her down til she snaps and back it off a quarter turn.......

German torqued.....Gudentite.

Leon

Quote from: "Crosley"I instaled 17 heli-coil inserts into this case.  
Isn't that what JB weld was made for?  :lol:

58 Yeoman

Tony, glad to see that you're cutting back on caffiene (caffiene free diet coke).  :lol:

My question would be, why did they start naming these transmissions with a lot of numbers and letters? 4R100, 4L60E, 626LXei, oops, I think that's a car? Just like the little appliance store down the street, has two trucks, numbered 46 and 698. I've never been that great with math, but I must've missed that class entirely.  Unlike Glen, I just tighten till it strips, then back off a 1/2 turn. :lol:
I survived the Hyfrecator 2000.

"Life is what happens when you're making other plans."
1967 Corvair 500 2dr Hardtop
1967 Corvair 500 4dr Hardtop
Phil

C9

I've been thinking about using studs and nylocks in the pan bolts on the new engine.
May go with bolts and blue Loctite instead since cleaning the pan rail can be a pain.
As well as the 430-455 Buick series has a 45 degrees or so break where it turns going from pan rail to bottom of timing cover.

Strikes me that with some of the nice gaskets you can get for the auto-trans pan rails the studs and nylocks would do well there.
Granted, difficult to achieve the correct torque, but you could draw them up to where the gasket was compressed about right and quit there.
The nylocks won't back off even when they're lightly torqued.

Don't some of the trans-pan gaskets have a built in steel ring that keeps the gasket from being compressed too far?
I've seen these in rocker cover gaskets and think they're a good idea.
C9

Sailing the turquoise canyons of the Arizona desert.