threaded inserts and install tool

[Crosley.In.AZ]

remind me where to buy threaded inserts and the tool...

I am talking about smalll stuff.   1/4 x 20 or smaller , like 10-32 for insert into sheet metal.

[unklian]

Mcmaster.com ?

[crdnblu]

remind me where to buy threaded inserts and the tool...

I am talking about smalll stuff.   1/4 x 20 or smaller , like 10-32 for insert into sheet metal.

I think that you're looking for a Marson Model MAR-39214 Steel Thread-sert Kit.  Check Google for sales sources.  I have the kit; it's great!

[1FATGMC]

remind me where to buy threaded inserts and the tool...

I am talking about small stuff.   1/4 x 20 or smaller , like 10-32 for insert into sheet metal.

I think I just got mine at the True Value Hardware here, but Home Depot would have them.  It is a tool like and can be used for pop rivets if that is what you mean.  I think Hooley has a heavier duty one that what I have, but I've use mine for the 10-24 -- 10-32 inserts like you mentioned with no problems.

BTW I can't find out how much the 4L80E control you mentioned in the other post sells for.  You guys have them on your web site, but I can't find a price or much about how they actually work, even on the link you posted.

c ya,

Sum

[Crosley.In.AZ]

BTW I can't find out how much the 4L80E control you mentioned in the other post sells for.  You guys have them on your web site, but I can't find a price or much about how they actually work, even on the link you posted.

c ya,

Sum

look around the net.  search for compushift controller prices or something similar .... the prices widely vary on this item.  we are at the higher end.

[wayne petty]

be sure to read this link


30 seconds ...

http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rivnut-tool.html

and google    riv nut tool


steel and aluminum riv nuts are available. and some expand the body and some slip inside themselfs .. those i was dissapointed with...as the riv nut had fallen apart when i removed the screw... be sure to test a few before doing the final install... it is really bad when you go to install the screw and the threads fall in to the door ......

[Crosley.In.AZ]

be sure to read this link


30 seconds ...

http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rivnut-tool.html

and google    riv nut tool


steel and aluminum riv nuts are available. and some expand the body and some slip inside themselfs .. those i was dissapointed with...as the riv nut had fallen apart when i removed the screw... be sure to test a few before doing the final install... it is really bad when you go to install the screw and the threads fall in to the door ......

interesting , I have visited that site several times when I was thinking of a FJR-1300 purchase



I found the mentioned kit Marson's 39214 online .... ranges from 62 dollars to 128 dollars for the same kit

[WZ JUNK]

I have a good one but I can not remember the brand.  I use different sizes and you have to change the die when you change the nutzert so I bought another set from Harbor Freight.  The tool works just as good as the brand name one that I already had but the Harbor Freight nutzerts are poor quality and only suited for light duty applicarions.  I buy the good nutzerts from Fastnal.  I use a lot of 1/4" size.

John

[GPster]

I'm surprised the "Keeper of the BBQ Trailer" hasn't replied. We used his when putting the fenders on it (or some other job) but  his may be tractor trailer quality. Runs in my mind that theycan also be found in a Dorman catalog but they might be bigger than you want. I think the previous mention of them was for body mounting on a boxed frame. Of course it's early and I may have missed the point. GPster

[Charlie Chops 1940]

Look at the AVK Industrial Products web site. The inserts that I use are the A-L Series at the top of the "Products" page, the insert tool I have looks like a pop-rivet gun - look at the "Tools" page. These inserts are steel and come in two lengths for thin and thicker material. I have tried aluminum inserts but have found them to not be worth the trip to buy them. The A-L series inserts work.

I bought mine as a kit from a local industrial supply house. Unfortunately they no longer carry the line, however they have comparable rivets.

I have found the AVK produsts to work great and I have used 100's of the nutserts and never had one fail  to properly install. The installation tool is probably a bit more exacting than the method shown in the link Wayne posted. I don't use them in high torque requirement areas. Mainly I use them for sheet metal fastening, light duty brackets, etc. I use a lot of S/S button heads in 10-32 and 1/4-28 threads.

Find yourself an AVK dealer and get the good stuff.

Charlie

[C9]

Are you in a situation where you can weld?

I make threaded weld bungs a couple different ways.
If I want a load spread beyond the weld I machine a step in suitably sized cold-rolled, drill and tap.
It get's installed into a step sized hole from the bottom and gets a thin ring of TIG.

You can skip the step and drill and tap then lightly chamfer the edges.
If the bung is 1/2" OD, drill the - frame? - 1/2", tap the bung in then weld.

For a better weld on this 2nd type chamfer a bit more.

Threaded plates work well.
Drill and tap, install to match the holes, bolt in place, several good strong tacks will do it.

On those Riv-Nut thingy's, some work well and other's spin.
I would not be afraid to mix the 'spinners' with JB Weld.
You'd want to make sure they were clean after cure time by running a tap in and out.

[Deuce]

I got mine ( RGS100 ) off the MAC Tools truck ...  



This one is on eBay now ...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAC-Tools-Heavy-Duty-Rivet-Kit-RGS100_W0QQitemZ230186356158QQihZ013QQcategoryZ35625QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

starts @ $4.99 plus 9 dollars shipping.

I also have a Mac SHR700 one with a swivel head ... works great in tight places ...

[enjenjo]

My two cents.

I but my inserts from McMasterCarr, they stock several types. My installation tools, I have several types, range from a pop rivet type with interchangeable mandrels, to a manufactured version of the one in the link. I also make special installation tools, as sometimes none that I have will work on a particular installation. The pop rivet type tool I have, I bought from Curtis Ind. many years ago, and is no longer sold, it is much better than the Marson tool, lots more leverage.

Like Wayne, I do not like the two piece inserts, they seem to fall apart, or slip, at the wrong time. The ones I like best, are one piece,  knurled on the outside, and it's almost impossible to make them slip.

McMaster also has a nut that is knurled on a step on the outside, you insert it from the back side, tap it into the hole so the knurl bites in, and tack weld it in place, they work nice for places you can reach from the back side.

I have had race cars wrecked that I used inserts on, and some of them pulled through, but the holes were distorted  to the point where a regular nut would have pulled through too.

[Welder Series]

I used "knife inserts" (not sure exactly what they're called) for attaching my a/c to the firewall, etc. where something is being attached to a soft material.  They won't work on steel.  

Here's a picture:


You can get them at Home Depot or a bolt supply store.  They have a machine screw in the ID and the coarse threads on the OD, and you screw them in with an allen wrench.

We went through a few different methods of putting threaded holes in Model A frame rails.  First was the riv nut type method.  They're great until/ if they spin, and if it's inside a tube it's a huge job to get the bolt undone --> taking the body off.  A few more in between, but the one we ended up with was weld nuts.  They're rectangular shaped and have threads in the middle.  You weld on the outsides and are left with a very strong attaching point.  Also remember that the thread is only going to be as good as the installation.

On '32 and '34 rails where we could get at the inside before they were boxed, our latest rendition was 3/8" thick square plates covering the location of the body mount holes from inside the rail.

This way, if the body holes were a bit off from the frame holes, it didn't matter because the customer could drill through the body, dimple the frame then just tap the plate.  The red line shows where the plate is.

[Charlie Chops 1940]

I have used nutserts sucessfully in fiberglass also. I mix up a dab of bonding agent and put it around the nutsert. It fills the serrations on the nutsert and seems to hold very well.

Charlie