The best way to seal the intake ends on a Small block Chevy?

Started by Learpilot, September 16, 2007, 08:29:23 PM

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Learpilot

Cork alone, Coke with Silly cone or Silly cone alone. Or something else ?
I have a friend that has a leak. Not me of course !
Thanks  !!!
Rick Harris.

Fat Cat

I myself have simply used the Permatex Ultra Black Silicone for the ends for years. GM has been doing them that way since the mid 80's. I tried one with the rubber end seals but after about 2 years they crack and dry out then they leak. I have never had one with silicone fail me. I just lay in a heavy bead of silicone and let it set foe about 10-15 minutes then set the intake in nice and sqaure and level. You can't move it around much once it comes down. That is where the leaks with silicone start from.

wayne petty

i have also used silicone for years.. clear, black , ultra grey. ultra black.  
i always used cheep brake cleaner from autozone to clean the surfaces first... yellow paper label, small green cap. i am irritated by some other brands.. one almost made me sick enough to go to the ER...

i use permatex 82 black weather strip adhesive.. it takes 4 days to get off my fingers.. 3m black only takes 2 days.. i place the end rails into the black 82 on the block then separate them.  let it air for a minute then install it..i always let it set for at least 30 minutes to get a good grip before i install the intake... i use ultra grey/black on the top to seal the top to the intake..
i also glue the ends of the intake gaskets to the top of the end rails once the end rails have been installed. and use short bolts to hold them inplace. .

once dry the intake gaskets do not move.. so when you set the intake on it is much better..  black/grey around the water passages and hylomar around the air and exhaust crossover passages... try not to let the glue dry more than 45 minutes before setting the intake on as it may be too hard/set up.

also go around 3 times with your torque wrench.. like the factory install  pattern  then once around the clock. to verify that they all are tight...

this means bring it up to torque the check it three times. this makes sure that it is properly torqued...   if anybody is using new style molded plastic gaskets... vortec .. be sure to not overtorque them...

oh yea... HYLOMAR... not the brand the material...i use it on most head gaskets...i do not like comebacks...since i began using in 1992 i have had only one comeback...it never drys... it does not wash off easily... i took apart a VW aircooled motor that was 15 years old and it was still soft...and it was still sealing... the current stuff available is a little thick for my liking but it is hard to find...permatex does not carry it anymore...

some of the speed parts houses may have it in spray or squeeze tubes...it is not coppercoat. it is not shellac...

Crosley.In.AZ

Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

wayne petty

Quote from: CrosleySillycone stuff .

NOPE...  synthetic stuff... designed for assembling rolls royce jet engines..
read on...  i also use an ink type roller sometimes when i can find it to roll it out...most of the time i use my fingers spreading it on both sides of the gasket..while holding the gasket.. yep it's sticky..and you want to drop the gasket on a prepaired deck surface. CLEAN... i did make a mistake one day.. another tech installed the head.. it has a little rust in the cooling areas.    he tapped the head with a hammer as it has hung up on the studs... yep.. rust in the hylomar and crushed alignment sleeves.

good for 600F gasoline and solvent resistant...

try these links..

http://www.hylomar-usa.com/

http://www.valco-cp.com/Hylomar.htm  

http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=434&SID=25befabb07b8db48c1a6033406e6dfc5

i bought out what my local autozone had in the recalled stock...
check with your local parts store or the guy who hangs the inventory there

Learpilot


Crosley.In.AZ

I use regular sillycone stuff.  Large tube for caulking gun works great.

Let it setup over night and then drive.

Works great.  Various colours available too
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

enjenjo

On aftermarket, and later model OE manifolds, the rubber or cork end seals can bend the ends of the manifold up enough to cause a water leak from the water ports in the heads, into the lifter gallery. So I only use a bead of silicone to seal the ends.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Dave

I do it my way.. some people really ever agreed with the way I do it and its not necessaraly the wrong way so ill let it remain a secret.. I will say its kinda like the book said ..
Dave :lol: