some progress on my shop

Started by J Man, September 12, 2007, 08:39:48 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

1FATGMC

I'm with some of the others, put up stud wall 2 foot on center and you could use 2 X 4's since they are none load bearing and bring them out to where you can put in 6 inch bats and then the vapor barrier on the inside side like was suggested.

The inside air since it is hotter can carry more water vapor in the air.  When that air hits the outside wall or somewhere inside the insulation where it becomes cooler then it can no longer carry the vapor and it condenses out and makes your insulation wet and ruins it.  The vapor barrier on the inside keeps the hotter moister air from penetrating into the insulation.

Also up above is where all the heat is going to go and unless you take care of that you will never keep it warm no matter how thick the insulation is in the walls.  When I finished my house it was about a month before I could blow the insulation in above the ceiling.  The temp in the house would drop from 70 to 50 overnight with no heat and that was early winter and with 6 inches in the walls and the sheetrock ceiling in place.  Once it had insulation (12 inches of blow-in) the temps would drop from 70 to about 62-64 overnight with no heat in the dead of winter when the outside was getting into the single digits.

I'm not criticizing your building or others, but the main thing I have against most steel buildings is that although they are cheaper to begin with they are very hard to insulate cheaply.  You still almost have to make a whole new wall and in some cases ceiling joists also if you want to insulate.  Make a "stick" shop and once the walls and trusses are up you are all set for different insulation and wall/ceiling covering options.  For unheated storage of equipment and such a steel type building can't be beat.

c ya,

Sum

J Man

Quote from: "1FATGMC"I'm with some of the others, put up stud wall 2 foot on center and you could use 2 X 4's since they are none load bearing and bring them out to where you can put in 6 inch bats and then the vapor barrier on the inside side like was suggested.

Thats what I plan to do. My walls are 5.5" deep and the bats I found at the local places are 6.5" thick. so there will be a little more than there is room for. It is R19. The 6 mil plastic is $75 for a 10x100 ft roll. doing this will be good ehough to get me through winter. And then when I sell the other house or in the spring or as extra money allows I will finish the rest. I will probibly not heat it this winter. My last building did not have heat so I will just freeze my but off like I did there for this winter.

Quote from: "1FATGMC"I'm not criticizing your building or others, but the main thing I have against most steel buildings is that although they are cheaper to begin with they are very hard to insulate cheaply.  You still almost have to make a whole new wall and in some cases ceiling joists also if you want to insulate.  Make a "stick" shop and once the walls and trusses are up you are all set for different insulation and wall/ceiling covering options.  For unheated storage of equipment and such a steel type building can't be beat

As far as the structure of the building I did nit have too much of a choice there. I just bought the house this year and the building was built before I was born. Buying the property I di was more cost effective then trying to do everything new.

Dave

Ill throw in my nickle.. I went to a place near the ohio michigan border that sells 1 inch 4x8 foam sheets pretty cheap. This has been like 10 years ago but they are still there.. I dunno what the r factor is on them but i did the whole garage /pole barn with em including the overhead door and its only 20x24 but it heats really well..  In my old 24x32 barn i used the celotex 1 inch foam sheets and i poured the blow in type insulation on top of that in the celing.. It heated well too.  I did do all but one and 1/2 of my walls with osb over the foam.. I thought drywall was only required if the garage was attached to the house and only on the house wall for fire protection  :?:  :?:
If I sell the roadster after I get it done im planning eithe an addition on my garage or even a seprate structure out back like 24x32x12.. Id be with out a car but I can sure do enuff work in a building like that to fund another one..
dave

J Man

I saw an ad the other day for a place that makes foam panels. I have not had the chance to look them up yet. I want to see what the R value is. I coud ise the 2" panel with the 3.5" roll insulation. Then I would put the 6 mil plastic and the OSB on top of that.

J Man

http://www.waynesbuildingsupply.com/index.html

this is threir we bite. Is it the dame place that you were talking about?

Also if you were to take something with an R value of 8 and another product with a value if 12, does that really make it a R20? does piggy backing different materials work like that?

enjenjo

QuoteI went to a place near the ohio michigan border that sells 1 inch 4x8 foam sheets pretty cheap. This has been like 10 years ago but they are still there.

Could it have been H and H Insulation on M52 just south of Adrian?
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

1FATGMC

Quote from: "J Man"........................
Thats what I plan to do. My walls are 5.5" deep and the bats I found at the local places are 6.5" thick. so there will be a little more than there is room for. It is R19. The 6 mil plastic is $75 for a 10x100 ft roll. doing this will be good enough to get me through winter. ......................

A 2 X 6 stud if you used them for a stick wall is only 5 1/2 inches wide anyway, so the glass you are looking at would work fine.  Do like you are talking about with the stud wall, fiberglass, and then the plastic and you would be fine until you covered the wall with sheet rock or whatever.

Like I said since they are non-structural just use 2 X 4's and space the wall out from the existing exterior wall how ever far you want to.

c ya,

Sum

river1

Quote from: "1FATGMC"

Like I said since they are non-structural just use 2 X 4's and space the wall out from the existing exterior wall how ever far you want to.

c ya,

Sum

an added bonus, if you did it like that is you'd pick up some noise supression since there would be no direct path for the vibrations to follow.

later jim
Most people have a higher than average number of legs.

J Man

Quote from: "J Man"this is threir we bite. Is it the dame place that you were talking about?

Boy does my typing suck!!!!

Bib_Overalls

My shop has 1" thick "Ag Board" insulation.  This material is very light and has a white painted aluminum foil side that is very effective at reflecting light.  But it is not very strong and can not take much abuse.  OK exposed as a ceiling.  But it really needs to be protected (covered) when used on walls.  Something I did not do at the time I put the building up, and way too difficult now because the place is full of junk!

Most of the talk here has been about walls.  But heat rises.  And simply insulating the walls will not do much with respect to keeping heat in the structure.  Ya need to do ceilings and walls at the same time to get an effective result.
An Old California Rodder
Hiding Out In The Ozarks

Dave

Quote from: "enjenjo"
QuoteI went to a place near the ohio michigan border that sells 1 inch 4x8 foam sheets pretty cheap. This has been like 10 years ago but they are still there.

Could it have been H and H Insulation on M52 just south of Adrian?

Im sure that was it Frank.. They are the only one in Adrian.. I remember his daughter helped us load the stuff and she was Hot  :lol:  :lol:
Dave

1FATGMC

Quote from: "Bib_Overalls"Most of the talk here has been about walls.  But heat rises.  And simply insulating the walls will not do much with respect to keeping heat in the structure.  Ya need to do ceilings and walls at the same time to get an effective result.

Yep, that is what I said in my first post.  If you don't do the ceiling just forget it.  And that doesn't mean you put in a ceiling, it has to be insulated better than the walls.  My shop is 1600 sq. ft with a solar green house attached and I had to supply heat to it less than 10 days last winter other than the solar to keep it above 60 and it was not a warm winter here with most nights in the low teens or high single digits,

You can read how I built it and the house here:

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/newhouse/house-index.html


   



 

c ya,

Sum

KustomLincolnLady

cool post, your both members of team smart correct  :lol:

Jason, looks like you found the perfect place, from what you told me you were looking for!!

I can see it full in no time lol, surprised your wife wasn't scared at that thought,  :P

Debb

EMSjunkie

Quote from: "KustomLincolnLady"cool post, your both members of team smart correct  :lol:



Debb

Don't be a hater :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

Vance
"I don\'t know what your problem is, but I bet its hard to pronounce"

1934 Ford 3 Window
Member, Rural Rodders
Member, National Sarcasm Society  "Like we need your support"
*****Co-Founder  Team Smart*****

J Man

Quote from: "KustomLincolnLady"cool post, your both members of team smart correct  :lol:

Jason, looks like you found the perfect place, from what you told me you were looking for!!

I can see it full in no time lol, surprised your wife wasn't scared at that thought,  :P

Debb

With that big barn I actually have too much room but I am sure I will fill it up one day. :) As far as my wife, she just wants me to get something done.