some progress on my shop

Started by J Man, September 12, 2007, 08:39:48 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

J Man

I recently had the concrete poured in my building that I am going to use as a shop. It is 30x60. I now need to get the power run to it and start insulating it. I had a quote for the spray in foam but I do not have the $10k laying around to fo that. I have been thinking if using that lizard skin stuff to spra on the walls for a moisture barrier than using the fiberglass rolls. I plan to use OSB for my walls.

As far as shop lights I want to run some round lights that will work in cold weather, anyone have any suggestions? I will not be able to get heat in the building till next year.

phat rat

Was this one of those "There's a house with the garage?" deals?  :lol:
Some days it\'s not worth chewing through the restraints.

enjenjo

You really don't need a vapor barrier on the outside of the insulation, believe it or not, most vapor will be coming from the inside, particularly because metal siding is vapor proof. So install your insulation, and use Visqueen as a vapor barrier on the inside before sheeting it with OSB.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

phat rat

Why OSB instead of drywall? Wall board is less expensive.  I assume you're thinking of this because of the possibilty of putting a hole in the wallboard. When I did mine I used OSB on the bottom 4 ft and wallboard the rest of the way.
Some days it\'s not worth chewing through the restraints.

Woody2B

Do a search for "Supertherm".  I was watching Bob Villa over the weekend and they were spraying this on the outside of a home made from discarded steel shipping containers.  It appears to be the same thing as Lizard Skin, ceramic microspheres suspended in a urethane, only white.  R19 in the thickness of a credit card and waterproof.  I didn't dig long enough to find a price...probably only $30 bucks a gallon instead of $180 for two!!! :lol: I will think about using on my car when I get to that point.

tomslik

The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But it\'s still on my list

Bib_Overalls

That is going to be a nice work space someday.

I recently finished off the inside walls of a friend's pole building with plywood nailed directly to the purlins.  Every sheet that abutted a pole had to be scribed and cut to fit.  Based on that experience, I recommend you build a standard stub wall between the posts, insulste with bats, and finish off with drywall.

To meet code, OSB must be covered with a noncombustable material like drywall or sheet metal.

I don't think your widely spaced roof trusses will support a drywall ceiling.  I'd consider using white painted barn metal.  It has good span characteristics,  does not weigh very much, and will reflect light better than anything I know of, including white painted drywall. Even so, you are going to need some additional framing up top.

There are a lot of good shop ideas here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/
An Old California Rodder
Hiding Out In The Ozarks

J Man

Phat rat

It was one of those, there is a house, chicken coupe, pole building and metal sided barn with the old barn. The 30x60 is the smallest of the 3 big buildings. There is an old barn that was mwtal sided some time ago, it will be used for a garage and storage. There is an old barn built in the 1880's as well. It is HUGE but needs a lot of work. I also have a chicken coupe that is about the size of a 3 car garage. It needs a lot of work as well. Yea there is a house there as well. I will see what pictures I have of the other buildings.

As far as the OSB, although it is more expensive it will be stronger. I want to hang things on the wall the keep them off the floor. It will give the the chance to put heavier thing on shelves.

Enjenjo

Thanks for the info. I have seen how they wrap the outside of a house before putting the siding on so I figured the moisture would be coming from the outside in. That will avtually save me some money then. What is better, the fiberglass or the foam board? I think the Johns Manville plant here in town sells the stuff that they can't sell in the stores.


Tomslik

They don't inspect things around here unless it is new constructione. The building has been there since the '60's so they will not ne too concerned with what I am doing to it.

Bib Overalls

I have not really put any thought into the ceiling yet. I will prob. wait till next year to deal with that.

phat rat

Boy the perfect place to store all kinds of things. How many acres with it? I know your figuring on hanging things, but what about a mezzanine down one wall with shelves and cabinets above and below?
Some days it\'s not worth chewing through the restraints.

J Man

Quote from: "phat rat"Boy the perfect place to store all kinds of things. How many acres with it? I know your figuring on hanging things, but what about a mezzanine down one wall with shelves and cabinets above and below?

I was thinking of that at first, then I realized that with all the other space in the other buildings that it really wasn't needed. As far as land, there is just under 3 acres. We are totaly surrounded by corn.

river1

Quote from: "J Man"
Quote from: "phat rat"Boy the perfect place to store all kinds of things. How many acres with it? I know your figuring on hanging things, but what about a mezzanine down one wall with shelves and cabinets above and below?

I was thinking of that at first, then I realized that with all the other space in the other buildings that it really wasn't needed. As far as land, there is just under 3 acres. We are totaly surrounded by corn.

picture me ENVIOUS i'd love to have that kind of space. is the corn yours? i'll also second Bib_Overalls recommendation for the garage journal.

later jim
Most people have a higher than average number of legs.

tomslik

i was thinking more in the way of, will my insurance cover me with OSB.....
The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But it\'s still on my list

dragrcr50

i had my 30x40 sprayed with foam and it has never been below 45 in three yras inside without heat.. in oklahoma of course but it has been 0 to 30 degrees some times.  will not let water freeze on the floor in a dish all winter. i sprayed it white with barn paint and it is the ceiling . kinda looks like clouds haha..
ownerWoodard racing and hot rod shop in mustang oklahoma. My  specialty is gassers &  nostalgia race cars , love the salt,

brti

I am building a 30X60 shop as well, ,,,,,,, :lol:  Stud your walls and insulate conventionally with 6ml vapour barrier would be best. OR you could get insulation kits from metal building dealers,, OSB is an engineered product so it is good for what you want no probs. Some guys put blocking on edge in the walls horizontally about 5' level with a 2x6 or 8 then screw on dry wall,,, the wide blocking is to nail to when you want to hang things,,,,, may be try flourecent lights along the walls AND over head,, get cold weather balasts in them though. Also try to get some sort of ventilation in your attic area so your roof won't sweat and rain every time you want to work inside it. Vapour barrier under you slab would also stop alot of moisture. You could also strap your roof trusses with 2x4 and screw a ceilng on easily WITH vapour barrier but ventilate that attic area.

Good luck,,,,,,,,, looks like a great building to me. :roll:
what\'s that noise,,,,,, never mind I\'ll check it later

J Man

Right now due to money issues and time I am going to only do the lower 8 ft and in the spring or after the house in PA sells I will finish it. I will probibly get an electric furnace. There is a place in Defiance that has good deals on them. I plan to get into solar annd wind power later down the line so I will reduce my dependancy on the electric company. For lighting I am looking at the round style lights like what they use at Lowes to hang from the ceiling. I figure they will produce a lot of light and the bulbs will be easier to change then a long tube. More of a safety issue for me. Then I can add the regular shop lights as needed around the building as needed. I have 2 sets of the sliding barn doors. I still need to seal up one set to keep air out. They will still be there incase I ever decide to add on, they will be the opening to the other building.  The other set I am going to look iinto getting a roll up door that will hopefully be more air tight and secure.