still getting temp creep, now what?

Started by EMSjunkie, July 16, 2007, 01:01:52 PM

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Bruce Dorsi

Quote from: "sirstude"Also, remember, too retarted on the timing will make them run hot too.


I agree with Doug, but I spell it retarded.  :roll:    :lol:


Are you running vacuum advance, Vance?   .....If not, you may not be getting enough advance under light load conditions.


If you are using vacuum advance, is it hooked to manifold vacuum?
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If being smart means knowing what I am dumb at,  I must be a genius!

EMSjunkie

Quote from: "Bruce Dorsi"
Quote from: "sirstude"Also, remember, too retarted on the timing will make them run hot too.


I agree with Doug, but I spell it retarded.  :roll:    :lol:


Are you running vacuum advance, Vance?   .....If not, you may not be getting enough advance under light load conditions.


If you are using vacuum advance, is it hooked to manifold vacuum?

Yes, vacuum advance, hooked to manifold vacuum.
I read Steve Jacks post about that. :D

it seemed to run a little stronger with the new jets and the timing retarded.
I didn't get the light out and check, just did it by ear :oops:
maybe if I get home a little earlier tonight, I'll stick a light on it and check the "numbers"
I did replace the dizzy awhile back, did some recurving with the springs, may need to play with that some more too :?  but it had temp creep with the old dizzy.


I'll keep y'all posted, thanks for all the help :)

Vance
"I don\'t know what your problem is, but I bet its hard to pronounce"

1934 Ford 3 Window
Member, Rural Rodders
Member, National Sarcasm Society  "Like we need your support"
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UGLY OLDS

I wonder if that's why Walker changed them....I too have an "early" Walker shroud to be used on my Model A...The newer one's all have little rubber flaps on them in the corners covering cut out openings......HMMMMM :?:  :?:  :idea:
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****

EMSjunkie

Interesting :idea:

I'm thinkin' about getting the hole-saw out and making some
"vents" in my shroud.

it is actually designed for a 32, but its the closest thing I could find, measurement wise, to fit my radiator.

keep the idears coming boys :-o


Vance
"I don\'t know what your problem is, but I bet its hard to pronounce"

1934 Ford 3 Window
Member, Rural Rodders
Member, National Sarcasm Society  "Like we need your support"
*****Co-Founder  Team Smart*****

t-vicky

I would say to make flaps like I did. That way your fans not sucking back thur the holes at standing still idle.

brti

Could your e-fan possibly be "stalling" at highway speeds because of air flow greater than what it can handle?
      Had the same problem with my '57 Willys PU with SB in it. Put a good shroud on the rad and that cured it, also put in a 160 Therm.
what\'s that noise,,,,,, never mind I\'ll check it later

UGLY OLDS

Quote from: "t-vicky"I would say to make flaps like I did. That way your fans not sucking back thur the holes at standing still idle.

Eggzackly....we "played" with a late model earlier tonight that had the rubber "flapper" doors covering the vent holes in the shroud...At idle,when the fan turns on,the little "flappers" get sucked against the back of the shroud to cover the holes & force the air to be sucked through the radiator core... :idea:  what will they think of next :?:  :?:  :shock:  :shock:
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****

EMSjunkie

Quote from: "t-vicky"I would say to make flaps like I did. That way your fans not sucking back thur the holes at standing still idle.

thats prolly what I'll do.  that shroud stuff is a b#@*h to cut with a high-speed body saw :shock:
like ta never got the hole cut fer the fan :x   stuff kept melting back together right behind the blade :roll:

Vance
"I don\'t know what your problem is, but I bet its hard to pronounce"

1934 Ford 3 Window
Member, Rural Rodders
Member, National Sarcasm Society  "Like we need your support"
*****Co-Founder  Team Smart*****

EMSjunkie

Quote from: "brti"Could your e-fan possibly be "stalling" at highway speeds because of air flow greater than what it can handle?
      Had the same problem with my '57 Willys PU with SB in it. Put a good shroud on the rad and that cured it, also put in a 160 Therm.

I was under the impression that there should be enough air flow that the elect. fan should not come on at highway speeds  :?

or have I been mis-informed :?:

Vance
"I don\'t know what your problem is, but I bet its hard to pronounce"

1934 Ford 3 Window
Member, Rural Rodders
Member, National Sarcasm Society  "Like we need your support"
*****Co-Founder  Team Smart*****

Dave

Quote from: "EMSjunkie"
Quote from: "brti"Could your e-fan possibly be "stalling" at highway speeds because of air flow greater than what it can handle?
      Had the same problem with my '57 Willys PU with SB in it. Put a good shroud on the rad and that cured it, also put in a 160 Therm.

I was under the impression that there should be enough air flow that the elect. fan should not come on at highway speeds  :?

or have I been mis-informed :?:

Vance

Correct my lil buddy.. you shouldnt need a fan at hiway speeds. Thats why im still thinnin fuel mixture or timing.. Think about how a clutch fan works.. As far as im concerned a shroud is for city driving also. proper flow thru the radidiator should be maximum air at hiway speeds and how can that not be. Now another question The motor came out of the sprinter right ? Im assuming its bored? compression? did they or you hot tank it and get it good and clean? Its not bored too much is it? Lot of stuff can make and engine run hot..  At hiway speeds a lean condition and a big over bore will make heat.. Ya see im not stupid .. I just sometimes wait too long to say what i really wanna say....
Dave :wink:
ps: cell phone is on

Ed ke6bnl

Quote from: "jusjunk"
Quote from: "EMSjunkie"
Quote from: "brti"Could your e-fan possibly be "stalling" at highway speeds because of air flow greater than what it can handle?
      Had the same problem with my '57 Willys PU with SB in it. Put a good shroud on the rad and that cured it, also put in a 160 Therm.

I was under the impression that there should be enough air flow that the elect. fan should not come on at highway speeds  :?

or have I been mis-informed :?:

Vance

Correct my lil buddy.. you shouldnt need a fan at hiway speeds. Thats why im still thinnin fuel mixture or timing.. Think about how a clutch fan works.. As far as im concerned a shroud is for city driving also. proper flow thru the radidiator should be maximum air at hiway speeds and how can that not be. Now another question The motor came out of the sprinter right ? Im assuming its bored? compression? did they or you hot tank it and get it good and clean? Its not bored too much is it? Lot of stuff can make and engine run hot..  At hiway speeds a lean condition and a big over bore will make heat.. Ya see im not stupid .. I just sometimes wait too long to say what i really wanna say....
Dave :wink:
ps: cell phone is on

my electric fan shroud has the rubber flapper to help let the air move through at highway speeds without the fan and shroud can restrict.
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brti

Quote from: "brti"Could your e-fan possibly be "stalling" at highway speeds because of air flow greater than what it can handle?
      Had the same problem with my '57 Willys PU with SB in it. Put a good shroud on the rad and that cured it, also put in a 160 Therm.


You are right it shouldn't but,,,,,,,,,,,, Talked it up with some buds and two had same experience with heat at highway speeds,,,,,,,, both had head gasket problems.
what\'s that noise,,,,,, never mind I\'ll check it later

UGLY OLDS

Vance....Is this a recent development or has it always been there??  I,m REALLY  gonna put the thinking cap on pretty soon... :?  :?  :?
( Dave's right...This is LOTS more fun than " What's traditional & what's not " .... :lol:  :lol: )
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****

EMSjunkie

OK, here's the scoop.

Small block chevy  bored .030 over
flat top 4 valve relief pistons
compression is prolly about 9:1 but thats a S.W.A.G.
was hot tanked, bored, honed by a local machine shop.
engine had about 6-7 races on it before the "big accident".
461 casting heads  1.94 / 1.50 valves no major milling. not over .010
not a real radical cam  272 duration  490 lift
normally aspirated 625 demon carb 70's in the primaries 76 secondaries
Power-Plus "Crosswind" intake (edelbrock air-gap copy) chrome, of course
GM HEI dist. (I did re-spring it)
can't remember the timing specs, around 10* static, 32* with the vac. hooked up, at idle
Speedway uncoated "block hugger" headers
stock GM water pump, short type, stock pulley, chrome too.
100 amp alt. stock pully. chrome
crank pully is slightly smaller than stock diameter, aluminum, (needs to be chrome)
stainless steel upper, lower, and heater hoses, yes, chrome.
Walker Z-series radiator with a/c condenser.
Spal 16" curved blade fan puller mounted
Walker full shroud.
trans cooler is seperate from radiator.
I have a flame pattern cut out in the hood side panels, backed by perforated steel.
14" K-N open element air filter.
what else can I tell ya......................... :?

180* Stant thermostat.
Billet alum t-stat housing.
Speedway rad cap 12# yup, chrome
Centec adjustable fan controller, I can kick it on or off at any temp I want.
it has only kicked out fluid once or twice when I stopped for gas. ambient temp was about 95* temp guage showed about 210*. but that was while driving back from Dallas last year in July.
the problem has always been there, no matter what I have done it still seems to persist, and its pizzin' me off, 'cuz I can't figger it out :x

I gotta go rest my Carpal Tunnels now :shock:

thanks for the help guys, I do appreciate it. 8)
you guys are the best. :D

Vance
"I don\'t know what your problem is, but I bet its hard to pronounce"

1934 Ford 3 Window
Member, Rural Rodders
Member, National Sarcasm Society  "Like we need your support"
*****Co-Founder  Team Smart*****

enjenjo

Can Timing? I've seen this happen with a worn timing chain.
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