Re: 5-W Back Glass -- Deuce Gurus? What's Missin' Here?

[RottenRodney]

I need to pick the brain of someone who's been there 'N' done that.  I'm screwin' together a Deuce 5-Windo with a roll-up/down back glass and I suspect that I'm missin' a hunk of metal or wood which would secure the regulator.  Here's what I do have:



The body now has all new wood installed, but the old stuff'll work for visual purposes.  What bolts or screws in between the verticals to hold the regulator? Is it metal or is it wood?  Eye've looked at some exposed 3-windos, (they're wood) but it's an entirely different animal.  Does anybody have access to an exposed 5-Windo?  If I could get a pitcher or a measurement or two, it might save me some trial and error.

Here's one more question: This car came to me in pieces.  I have one (right door) window regulator and two (left door) window regulators, so at first I was assuming that the back glass uses the extra left.  However, that would put the handle on the driver's side of the car which wouldn't make sense.  It seems like it'd be in easier reach of the driver if it were on the passenger side.  Who knows this stuff for sure?  

Thanks, Rotten

[348tripower]

In a 34 there is a wood block that the regulator is screwed to.  I bet it is similar, but I don't have any pictures to help you out.
Don

[47 ragtop]

The regulator pictured is for a drivers side  door. The rear window regulator has 1 arm not 2. You are correct that the handle shaft is on the passenger side for easier access for the driver. The missing piece is wood  and  the entire wooden assembly used to be availible in repo. I have not owned a 32 or 34 in over 20 years so I am no help on the dimensions or a pattern.

[Rich Guzman]

Looks like your missin a few parts..you have the header and the chanels (to which the felt is attached) and you have part of the box. However you are missing most of the lower box and "moisture " catcher as well as the drain spout, down tube and the rear package shelf... I'll try to attach a pic so you can see. None of it is particularly complicated, a little sheet metal, a hammer and a dollyand you'll be in buisness  

[RottenRodney]

Whoa!  Thanks, you guys are very helpful.  While flippin' through a catalog yesterday, Eye saw a repro offering for the rear regulator.  I went on and ordered that up -- it'll be here today.  Now since it'll have only one arm, I'm thinkin' the lower track thingy will be different as well.  We're gainin' anyway.

Ya know, I hadn't given any consideration to the need for drain tubes.  Yow!  Thanks for wakin' me up.

I'm tryin' hard to contact Chuck and Judy Cubel (who I bought the $846.00 wood kit from) but so far they're makin' me work for it.  Maybe they can help with the missin' splinters or at least the location for the hole.  Looks like it's just a chunk of wood. I ain't no woodsmith, but  I can make the metal stuff.  Seein' it helps a lot.  

Thanks for the visual aids.  Yawl's a big help...  RR

[model a vette]

You will require more than just drain tubes to duplicate the factory setup. There is a drain pan which mounts behind the wood piece that the regulator bolts to. In cross section the pan looks like a giant "J" with the longer part of the J mounting to the back of the regulator board. They are available for '34s for sure and probably for '32s as well. They are designed to catch all the water that gets between the outer body and the glass.

[Rich Guzman]

The rear window drain pan is indeed available , but is's kinda pricey at almost 80 bucks Try Classic Auto Parts, part number V41-53000-696 1932 5w /rear drain pan  give them a call at 1-800-654-3247 ...or like I said you could make it yourself...Thir catalouge is avaialbe on line ad you can get areally good feel for what it's supposed to look like  

[RottenRodney]

Thanks again, you guys.  Sorry for the delay.  I'll flip through my Classic Auto Parts catalog and see what Eye can see.  Eye looked in there for a repro package tray the other day so it's still open on my messy desk.  Yeah, I know I could make the package tray, but if there's one out there to be had, I'd consider it both ways.  

Have a nice holidaze!  RR

[model a vette]

Brookville has the 32 drain pan for $63.

[RottenRodney]

Brookville has the 32 drain pan for $63.

Just placed the order.  Thank you much...

[RottenRodney]

Sorry, but I'm back with yet more confusion.  I ordered up the 'moisture catcher' from Brookville.  It's here and in what I think is its place.  I had to shave the wood a bit or two in order to get it to slip over.  If I go all the way up with it, the drain tube will be plugged by the wood.  No biggie, I can do something about that.  I have the correct (one armed) regulator now, but from the looks of things, the 'moisture catcher' isn't deep enough to allow the window to come all the way down.  Do they only go down about half way anyway?  

Rag?  Rich?  You guys know this stuff.  Would you look over the following pitcher and let me know what yawl think?  



I'm still clueless as to how the missin' wood is supposed to attach.  Do you guys know if it's supposed to fit flush between the verticals or should it overlap?  Some of this just doesn't look right yet.  The stuff that's supposed to be easy is the stuff that beats me up the most.

Since I haven't posted a progress report lately, here's a recent pitcher:



"It's ALIVE!"  Fun to drive too...     Thanks again...  RR

 

Thanks...  RR

[rumrumm]

Nice looking ride there, RR. A very cool, old-timey look.

[model a vette]

There is a piece of wood that mounts above the trough toward the front of the car. The window mechanism mounts to that piece of wood. The missing piece mounts to the top edge of the "catcher" and bolts to the vertical pieces you already have in place.
The window channels mount on the inner edge of the vertical pieces.
It looks like you have the "moisture catcher" mounted correctly.
You should paint or coat the wood before you seal the window in place. Since water will puddle in the catcher you might want to let the metal develop surface rust and then paint it with POR 15.

[RottenRodney]

Thanks.  We're gradually gittin' somewhere, I think.  One thing I did wrong (last pitcher) was assume that the vertical wood should slip inside the drain-box (I still like moisture-catcher) so the shave I put on the wood was unnecessary.  It's now clamped in place lower which leaves the drain-tube functional and allows more glass travel.  Duh...  Your description of the missin' wood makes sense, now I get what the folded edge on the box is for.  I do kinda think I ended up with the wrong regulator though:



The handle needs to end up as high as possible on the passenger side.  The Vintique box says: 1928/31 Fordor Sedan L/H, which must be the the closest approximate available.  The box appeared to have been opened before.  Does this look like the wrong side to yawl?  It looks as though it could swing both ways if I drill out one rivet, flop the arm over, re-rivet that, and reverse the spring.  Maybe I could avoid the exchange nuscance and avoid the argument over a 20% re-stocking fee, etc.

Still open for suggestions.  Yawl's help is greatly appreciated...  RR

[Dave]

The info I have is 28to 32 ford fordor right hand and 30 to 36 rear roll down..  Hows it mount what if you turn it upside down :?:
Dave