Re: Chassis / frame height minimum

[C9]

I am cyphering on my Morris Minor for a frame build.  Front suspension is the subject at this post

What would be frame height from ground to the bottom of the frame minimum be?

I am looking at 6 - 7 inches at ride height for a real driver car.  Probably the same amount of kick up in the front to a mustang II  crossmember with OE spindles ( Not dropped spindles)



Would the question be - What is sufficient clearance for engine/transmission components?
Seems like it ought to be since frames sit a little higher.

My 32's low point is 6" off the ground at the left collector and the engine & trans pan are the same height and the car has never drug.
I posted 5 1/2" off the ground for the collector a few days back on the HAMB., but that was the right collector.
The 32 is backed in which is not the usual way and the right collector is difficult to get to.

If you need, I can give you the front horn height and distance from front axle.

[Glen]

Were you asking my opinion?

[Phil1934]

You can get by with less.  A short wheelbase is not as likely to high center and a smaller car needs to be lower.  Figure speed bumps at 4" and 1/2" of suspension travel.  Also find your tires first so you get a size and ride height that center in the wheel well.  You can put a 165/65-13 on a MII, about 21" tall.   Lastly don't assume the frame will be the lowest point unless you plan on a new floor board anyways as trans clearance will dictate engine height with a stock floor.  You'll end up with about 1-1/2* tilt on the engine/trans.  I put a M II under a Model Y and ended up reverse Z'ing the frame 2" for 4-1/2" ground clearance with the oil pan 4" below the frame as I did not want the blower more than 2" through the hood with a 6-1/2" windshield.

[Phil1934]

A couple of other points.  Forget 13" wheels if you go to Granada rotors.  Also I did not mind dropping the engine as the under floor master cylinder and side pipe also hung down 4".  If you go with under the floor pedals you may not have room for a driver side exhaust with a narrow car, so hanging pedal may be better.

[Phil1934]

I have a couple more points.  I've got an 11" narrowed R&P and it is almost center steer.  With a 15% engine setback the shaft just clears the balancer.  If you have engine forward you may want to cross steer.  Also check if the engine will fit between the frame rails.  Mine is tight against the passenger side with the engine lowered as much as possible before hitting.

[rooster]

Second question:  Is it 5/8 inch per side when going to granada rotors from the OE 9 inch mustang II rotors that the track width increases??[/quote]

Tony, was 5/8" per side the final answer, I know mine are wider with the G rotors, I would like to know also, now my wheels rub the side of the fenders!

[GPster]

Rooster's reply reminded me of your question. I'd think I'd work backwards. Why don't you figure the diameter of the tires you want to run and half it to get your axel height. Take your MustangII crossmember and block it up so that the spindle stubs are at that height  with the bottom "A" frames (?) paralell to the ground. See what the dimension is between the center of the front crossmember and the ground is. I'd do the same thing at the back end and come up with the space between the pumpkin and the floor. The frame between the axel needs to be maybe a little higher than the ends. Remember a speed-bump lifts the front end and rear end up because of the tires. The only thin that's going to lift the centerof the frame is the oil pan, transmission pan, exhaust collecters, center crossmember,etc..  GPster

[GPster]

That's my claim to humanity, to tell somebody something they already know. GPster