BEAR CLAWS AND SHAVED HANDLES

[stude55]

WORKING ON PUTTING IN BEAR CLAWS AND SHAVED HANDLES, INTO 54 STUDEBAKER PICKUP. HAS ANYONE SEEN OR KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT MAYBE PUTTING THE LATCHES ON THE BODY AND THE STRIKERS ON THE DOOR? I THINK IT WILL WORK WITH A REMOTE CABLE HANDLE IN THE CENTER CONSOLE. ANY INFO WOULD BE GREAT THANKS.

[Fat Cat]

WORKING ON PUTTING IN BEAR CLAWS AND SHAVED HANDLES, INTO 54 STUDEBAKER PICKUP. HAS ANYONE SEEN OR KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT MAYBE PUTTING THE LATCHES ON THE BODY AND THE STRIKERS ON THE DOOR? I THINK IT WILL WORK WITH A REMOTE CABLE HANDLE IN THE CENTER CONSOLE. ANY INFO WOULD BE GREAT THANKS.

Welcome to the RRT. Enjenjo has done exactly what you are describing. I am sure he will be along any time to fill you in on how he did it.

[enjenjo]

I did a 47 Chevy pickup that way, it works great.

I mounted the strikers on the door, with a 1/4" plate plug welded to the door back, and filled all the other holes. I then mounted the latch in the door jamb. I put manual inside handles in the seat riser, outside of the seats, just where your hand falls when you straighten your arm. I used some small inside door handles from a Nissan pickup. There is also a screw motor mounted down there to open the doors from the outside, remotely. Also, there is a cable from the latch that runs through the floor, that will manually open the door from the outside if the battery is dead, since the battery is under the floor. The cables I used were bicycle brake cables.

It also has power windows with the controls mounted on the center console, so there is nothing on the inside door panel except the arm rest.

I can take some pictures if you want.

[stude55]

PICS WOULD BE GREAT. THAT IS WHAT I'M HOPEING FOR, KEEPING THE MOVING PARTS IN THE CAB AND NOT THE DOOR.                                                                                                                                                                                        

I did a 47 Chevy pickup that way, it works great.

I mounted the strikers on the door, with a 1/4" plate plug welded to the door back, and filled all the other holes. I then mounted the latch in the door jamb. I put manual inside handles in the seat riser, outside of the seats, just where your hand falls when you straighten your arm. I used some small inside door handles from a Nissan pickup. There is also a screw motor mounted down there to open the doors from the outside, remotely. Also, there is a cable from the latch that runs through the floor, that will manually open the door from the outside if the battery is dead, since the battery is under the floor. The cables I used were bicycle brake cables.

It also has power windows with the controls mounted on the center console, so there is nothing on the inside door panel except the arm rest.

I can take some pictures if you want.

[freddrew]

What power window unit did you use.  Are you happy with it and were there any installation problems?
Fred

[enjenjo]

What power window unit did you use.  Are you happy with it and were there any installation problems?
Fred

NURelics is the brand. Bolted right in the original holes, and they work fine.

[enjenjo]

Here are some pictures of the bear claws. Every thing is painted, but you can get an idea.

[stude55]

looks really clean, you do nice work. Are those standard 1/4 inch rivits holding the latch? If so how well do they hold up?

[Fat Cat]

looks really clean, you do nice work. Are those standard 1/4 inch rivits holding the latch? If so how well do they hold up?

They are 1/4" stainless button head allen bolts.

[stude55]

I DIDN'T THINK YOU WOULD HOLD A LATCH WITH A RIVIT. THANKS