Aluminum vs. Copper Radiator Dilema

Started by Mr348, January 15, 2007, 07:49:23 PM

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Mr348

As I have said before I am building a 32' 3-window with a blown small block. It stime for the radiator purchase and I need advise. I used a walker in a deuce roadster with great success. I used a PRC aluminum radiator in my 34' coupe and I never liked how fast it heated up and it always seemed to run hotter than I wanted it to. Never overheated but I don't like running at 210. It had the same cooling components fan on both radiators so I know that air flow was the same. So my question is to all that have built many more rods than I have what is the best radiator make and material to use? I am ready to order either a walker of a Griffin. Help me out guys and gals.
~Jeff

Deuce

I prefer the Walker ...
I hate the aluminum " LOOK " behind the grille ... on a 32 ...  :)
When it was time to buy one for my 32 3W project ... I never considered anything else

JUST ME ...
RETIRED.....no phone, no work and No money  :?

btrc

I would not buy a griffen as they are not repairable.  They bond the tanks to the core somehow and if you somehow damage the tank they say you can't weld up a crack.  I had a griffen in my '37 and it fell off the jack when I was jacking it up one day during construction.  The lower tank got bent and I couldn't cut out a chunk to fix it.  
 Anyone want to buy a griffen radiator for a '37 Ford?  Dented on the bottom but I did have it pressure checked and it doesn't leak.

Bob
Bob

papastoyss

I've never used anything but a Walker Z series in cars I've built. No problems except paying for them. I have friends who used various brands of aluminum radiators , some do ok, some run hot all the time.
grandchildren are your reward for not killing your teenagers!

phat rat

I have an aluminum radiator in the cpe.  Had it made locally by the radiator guy I've use exclusively for almost 30 yrs. I originally had a normal construction 5 core in it. It now has a 2 core, the advantage is larger tubes, mine is also a triple pass. I've been very happy with this radiator, have never had any problem cooling
Some days it\'s not worth chewing through the restraints.

alchevy

I had an aluminum radiator in my '40 and it did fine until it started leaking and then I had to find somewhere that would fix it at my expense because it was out of warranty. I swapped it out for a Walker and could not be happier. Walker has a 5 year warranty on theirs.
I thought at first that the new one was not cooling as good as the aluminum, then we found that the vacuum advance was not working. Swapped it out and everythings cool!
A street rod is a vehicle made before 1949 that is modified with modern stuff: bigger motors; newer trans; updated suspension, front & rear; a/c.
Following is a street rod plus definition: No known definition because it changes.

www.astreetrodder.com

slocrow

Is aluminum used because it's a better choice for heat dispersion or weight or both? I thought that maybe brass & copper did a better job of cooling. That doesn't seem correct to me but I heard it somewhere. Any thoughts? .......Frank
Tell the National Guard to mind the grocery store...

enjenjo

Well this gets complicated. Copper/Brass conducts heat better than aluminum. And Aluminum is lighter than copper/brass. But with the tube designs that are being used in radiators today, an aluminum radiator can be more efficient for the same face area, and thickness. Aluminum radiators also are generally stronger, but are harder to repair.

Most copper brass hot rod radiators use 3/8" or 1/2" tubes, most aluminum radiators use 3/4" or 1" tubes, so a single 1" tube aluminum radiator will actually flow a bit more that two 1/2" tubes in a copper/brass radiator.

The thing to look for in an aluminum radiator is the method of construction. Most OE cores are sealed with epoxy, and are for the most part not repairable. Most aluminum hot rod radiators are brazed core construction, and can be repaired, but there are exceptions. Griffin makes them both ways, so ask.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

1FATGMC

Quote from: "slocrow"Is aluminum used because it's a better choice for heat dispersion or weight or both? I thought that maybe brass & copper did a better job of cooling. That doesn't seem correct to me but I heard it somewhere. Any thoughts? .......Frank

I think I have heard the same thing Frank  8) .  I have a feeling that the aluminum is more to lower the weight off the front of a drag car and then they just got popular.

Saying that there might not be a big difference with either and other things like a good shroud, fan, ignition, etc. could play a bigger roll.

I have gone through about 3 radiators on my truck just due to road damage that finally got too bad.  I have used and keep the original 2 row I got from the Camaro I stripped.  It always goes back in if I have a problem with whatever is in there. I have had two 4 rows built for under $200 as they are stock sized camaro and they don't really seem to cool any better than the 2 row.  Like Jack mentioned sometimes it isn't how many rows, but how restrictive they are to moving air through them.  I've always wanted to try a 3 row for the reasons Jack mentioned.

c ya,

Sum

Dave

Ok my nickle.. When I bought my roller from SRBY Michael it came with a griffin. All my other cars had walkers. 2nd summer i had a leak in the griffin. Michael replaced it . (i was 2 weeks from out of warranty)  :lol:  The new one has been fine and ive never seen a difference from the aluminum to a copper/ brass radiator but.. If i was gonna buy one (my roadster has aluminum also brand unknown) I think id buy a walker. Why... they are a lot easier to repair.
Bottom line thats it. We still have radiator repair shops and they can fix copper/ brass .. I know. Did i tell ya bout the time i was gonna mount the over flow tank on the 34 then take the wife for a ride :wink:  :?:  Opps..
Dave
ps: no ride either

40_Tudor

I have an aluminum PRC radiator in my 40. It runs a little too cool, about 170 but that could be the gauge reading. I've only had it running for a few months so I don't know how it will do in July but the electric fan only kicks on after extended idling and then only stays on a minute.
Most of the buys I know with street rods have aluminum.

Carnut

Quote from: "40_Tudor"I have an aluminum PRC radiator in my 40. It runs a little too cool, about 170 but that could be the gauge reading. I've only had it running for a few months so I don't know how it will do in July but the electric fan only kicks on after extended idling and then only stays on a minute.
Most of the buys I know with street rods have aluminum.

I'd sure like to tryout an aluminum radiator, would you want to loan me yours so I can see how it works?

donsrods

I ran a Brassworks '32  radiator for years in my '27, and even though it was chopped  8 and 1/2 inches, it kept the 302 cool on the hottest days here in Florida.

But I had a talk with PRC at Daytona a few years back, and both my Son and I have now switched to their aluminum radiators.  Haven't fired the cars yet, so we will have to see.  However, I am running an aluminum radiator in my 2.0 powered Jeep truck, and it does fine.

I've seen some crappy aluminum radiators, but PRC turns out a very nice product.  Here is the one I just bought for my T. I ordered it with the shroud uncut, and plan to run a 16 inch SPAL.


Don

47 ragtop

I also had a PRC aluminum radiator in my last 47 chevy w/350 .060 over. I think it cooled better than any copper radiator that I ever had including a walker. However in a car like a 32-34 w/radiator exposed thru  the grille I would use a walker strictly for the looks factor. The key to proper cooling is always air flow thru the radiator not the brand or construction as long it is large enough capacity.

Learpilot

I got a Walker in my 36 Dodge with a 350 bored .030. Well pleased with it never overheated even with A/C in 100 degree weather. They are nice people to work with and they answered all my questions.
Rick Harris